brake job question - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

benmack1 · #1 03-28-2008, 11:23 AM

Is there anything unique about a Mercedes front brake pad and rotor replacement I should be aware of? I see there are sensors but otherwise is this job about the same as it would be on my Accord for F150? I wanted to ask before I got myself into something I wasn't bargaining for. I searched but couldn't find any DIY step by step on the forum. I thought I had seen something like that before. Any advice appreciated. Have a nice day folks.

benmack1 · #2 03-28-2008, 11:24 AM

Sorry, forgot to mention. 1993, 300D 2.5L turbo is what I am needing to replace the brakes on.

stcbenz83 · #3 03-28-2008, 11:36 AM

i know on a w123 is really straight forward. Not sure on your type. But if its anything like it, make sure u replace the hardware as well when your in there i.e. anti-rattle clip and pins. also be sure to use high quality pads and rotors, as you will be plauged with a squeak. I sort of did my rear breaks, and even with shims, the back still makes noise, but then agian i only spent 50$ on new pads and rotors. Also if you have trouble finding new sensors for the pads, i suggest going to NAPA as it was the only place i could find them in a pinch. Hope this helps

pawoSD · #4 03-28-2008, 11:40 AM

Calipers are likely a different style than on the accord or F150....but overall its very simple and should be easy to figure out just by looking at it.

dieseldan44 · #5 03-28-2008, 11:49 AM

Dunno how it is on an accord or F150 - but you do have to pull out and repack the bearings on a front brake rotor replace on the W123.

The FSM article is really good, my job went without a hitch EXCEPT for getting the rotor bolts off. That warranted a visit to my neighbor who has a oxy-acet torch. The bolts laughed at my propane torch.

tobybul · #6 03-28-2008, 12:13 PM

there should not be anything mysterious about any brake job imho...

pawoSD · #7 03-28-2008, 12:27 PM

The front brakes on our caravan are probably the easiest I have done to date....pretty neat caliper design on those...I forget what they are called though.

Diesel911 · #8 03-29-2008, 12:59 AM

I would be careful to follow the manual as far as the front wheel bearing adjustment goes. I worked as a mechanic for 18 years and have adjusted a lot of wheel bearing play by feel but it did not work on my 123. I manage to get them too tight and overheated the grease in the hubs. Had to redue the job after cleaning out the grease I messed up. The manual calls for a dial indicator reading of the end play and at least for the 123 it is best to follow tha manual.

JimSmith · #9 03-29-2008, 01:18 AM

After the W123 series the front brake disc is no longer integral with the wheel bearing housing. It is held on by an Allen head screw and the bolts that hold the wheel on the hub.

The calipers are actually easier to manipulate than the W123 on the W201 and W124. The caliper is released from the spindle support structure and pivots up out of the way. You still have to push the piston back in, and I still do this with a hose connected to the bleed screw with the bleed screw opened. Flush the fluid out while you are working the brakes. It gets old and corrosive in use over a year or two.

I don't have the manual in front of me or a caliper on a car so I can't give you a detailed description. But it is pretty intuitive and obvious. Jim

sixto · #10 03-29-2008, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

The front brakes on our caravan are probably the easiest I have done to date....pretty neat caliper design on those...I forget what they are called though.

I call them crap. Just because it's easy to replace pads and rotors doesn't mean you should have to do it every 15-20K miles!

Sixto
87 300D

Diesel911 · #11 03-29-2008, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimSmith

After the W123 series the front brake disc is no longer integral with the wheel bearing housing. It is held on by an Allen head screw and the bolts that hold the wheel on the hub.

The calipers are actually easier to manipulate than the W123 on the W201 and W124. The caliper is released from the spindle support structure and pivots up out of the way. You still have to push the piston back in, and I still do this with a hose connected to the bleed screw with the bleed screw opened. Flush the fluid out while you are working the brakes. It gets old and corrosive in use over a year or two.

I don't have the manual in front of me or a caliper on a car so I can't give you a detailed description. But it is pretty intuitive and obvious. Jim

Thanks for the info my only experience is with 123. Odd story: when I bought my car I found a brand new in box set of front rotors. I looked at the ones on the car and it had new brake pads but the rotors were NG. I guess the PO was fixing what he could prior to the sale but balked at changing the front rotors due to having to remove the whole hub to change the rotor.

benmack1 · #12 03-29-2008, 06:40 PM

Thanks for the comments. The job is done. As everyone said, pretty simple and intuitive. Definitely easier on the 124 than the 123 it sounds. No need to pull hubs off to get to the rotors. Just a set screw. No problem save getting one of the rotors broken loose. The right side fell off basically, no problem with what to do. The drivers front took a little persuasion but was just rusted a bit. I think they are original rotors on a car built in july 1992 with 79K on them but no major issues. The pads are likely a 2nd set (or 3rd) but the rotors were in bad shape. Very easy job and definitely easier than my F150 or Honda (not that those are particularly tough). Used a C-clamp to pull the cylinder back and all went smoothly. I have a nice firm pedal and smooth stopping now. Thanks again. Great forum!!