HELP!! Left tool on crank pulley and it REMOVED the bolt when I turned on the car! - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

t walgamuth · #16 05-04-2008, 03:26 PM

200 ft lb is not that much. its a force of 200 # applied 1' from the axle. or 100 at 2', so thats not too hard to do.

Tom W

cphilip · #17 05-04-2008, 09:24 PM

I don't suppose this will help but let me relate an old Single banger bikers trick to tighten the Flywheel onto the crank. It might could be applied if someone could find a way to do it. We introduce a short piece of nice cotton rope into the chamber (not sure if could be through a Injector hole or something? We always stick it in the Spark plug hole) and this binds the Piston before it comes over the top but cushions it, and stops the crank and holds it. Now... we are normally trying or like 50 -75 ft Pounds here so I don't know what kind of stress this is going to put on the Rod but... it does stop the crank from turning... and it does cushion the piston and then the rope is just pulled out.

Not sure its applicable for these... but I just came to mind.

pawoSD · #18 05-04-2008, 09:43 PM

I think what I am going to do is tighten it as best I can, then take it on over to the dealer (I think it will survive an 8.5 mile drive) and have them torque it to spec....then I don't have to worry about it....nor do I have the tools to tighten it properly....my 1/2 drive torque wrench only goes up to 150ft/lb.

Sound good?

My craftsman 1/2" drive socket wrench + my deep socket were what was on the engine at the time. It would appear that first it hung there spinning on the bolt, then the fan conveniently flipped the ratchet direction switch, and it slammed against the A/C compressor and undid the bolt. Voila.

Never, ever, will I leave a tool on the engine again by accident. I have new methods now. (all tools removed even if I am coming right back to it)

rrgrassi · #19 05-04-2008, 09:48 PM

Were you adjusting your valves?

I remove the fan and shroud when doing the valves so that I can turn the engine from up top. Keeps me from leaving the breaker bar and socket attached.

pawoSD · #20 05-04-2008, 09:52 PM

No, sadly I was just rotating it by hand to make sure there was enough clearance between the crank pin and tach sensor.

tangofox007 · #21 05-04-2008, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Sound good?

You could buy yourself a 250 ft/lb 1/2" drive torque wrench instead of handing you money over to the dealer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Never, ever, will I leave a tool on the engine again by accident. I have new methods now. (all tools removed even if I am coming right back to it)

Any time I create a potential hazard, I lock my keys in my tool box as a reminder. A few weeks ago, that saved me from doing exactly what you did.

babymog · #22 05-04-2008, 10:09 PM

Kind of off-topic, but isn't that more than the max. torque spec of the engine? If the wrench was already against something to not allow inertia into the equation, it seems like it wouldn't even have cranked.

Sounds like the tools conspired against you.

Was the crank sensor part of the weekend's used-parts booty?

tangofox007 · #23 05-04-2008, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

Kind of off-topic, but isn't that more than the max. torque spec of the engine? If the wrench was already against something to not allow inertia into the equation, it seems like it wouldn't even have cranked.

Using the starter to intentionally loosen the crank bolt (with a breaker bar wedged against the deck) is a fairly common practice.

pawoSD · #24 05-04-2008, 10:30 PM

The ratchet was hanging down and set to turn the engine, meaning the engine started, and it was hanging down freewheeling for a second, then the fan conveniently flipped the direction switch on the ratchet, it spun around and locked on something, undid the bolt (assume the engine was on at the point it happened) and quickly unbolted it and dropped onto the floor....nothing was actually damaged, it just perfectly removed the bolt!

I still think I will have the dealer do it tomorrow.

Any risks tightening it as best I can and driving for 8-10 miles as gently as possible? If I get off for $250 or less I will be a happy guy.

pawoSD · #25 05-04-2008, 11:28 PM

Update:

I just went out and studied the area where the ratchet was "flung" around and jammed to release the bolt, but if this had actually happened, it would have taken out the transmission cooler line on the passenger side, as well as likely done some real damage to the water pump pulley and fan....but there is no damage to be found!

Its like it just easily came loose when I started it......I don't get it! Maybe the bolt wasn't very tight to begin with??

What actually happens if that bolt is loose or missing and you are running the engine/driving around?

Will I be ok snugging it as tight as I can and bringing it to the dealer? I don't want to have a disaster happen on the way.....

Hatterasguy · #26 05-05-2008, 12:00 AM

The dealer is going to charge you like $100 to get it in the bay, just buy a larger torque wrench.

Crank the living crap out of it for now.

pawoSD · #27 05-05-2008, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

The dealer is going to charge you like $100 to get it in the bay, just buy a larger torque wrench.

Crank the living crap out of it for now.

With my tools I can get it to 150-160ish ft/lbs....still 40ish away from where it needs to be.

I see I can get the torque wrench I need on Northern tools for like $70.....however, that doesn't solve my problem of how I keep the engine stationary while torquing it....I want to be able to do it without removing anything else (namely crank pulley)......and I'd really like to not have to remove the starter either.

The way I see it, I can either get the bigger torque wrench ($70ish) 3/4 to 1/2 adapter (another $10-15) and then get the flywheel locking tool from the dealer (who knows how expensive.....)....go through the pain and effort to do all that, and then never need the tools ever again.....kinda (also) a waste of money. I'd rather drag it in, eat cookies and coffee and watch the plasma for an hour or two.....pay my $100-150, and be done with my mistake.......sounds good to me anyways. I will be calling them tomorrow for a quote on what they would charge to get that torqued properly....

kerry · #28 05-05-2008, 12:07 AM

Another choice is to buy or rent a torque multiplier and use your existing torque wrench. I'm not sure there's enough room to fit a torque multiplier in there but there could be.

pawoSD · #29 05-05-2008, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

Another choice is to buy or rent a torque multiplier and use your existing torque wrench. I'm not sure there's enough room to fit a torque multiplier in there but there could be.

It would probably require removal of the radiator and fan.......and that still doesn't solve the issue of keeping the engine stationary while torquing....

Bajaman · #30 05-05-2008, 08:45 AM

I hate to admit it, but I did the exact same thing a while back. I just finished setting the valve clearances, and buttoned everything up. I started her up and heard a strange clicking from the front. I immediately shut it down. Luckily nothing was damaged. A real wake-up call!!!

Just jamb a punch in one of the holes of the flywheel (there are six big ones) and tighten it down. Probably take less time than taking it to the dealer, and a lot lighter on the pocketbook.