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  #1  
Old 02-09-2008, 01:37 PM
Jeremy5848's Avatar
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Location: Sonoma Wine Country
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OM617 Manifold Disassembly Tips?

I'm ready to remove the manifolds, turbo, and trap catalyst from my 1985 300D (W123, OM617, California version) for cleaning and replacing leaking seals. I suspect that the last time this part of the engine was apart was when the trap oxidizer was removed and replaced by the trap catalyst, long before I bought the car, which now has 239,000 miles on the original unrebuilt engine.

Other threads here have mentioned that the nuts on the exhaust manifold studs are sometimes hard to loosen; I'll use plenty of PB Blaster. It's supposed to be easier to remove the turbo and trap cat as a unit and disassemble it on the workbench. (I'll post results with pictures.)

Any other things to watch out for?

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #2  
Old 02-09-2008, 01:46 PM
TheDon's Avatar
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a 1/2" drive breaker bar with extension and a universal is your best friend

don't forget to remove the oil feed line..


oh.. its also heavy.. so lay some heavy blankets on the fender in case you drop it or w/e
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  #3  
Old 02-09-2008, 01:47 PM
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I can't remember where the turbo support bracket is on the Cali cars, but on the federal cars it is below the turbo and bolts to the engine mount arm and is a B%(# to get at and remove.

Make sure you use a 8 point socket on the manifold and turbo bolts to prevent them from rounding off.
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  #4  
Old 02-09-2008, 05:50 PM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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Turbo feed line must be removed..........all the way to the oil filter.

Turbo drain line must be removed from underneath the turbo.

As mentioned, if the turbo has the bracket underneath, it's got to be removed to allow the manifolds/turbo to come out. The nut is a real PITA and needs heat to break it loose.
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  #5  
Old 02-09-2008, 10:00 PM
Jeremy5848's Avatar
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Location: Sonoma Wine Country
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Socket to me

Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
...Make sure you use a 8 point socket on the manifold and turbo bolts to prevent them from rounding off.
Do you mean 6 point socket?
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #6  
Old 02-10-2008, 12:38 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: So. California
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I just pulled my turbo for rebuilding in December. I didn't think the turbo support bracket was that hard to deal with. I had a much harder time with the turbo drain grommet that I replaced while the turbo was out!

Don't forget to unbolt the air filter drain line from the main support bracket, get that out of the way.

The exhaust nuts came off easily for me (but it has always been a California car, no rust).
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  #7  
Old 02-10-2008, 12:47 AM
Jeremy5848's Avatar
Registered Biodiesel User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sonoma Wine Country
Posts: 8,402
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Eliel View Post
...Don't forget to unbolt the air filter drain line from the main support bracket, get that out of the way...
For good or ill, the California version does not have a drain line on the air filter housing.

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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