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  #1  
Old 05-19-2008, 06:37 PM
mrdjsk's Avatar
Douglas
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 190
Loose glovebox and dash wood

Hello,

Just bought my first 123 — a 1983 300
D Turbo with 171K on it. Classic US-spec "tank" in light metallic blue with blue Tex. I have many questions, but one of the first that comes to mind concerns the glovebox. When open, it sags too much to shut without help aligning the lock. Also, the wood slivers on the front of the glovebox are loose. I'm guessing these are classic 123 foibles, so I wanted to ask what the classic fixes are.

Thank you all in advance... and thanks for a fantastic forum.

Douglas Kim
W123 & W114

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  #2  
Old 05-19-2008, 09:43 PM
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Leadfoot
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Apple Valley CA
Posts: 301
Sag = Live with it. They all sag somewhat.
Wood = Gorilla Glue.
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  #3  
Old 05-20-2008, 02:25 AM
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KHAAAAAAN-gress
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Wichita, Ks
Posts: 5,187
Gotta love the sag.

Don't tell anyone, but I've used a little glue on the trim as well.
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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!
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  #4  
Old 05-20-2008, 03:12 AM
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Location: Cameron Park CA
Posts: 1,875
silicone works great on the trim. But make sure you clean all the foam glue that was original off of the trim. No glue will adhere to this and the trim will pop right back up in a week
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  #5  
Old 05-20-2008, 09:58 PM
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Man of the fire
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Shingletown,Ca
Posts: 941
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbobenz View Post
silicone works great on the trim. But make sure you clean all the foam glue that was original off of the trim. No glue will adhere to this and the trim will pop right back up in a week
Yup, I used silicone caulk after cleaning up mine, worked well.

The sagging glovebox is common, my experience with it is that the inner plastic half of the door tends to break out around the small spanner type nuts at the hinges, the door travel straps are secured to the inner piece, so they tend to pull apart because of this, and the broken plastic lets the hinges get loose in the door so it walks around on it's adjustment. I used larger washers to clamp mine together again at the hinge area, with a lockwasher inside each hole under the nut to ensure it grabbed tight on the hinges. So far so good. Also if your latch tends to pop out of joint & stick sideways if you pull it too far or the wrong way when opening it, chances are the snapring has walked up on the plastic pivot shaft molded on the inside of the inner half, sometimes reseating it works, other times if the plastic has mushed you need to shim it with a washer under it. The idea is to hold the latch part flush against the inner door half so the spring cannot pop out of position.
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64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale
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  #6  
Old 05-21-2008, 08:50 PM
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Douglas
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 190
Many thanks.

Thank you all for your input. Incredible community here. I'm impressed by the fanatacism and general spirit of helpfulness.
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  #7  
Old 05-21-2008, 09:15 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central, NJ
Posts: 246
Welcome mrdjsk!

You'll find as I have that the members of this board are knowledgeable and anxious to help. One of the things that distinguishes this board apart from others is the gentlemanly nature and good humor displayed by its members. Moderators rarely have to intervene. And don't be intimidated by the "Do a search before you ask" gnomes. (They say that to everyone.) Just ask away.

There really is something special here, and I hope it never changes.

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'79 300D, "Liesel von Diesel", 235K

I kid proofed the house....but they still get in
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