So I've been working at getting my engine mounts off. I managed to get the two larger bolts out from underneath, but I just don't think I'm going to be able to manage to get the two smaller 6mm off to tops. I'm afraid of stripping them out because the access to them is just so bad. I was thinking of cutting the backing off of the bolts to free them, buying new bolts and putting new nuts on the back with some threadlocker. It's either that or going to a mechanic to see if he can get the bolts loose for me then replacing the mounts myself. Has anyone else done anything like this to get the 6mm bolts off their engine mounts?

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1983 Stick Shift 240D (223K)

You have a 240D, access to the 6mm bolts should be very easy.

I sprayed mine with penetrating oil and then used an L shaped 6mm hex key to loosen the them. Use a pick tool to get any dirt out of the hex head and make sure the key is seated all the way in. I used a ratchet handle to give the hex key a few impacts to loosen the bolt.

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Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

If you haven't already, try jacking up the engine slightly and then re-try to loosen the bolts.

Mine wouldn't budge at all at first. Similar to you, the bottom ones were easy but the tops were tight as a drum. Then i raised the engine and top bolts came loose quite easily.

I've sprayed them all pretty well with WD40, two days in a row now. I'll try picking them clean and hammering the hex in a bit better.

I've also jacked and lowered the engine a few times to no avail. Access to the outside bolts is pretty good, access to the inside bolts is another story.

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1983 Stick Shift 240D (223K)

And some of this...Call them they've got an incredible deal for 1st timers.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Awesome stuff ... I use AeroKroil from KanoLabs.com but you need a Tax ID # to buy direct.

You can also buy it from Amazon.com:

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-Oil-aerosol/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1210594209&sr=8-1

WD-40 is pretty much useless, PB Blaster is only a bit better.
AeroKroil WORKS in only a few minutes.

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Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

You could support the engine by the oil pan and take the whole support arm off the engine with the engine mount attached.

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination

Would brake cleaner be any good?

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1983 Stick Shift 240D (223K)

Brake cleaner will just clean off the grease but won`t loosen the bolts.

Taking off the mount arms is one way to do it, then you will have the mount bolts right in fornt of you. it is a little more work to do. on the left side it will interfere with one of the power steering hose connections. removing it, better have a bucket to catch the ATF.

I removed mine when I was replacing the oil cooler lines, looked logical. did create some extra work with the ATF all leaking our and having to quickly get the pan to catch the oil.

I helped JIMMYJOE replace his mounts, think it took us 4 hrs to do the job. It`s a simple job, just a PITA to do. Just make sure to dig out the grime that is in the bolt so the hex fit all the way in or you have the chance of rounding out the hole.

I use a little anti sieze on the bolts, so next time it is a little easier. you guys in the salt belt, this should help.

All of us out here in the peanut gallery will be cheering you on

Charlie ☺

I just reread your first post, you want to cut off your bolts on the back side. I don`t understand how to do this if you can`t even get to the bolts in the first place to loosen them. those little bolts screw into the frame of the car. are you talking about on the bottom side? there are no nuts on the bottom side to cut off. and if you use thread locker on the bolts, it will just make it harder to remove next time.

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Yeah, I was afraid that they're part of the frame. I cleaned up the bottom pretty well, but wasn't sure exactly what they were. I'll go give it another shot in a bit.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

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1983 Stick Shift 240D (223K)

"Should be easy" Easy to say...

Those top bolts are tricky. The most important thing is to make sure you are in square, and all the way. Charmalu and I chewed on those puppys for awhile

I think the way we got one side was with a allen socket and long extension; with the motor jacked up ever so slightly, giving just enough space to work around the IP side, to get the tool in. Incredibly tight working space...

That jacking the engine thing up is subtle too; seems you want just a little bit to take pressure off.

When we thought the hard work as over, and finally time to bolt down the new bolts (top first, then large bottoms), we found the holes would not line up. the solution in my case was to drive the car a bit to align them! Others have reported just lowering the engine and starting and putting into gear helped them. Of course, you want to be real careful your power steering belt doesn't chew through an oil cooler line...

Good luck! Don't give up; they will come, just don't rush and strip.

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

upon reflection, I think we got most loose with allen socket and ratchet, and got em back in with an extension. Try to get the allen socket in a nice clean hole first, tap down to ensure you reach bottom, then add ratchet once you are in good...

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

My problem was loosening the bottom allen bolt - hole thru the bottom of the engine cradle. I couldn't budge the damn thing. I abondened trying to change them at the time I did the oil cooler hoses. 126 chassis tho..

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Sharing my partner's 2012 Forte 5dr SX til I find my next 123 or 126..
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Do I miss being a service advisor ???