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#1
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IP reseal vs rebuild.
The IP on my SDL is hopeless, it still leaks and is driving me NUTS. The oil is going to eat up my motor mount again and kill more suspension stuff.
I have a good, spare 603 IP sitting in a box. What can I expect to pay to have this resealed? What does a rebuild entail versus just a reseal? The shut off lever o-ring has had it and the side plate facing the driver fender just will not seal. No plans for 300-350hp from this motor, so I have no desire to send it overseas to be played with.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#2
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1000 bucks from Gus Pfister, Pacific Fuel injection in SF is what mine cost last yr.
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#3
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Quote:
Rebuilt or resealed?
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#4
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$750-$1000 for a full rebuild. Probably not worth it if the pump is otherwise working fine. This entails full disassembly of the pump, inspection of everything, replacement of any worn parts (plus replacement of all gaskets/seals), and calibration to Bosch specs.
Under $100 to re-seal it yourself. BT, DT. The bottom O-ring is usually the worst offender. Also change the side gasket, rear governor plate gasket, ELR O-ring, vac shutoff pod O-ring, block/crankcase O-ring, and the shutoff lever shaft O-ring. The only seal you cannot replace is the L7 rack sensor O-ring, this is internal and requires full pump disassembly to replace (not DIY at all). If you are only having problems with the side plate & shutoff lever, why not buy a new side plate (assuming the original is warped), and change the shutoff lever O-ring? A third option is to find a diesel shop willing to re-seal the pump for you, and put it on the test bench for a calibration as-is, without doing a rebuild. If you can find a place willing to do this, figure $100-$250 labor, plus gaskets. Many don't want to bother and instead try to sell you a rebuild job. |
#5
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You should be able to replace it with a rebuilt for under $1000. IMO, it's not worth playing around with the old one, even if you seal the leaks it will still have some miles on it. I replaced mine at about 250K miles when it started leaking for the second time.
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