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Old 02-09-2008, 11:38 PM
OlBrenner's Avatar
Oil Burner
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 86
Another oil filter gasket/cooler lines/turbo drain thread

I just finished getting cleaned up from this job...

The oil canister gasket job wasn't nearly as bad as everyone made it out to be. I used a 6mm allen socket bit and a normal allen wrench, for the short center bolt I pulled the bit out of the socket and used a 1/4" wrench to turn the bit, worked well. The oil filter gasket surfaces need to be CLEAN, if you aren't spending at least an hour removing old gasket and polishing the surface then you will be redoing this job in short time.

For the oil cooler lines, I tried to get away with not jacking up the motor since the oil canister was removed, I actually got the upper line in without a hitch but then the lower line wouldn't squeeze in so I removed the motor mount and from there it was a snap. I tip I'd like to pass on regarding the motor mount, when dropping the motor back down onto the mount stick a large screw driver up through the central hole and pull on it as needed while lowering to ensure the hole is lined up for your bolt. Hand start the ends to ensure you don't cross thread, the threads are fairly fine and aluminum on the cooler end, so be careful. Loosely tighten all connections starting with the cooler ends then the canister ends, then secure the two hold downs to put the hard lines in position. Then you can fully tighten all ends.

Now the turbo drain job was much worse than I expected, still not hard just takes a lot of time. The drain tube must be unbolted from the turbo and can be done from above with a rachet and deep 13mm socket (deep socket due to the length needed, not depth if that makes sense). It takes some time to get the two tubes seperated, I recomment using a big ass screw driver to pry them apart, you will bend the tubes but for my plan that wasn't a problem. I removed the lower oil pan for this job and makes removing the lower tube much easier, just stick a socket with extension up the tube and a few hammer whacks and it's out. I decided to cut the tubes short and use some 3/4" high temp hose instead of trying to put together that retarded factory design, the drain isn't under significant pressure, so I'm not concerned...

So 10 hours of nearly non-stop (short trip to quick stop for lunch and Napa for 3/4" hose) work later, she's all back together and 100% leak free so far, tomorrow I'll power wash the undercarriage and hope for the best. Good luck all, if you have moderate mechanical knowledge and a decent collection of tools, I'd say this is a very doable job and could do it again in probably 5 hours.

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