|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
85 300D stuck at full heat-monovalve or "flap" or what?
85 300D is stuck at full heat-is the monovalve or "flap" or what stuck? Fuse 14 blows over and over and I can't find the short.
No heat modulation In order to get rid of heat I was thinking of bypassing my heater core for the summer. I just want to make sure its not one of those Flaps that is stuck. Is this condition (Full heat) caused by monovolave or flap setting or other? |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
You most likely have a hole in the mono-valve diaphragm. You need a mono-valve rebuild kit. $46 for the rebuild kit. 10 minute job.
You can inspect the mono-valve by unscrewing the 4 little screws and pulling the assembly out. Probably have a tear in the rubber. You'll lose a bit of coolant doing this so find a spot other than your new driveway that was just installed two weeks ago.
__________________
84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000 84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary) 2002 Explorer EB (wife's) |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Quote:
That's not your primary problem. Last edited by tangofox007; 05-30-2008 at 12:10 PM. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
A torn monovalve diaphragm will typically cause the heater to not work, especially at higher engine rpm's.
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Check for voltage across the monovalve. As stated before, the monovalve needs 12v to stay closed. The valve should have 12v constantly on one wire and use the other wire to complete the circuit to ground. I had a bad wire to mine. I had 12v into the valve, but the line from the valve to ground was bad. I had to resolder it in the CCU...
__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
If fuse 14 is blown, the isn't going to be any voltage to check!!! No need to even get the voltmeter out of the toolbox.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Thank you everybody
Thanks everyone. This is truly a 24/7 hotline unparalleled in Internet History. I will do my best to provide ansers to other's problems, but i am more of a builder and restorer and a lousy troubleshooter.
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I solved it tonight the Monovalve was stuck!
I solved it tonight the Monovalve was stuck!
My ohms reading was correct and at spec. I had read my DVM incorrectly at .005 ohms vice 5 ohms. I opened up the monovavlve and practically had to use a prybar to get it out! The rubber cup was fresh because i replaced it 2 years ago. I cycled it a few times with a 12 V power supply. Then I put it back in. My AC came to life! |
Bookmarks |
|
|