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#1
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1987 W124 300D Turbo w/ leaky fountain of an injector
I've decided to start a new thread since my my first 'project" thread has been hijacked :roll:
Anyways, i had a slightly leaky injector (the one near the firewall w/ the braided, plugged end), but after a diesel purge, it is spewing a small fountain against the firewall: ![]() i read a few threads here and there and most people say to get new braided lines. but everyone else's symptoms seemed to be wet braided lines. could the internals (seals/rings) inside that injector be damaged or worn? and what effect, if any, did the diesel purge have on this? once this is fixed, I'll have a better idea of what kind of vehicle i truly own. right now, i think its the biggest dog of a car that has a turbo on it! ![]() Thanks, Bob |
#2
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The braided line is so cheap its not even worth worrying about the cost, just replace it. If your leak continues (and I think it will) I would suggest removing all 6 injectors and having them cleaned and refurbished. They're 20 years old now.
Also, check that all the clips that secure that injector line to the engine are in good order - on older cars you find that they're brittle and broken, or missing completely. This allows the line to vibrate more than it should, which eventually increases the chance of leakage around the connectors. |
#3
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It looks to me like you have a leak on the high pressure line, so braided lines won't help that problem. I would replace them at some point though. It is probably the easiest job you can do on the car.
Have you taken the high pressure line off or tried tightening it. I'm not sure what the torque spec is on those lines. I would think it's possible that the purge loosened up what ever was keeping it from leaking. If you car is a big dog you have other issues. If you go to the home page: http://www.peachparts.com/ and use the Google search to search this site, you will find information on making your car into a greyhound. Chris
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#4
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Quote:
The return lines are not the problem. What's most likely happened is the fuel line has cracked. I had the identical problem on #6 and had to drive it on 5 for 150 miles. Line cracked right in two pieces just below the retaining nut. Remove the retaining nut and check the line carefully. |
#5
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To my eye, it does not look like the metal fuel line attaches to your injector at a 90 degree angle. It may not be seating correctly.
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#6
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guys,
as always, thanks to all for being so helpful. i'm going to give it a check later tonight when its cooler. and yes, if those braided lines are cheap to swap out, might as well do it when i get the parts. on another note, looks like i'm going to have to give my mercedes more TLC and some $$$ than i originally budgeted >:-| Bob |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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craig,
indeed! ![]() ![]() bob |
#9
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Quote:
Chris
__________________
1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#10
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Just messing with you.
![]() It's just part of the deal when you drive 20 year old cars, wait until you get into the 300+K mile range. ![]() |
#11
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Quote:
Chris, that is the best news i've heard all weekend re "not too much money". ![]() i've always been leery of european cars b/c some of my friends whove owned bmws and mercedes always complained about parts pricing and service experiences. now when i crack that nut loose, i'm guessing that the vacuum pressure will be released and some fuel will come out. to repressurize, is it just a matter of screwing that nut back on until its almost tight, firing the engine up until you see fuel coming out, and then retightening it? i mean, no matter b/c it will leak, but when i get the right part(s), is that the sequence to repressurize the line? thanks, bob |
#12
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The forum exists solely because of the sale of parts. So, if the forum has helped you.......consider paying something back by calling Roy or Phil. They can get any part that Rusty can order.
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#13
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And you can't beat Phil for customer service!
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT ![]() 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" ![]() '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#14
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ack! i have gotten many forums and parts dealers all mixed up in my head! ok, i'll give phil and roy a shot. excuse the noob mistake!
![]() bob |
#15
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I have to agree about Phil and Roy. The prices seem to be in line with other sources and their expertise on these old diesels can not be matched. If you are like me and don't know the exact name of the part, Phil and Roy will know exactly which "thingie" you are talking about when you try to describe it to them. And they will also tell you which parts go along with the job you are about to do...a good way to avoid that 5 day shipping wait when in the middle of a repair job.
As far as bleeding the lines when you remove the nut...you don't have to do anything. The 603 is self bleeding, just torque them and crank the engine. It may take a little longer than usual but it will work. I would try to loosen that injector hard line and re-torque it. It just may fix that leak.
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1987 300TDT ~264,000 miles |
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