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  #1  
Old 05-30-2008, 10:22 AM
Coming back from burnout
 
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85 300D stuck at full heat-monovalve or "flap" or what?

85 300D is stuck at full heat-is the monovalve or "flap" or what stuck? Fuse 14 blows over and over and I can't find the short.

No heat modulation

In order to get rid of heat I was thinking of bypassing my heater core for the summer.

I just want to make sure its not one of those Flaps that is stuck.

Is this condition (Full heat) caused by monovolave or flap setting or other?

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  #2  
Old 05-30-2008, 11:15 AM
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Location: So. California
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You most likely have a hole in the mono-valve diaphragm. You need a mono-valve rebuild kit. $46 for the rebuild kit. 10 minute job.

You can inspect the mono-valve by unscrewing the 4 little screws and pulling the assembly out. Probably have a tear in the rubber. You'll lose a bit of coolant doing this so find a spot other than your new driveway that was just installed two weeks ago.
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  #3  
Old 05-30-2008, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrameow View Post
85 300D is stuck at full heat-is the monovalve or "flap" or what stuck? Fuse 14 blows over and over and I can't find the short.

No heat modulation

In order to get rid of heat I was thinking of bypassing my heater core for the summer.

I just want to make sure its not one of those Flaps that is stuck.

Is this condition (Full heat) caused by monovolave or flap setting or other?
The monovalve must have power to remain closed. With fuse 14 blown, the monovalve will open to the full heat position.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrameow View Post
In order to get rid of heat I was thinking of bypassing my heater core for the summer.
That should be effective. Plugging a heater hose might be easier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrameow View Post
I just want to make sure its not one of those Flaps that is stuck.
That's not your primary problem.

Last edited by tangofox007; 05-30-2008 at 12:10 PM.
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  #4  
Old 05-30-2008, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Eliel View Post
You most likely have a hole in the mono-valve diaphragm.
A torn monovalve diaphragm will typically cause the heater to not work, especially at higher engine rpm's.
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  #5  
Old 05-30-2008, 11:59 AM
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Check for voltage across the monovalve. As stated before, the monovalve needs 12v to stay closed. The valve should have 12v constantly on one wire and use the other wire to complete the circuit to ground. I had a bad wire to mine. I had 12v into the valve, but the line from the valve to ground was bad. I had to resolder it in the CCU...
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  #6  
Old 05-30-2008, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels View Post
Check for voltage across the monovalve.
If fuse 14 is blown, the isn't going to be any voltage to check!!! No need to even get the voltmeter out of the toolbox.
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  #7  
Old 05-30-2008, 05:23 PM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
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Thank you everybody

Thanks everyone. This is truly a 24/7 hotline unparalleled in Internet History. I will do my best to provide ansers to other's problems, but i am more of a builder and restorer and a lousy troubleshooter.
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  #8  
Old 05-31-2008, 01:36 AM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
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I solved it tonight the Monovalve was stuck!

I solved it tonight the Monovalve was stuck!

My ohms reading was correct and at spec. I had read my DVM incorrectly at .005 ohms vice 5 ohms. I opened up the monovavlve and practically had to use a prybar to get it out! The rubber cup was fresh because i replaced it 2 years ago.

I cycled it a few times with a 12 V power supply.

Then I put it back in. My AC came to life!

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