I dont mean to hijack this thread, but I just did my shocks with new blistens. The old front shocks from shock up were:
1. shock
2. large washer
3. rubber washer
4. car frame
5. ruber washer
6. large washer
7. top nut

With the blistens, number 2 was not in either shock package. It looked as if they were meant to go from the shock to the rubber washer then the frame.

I tried to re use the old washer but I could not get the top nut on with the extra washer, the shock was not long enough.

I installed without those washers, and I assume I did the install correctly and that the blistens are just different, but I wanted to make sure with everyone here.

To answer spugeddy, no they are not compressed when they come to you. I didnt even take off the wheels or support the control arm. I just turned the wheels all the way one way, took out the bolt, turned the other way, took out the other bolt, shock came right out.

To reinstall, I just simply put in the blisten the same way as removal, with the upper shock up in the wheel well. When it came time to put the top nut on, I just simply pushed down on the shock and compressed it myself, moved over to the frame hole, and let go. Very easy.

Yes, front shocks don't need to be compressed to install, only the rear ones and only if the car is not on a lift.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

On the cars, 123's, you don't need to compress the rears either.

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83 SD

84 CD

Unless the car is jacked up very high I believe the shock needs to be compressed in order to slide up into the hole in the lower control arm and up inside the spring. A fully extended shock is too long to make the turn.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

On the front, the shocks bolted right in, rears too, straight out of the box.

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83 SD

84 CD

I was recently 'ooohing and aaahing' over the pixes of China's restoration. One of the images I remember seeing was how the owner removed and replaced his shocks...complete with pictures ...go have a look, lots of great pictures!

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1987 300TD
1984 300D
755,000 KM and going strong
BC Canada

All done... probably took me about 3 hours from seats out, to seats back in...

Not real hard, just took me awhile to get top nuts off the old shock (using wrong tools), and then the last shock, lower bolts, took me awhile to line up.

You really have to put the car up in the air, and jack the control arm up all the way so you can drop the old shock out of the spring opening.

Plus I did it all solo....

Now just one problem,.... I want new Bilsteins on the front.

Thanks all

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

From what I read you will love your new Bilsteins. China could really use some as I keep the trunk loaded with about 400-500 pounds of tools and parts.
The hardest part for me on the rear shock replacement was getting the two top nuts off of the shock and keep the piston shaft from rotating. Seems like it is 7mm, but a small wrench just can't hold it, so I had to use a slightly larger adjustable wrench.
Nice job and enjoy the shocks, and enjoy a successfully completed project.

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

I put new bils on my 77 W123, biggest challenge taking the wheels off. Still had a rattle, rear sway bar control arms, again biggest challenge, taking wheels off. If I were you, I would replace both when you put the shocks on, around $12 from Diesel Giant.
Ron

hope so... Kinda pricey, but after reading all the posts, I didn't want to be taking off cheap shocks after being diappointed and getting the Bilsteins.

The old ones that came off were BOGE (originals?) Car has 230 miles on it.

http://www.dieselbenz.info/wiki/index.php?title=Replacing_Front_%26_Rear_Shocks

check this link for a pretty good DIY...

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

Anyone have any comments on this issue?

according to the bilstein insert in the box, there are different washer, rubber, nut, setups depending on the type of shock. The SD's looked to have a different shock style, and so whether or not you were supposed to have that second washer....???

Not to sound rude, but have you changed shocks before, and did you secure the top nut first. I put it on a jack stand from below to make sure it was "all the way up" through the body hole. It fit perfectly... although my new shocks only came with one top nut...

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

The issue was not the fact that it may have not been "all the way up". What I am saying is that the old shock had a longer rod, so that the extra washer would fit. With the blistens, the top washer, as well as the top and bottom rubber washer, all fit correctly. When I added the extra washer from the old shocks (lower washer that was on the old shocks but did not come with the new blistens), the rod was not long enough to add the extra washer and still be able to get the nut on top to grab onto the shock threads.

Kind of confusing to explain, am I describing the issue clearly enough?

yeah, I am with you know. My bilstein was exactly the same size/length, etc...

It made it easier to get the old one to drop out and have enough clearance to insert the new.

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is