Got '85 300D with a front drivers side wheel that was squeaking and thumbing in relation to speed. Pulled the wheel off and the brake rotor was scraping the dust guard at the inner most point where they could contact. Decided to replace the rotor and since I'm a new owner of the car service the bearings as well. When I pulled the bearings and races from the hub there was a lot of damage to the hub that seems to be from previous owners removing the races/bearings.

I've looked at the Haynes manual and other threads about repacking grease and reinstalling the bearings, there seems to be a difference of opinion about using a digital caliper on the front bearings. Is the best idea to follow Haynes and check for play once the wheel is on and then heat in the hub once its been driven a short distance.

Does anyone know if this hub is damaged where it should be replaced, they are quite pricey new? Can a hub warp like a rotor from excessive heat from either the rotor or bad bearings? The pics are with the races removed.
Thanks for any advice.

Attached Thumbnails

   

Were the bearings noisy before you disassembled ? If not, I'd put new races in and let it ride... They'd have to been glowing to warp those hubs...

__________________
Sharing my partner's 2012 Forte 5dr SX til I find my next 123 or 126..
-
Do I miss being a service advisor ???

I'm under the impression you always replace bearing and races as a set. Never to mix old and new.

__________________
92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

That is the way it should be done. Never mix.

your gonna wanna take a stone or something to the surface the race rides on to make sure its completely flat or th bearins will wear improperly because the race wownt be level.

I was going to replace the races and bearings, both inner and outer with new but am more concerned about the condition of the hub both where the races seat on it and around that area.
The advice from validius makes sense in theory but how would I know that i haven't warn down the "race rides" unevenly?
And isn't the point of having races that are replaceable to prevent uneven ware of the bearings. The new races should be made to fit with the new bearings perfectly regardless of minute imperfections under them on the "race rides" of the hub.
Is knocking the races out with a punch enough to damage them? Under normal maintenance do you just degrease and re-grease the bearings with out removing the races?
Thanks for the advice.

A used hub from an auto salvage place might aleviate any concerns. If there is the slightest concern the races will not end up square especially. A lot cheaper than trying to deal with a problem far away from home someday and somewhat cheaper as well.
A used hub has got to be very cheap. If they have a european car interchange manual I suspect the old 114 and 115s might be identical too. Check the interchange manual if 123 types are not common in the yards near you. At least the spindal got no damage from bearing issues so its pretty easy sledding.

you may get away w/ reuse, but the one side looks pretty bad- like it would not let the race seat fully. not good. I suspect this could be the reason for failure. or contaminated grease- dirty job?

I always clean up my hubs and spindles(where the seal rides) w/ fine emery cloth. get it in a 1" wide roll at the plumbing dpt of most big box home stores

I would try for a used one. If you cant find it local, I have used Uneedapart.com. or post in classifieds- someone will help you out.

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

A machine shop should be able to clean the hub up nicely.