:thumbsup:


And I guess I have the later style headliner {'85} as it doesn't appear to have perforations.....

On my '84 300td, the headliner is perforation-free and is attached by simple friction/interference fit with the door trim. Pull the door trim off and you will then be able to pull the edge of the headliner outward and down to dislodge its sewn-on plastic edge that is folded-over into a little channel (similar in arrangement to how the edges of the front seat upholstery is held). Reversing the procedure is simple.

In my case, I was looking to see how to remove the roof rack, but unfortunately, you have to remove the whole sunroof assembly to do so. :mad:

Cool, that's good to know. I removed my quarter windows for rust repair and dealt with the rear area of the headliner which is glued along the roof rail. If it uses those plastic strips toward the front, that makes it easier.

I went by PNP today and pulled the headliner down in the driver's side rear on a couple of sedans and checked out the rear sunroof drain connection point. It wasn't hard at all to get the headliner down in that area, but there was also no pressure worrying about damaging anything. I did it enough to feel comfortable at least trying it on the wagon.
BTW, both of the sedan rear sunroof drain connection points were rock solid. If mine appears solid I guess I'll leave the headliner loose and wait for a rain.
Do you think it will shrink if disconnected for a while? I might have to connect it back until rain is imminent....

Have your daughter help create a rain storm with the garden hose so you can figure it out before the next rain.:)

Well, I believe it is that idiot windshield seal after all. I think that headliner leak might have been a clogged rear driver's side drain, and was a coincidental leak to the main leak.
I removed the dash today to wait for the next rain:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...85Stuff104.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...85Stuff107.jpg

Scary looking eh? I must say, I will never again remove the dash without removing the steering wheel first. It is very easy and quick to do, and makes it so much easier.
Anyway, with the dash off I was going to wait for the next rain and go out and sit in the car, but I just pushed on the seal right in the driver's side corner and a couple drips of water came out from there.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...85Stuff109.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...85Stuff108.jpg

So, I need to have this windshield resealed and have the one in the Squash replaced. {huge cracks and mucho pitting}

I could use those A/C pods....:D

Good work there JImmy!

I had great success re-sealing my windshield with a 3 dollar tube of black Silicone and a couple of plastic picnic knives. Use one knives to open up the seal and another one to scrape all the crap outta there. Compressed air, masking tape, about 1/2 an hour and your done. Inspiration furnished by T Walmuth.

Nice work Jimmy. Thanks for taking the time for pics. Are you going to take care of anything else while you have the dash off?

***I would use Butyl Sealant to seal the windshield. Silicone Sealant causes Rust by trapping corrosive moisture as it cures. If it's used between the seal and the glass, it won't cause any rust issues but it makes it harder to replace the seals later since it glues the seal to the glass.

easy solution... when the glass guys go to replace the windshield dont tell them and when they break it.. have them vacuum out the glass shards.. or just lay a drop cloth as well as a blanket on the hood and kick out the front window :)

I had my windshield and gasket replaced and the installer smacked the old windshield with a hammer to soften it up for easy removal.:) It was a little disturbing watching some guy smash my windshield out.:eek:

I had tried sealing it about a year and a half ago. Didn't work. Funny because I can't for the life of me see how water is getting past the sealant, but it is. In buckets......
I had done the vac pods the last time I had the dash off, and they are all working right now. I had used used good diaphrams though. I am gonna Mityvac each one to make sure.
Biggest thing I wanted to do was find the mouse that died in the wagon last summer. It was a month or 6 weeks that I couldn't drive the car due to the awful smell of death!!!! :grim: It was just awful.......
Wagon is in the garage, wifes van is outside in the rain. :cool:

Alright, went by Safelite today. Internet price was gonna be $181 I believe, but that doesn't include gasket. That was gonna be another $70 bucks making the total $250! :eek:
After some courteous haggling, and mentioning that I had 2 cars to do {wagon and Squash} we settled on $200 per car, which includes seal and lifetime leak guarantee. They were also familiar with the trim strip, and said some go in real easy and some can take a couple hours of messing with. They said the glass and seal themselves were easy, just the trim strip "acted up" sometimes.
I like the folks there. It is the one on Arapaho in Richardson, TX.
Wagon will be Wednesday morning and will Schedule the other one at that time. There goes all my Christmas and birthday $$$$$........:(:(
Worth it not to have Lake Wagon in the rear floor board. ;)

That's a great price. I paid $344 for OEM gasket and new windshield with the green tint strip, installed with a sealant on the pillars that required a little oven on the truck to heat before application.

What a disaster today was!!! :(:(
The wagon has a new windshield and seal in it. I'm hopeful it will remain dry next time it rains.
OK, that will about do it for the good news. :eek:
I sat there for just a shade over 4 hours. Um, that means the installation didn't go real well.
First and foremost, this particular Safelite location will never ever install another old Mercedes windshield without an OEM seal. It went that poorly. They aren't thrilled about doing another one even with the OEM seal, but they said they would.
The trim piece did not cooperate. At all! The OEM seal has all 4 corners made into it. The aftermarket seal has the lower corners but no molded corners for the top. It made for an awful time with the trim. They had it finished after about 2 1/2 hours, but I took one look and kinda lost my cool. {and I NEVER make waves} It was that bad. I told 'em it looked like Fido's Ass, and they invited me to go sit back in the waiting area some more.:o:o The lower driver's side was not even in the seal. They had a small wedge against the rain guttering holding it down "close" to the seal.
So they worked on it for about another hour and a half and it still ain't that pretty but the trim is pretty much in the seal. Pretty much......:(
Looks fine unless you really inspect closely.
I still have my no leak guarantee at least, and will definitely use an OEM seal on the Squash.