After putting the job off for over a week, I finally put in my new Monarch nozzles. After getting the car to start up, it began smoking more than I have ever seen a car do (white smoke, at that), ran VERY loudly and with a worse shake than before. Also it would die lest the throttle were not pressed down. Could it be possible the fuel's psi spray went up when the fresh nozzles were put in, and this is the result of too great of psi?

Let me know of your thoughts on this, as I am clueless and just want to hear my diesel running again! I miss it quite a lot already...

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1981 300SD, odometer stopped at 188,000

Start your car, and crack the FI fitting of each injector at the nozzle....until you get fuel and no air or bubbles.....re-tighten.....it should settle down after all cylinders are getting the same fuel.......

SB

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

Did you have the injectors pop tested and checked for spray pattern after you put the new nozzles in?

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Check this from a previous thread.

This is from Monark Diesel's technical department. (I think I translated it all correctly)

TESTING AND ADJUSTING
Nozzle needle and body are lap fitted to each other and should never be mismatched.
Testing should be carried out with clean diesel fuel oil or test oil meeting ISO 4113.
NEVER USE GASOLINE FOR TESTING! EXPLOSION OR FIRE COULD RESULT.
Keep hands away from nozzle spray. It can penetrate deep into the skin and and destroy the tissues. Fuel oil in the blood stream can cause blood poisoning.

Clean all nozzles.
Remove special conservation oil completely from new nozzles by washing them in clean gasoline.
Clean used nozzles of soot and carbon and likewise wash in gasoline. Allow them to dry then dip nozzles in clean fuel oil and insert them into injector body.

Testing.
When assembling, hand center and tighten before tightening with a wrench. Cap nut torques: 'P' nozzle 30-50Nm, 'S' nozzle 50-90Nm, 'T' nozzle 80-100Nm (verify for your specific application)
Verify nozzle is not jammed by connecting to the tester with the gauge stopcock OFF.
Operate the pump lever several times, forcefully about 6-8 pumps per second. If the needle is not jammed, the nozzle should chatter with a shrill whistle. If not, loosen the cap nut, rotate the nozzle and tighten. NOTE: hole type nozzles (IE: SD 240) will not chatter like pintle type nozzles even when the lever is pumped quickly.

Opening (pop) pressure.
Pressure is specific to your engine. Adjust it accordingly. It is sometimes stamped on the injector body.
CAUTION: WHEN PRESSURE GAUGE IS BEING USED increase and decrease pressure slowly or gauge damage may result. Slowly increase the pressure until slight chattering, read indicated pressure. Turn adjusting screw or change shims as necessary. When the lever is operated slowly (1-2 pumps per second) all nozzles should spray/chatter. However, the spray need not be even or well atomized.

Leakage test.
Operate lever until gauge indicates 20 bar (285 psi) below specified pressure. The nozzle does not leak if no drop of fuel falls from the nozzle in 10 seconds.

Chatter and spray pattern.
Close the gauge stopcock. Spray pattern is observed when the lever is pumped rapidly (4-6 per second.)
The pattern for pintle and throttle nozzles should be even and well atomized. For hole type nozzles, full and finely atomized.

Cleanliness is essential when testing. The test area should be free of dust and dirt. Only use clean diesel fuel or test oil.
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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!

I already bled the air out through the hard return lines, until fuel came out the top of each injector.

I didn't have any extra money to get them tested, and I figured just throwing them in is still an improvement from far-worn out Bosch nozzles. I've considered buying a pop tester and reselling afterwards, since I don't want to pay hundreds of dollars for something used once or twice.

Perhaps that will be the chosen route, thanks again everyone!

-geoff

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1981 300SD, odometer stopped at 188,000

I don't think the preservative oil on the nozzles needs gasoline to wash off. I gave my new Bosio nozzles a quick bath in clean diesel fuel before assembly and that seemed to wash the oil off completely. And any air in the injector lines would get purged relatively quickly after the engine starts. Did you replace the heat shields and install the new ones correctly? Did you maintain good cleanliness during the whole process? If the answer is yes to both, then I'd just check for leaks and take the car for a brief run and see if it gets better.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

Yeah I got 4 of the 5 heat shields out, one simply wouldn't budge. I bought a new screwdriver that would fit in there, yet is thick enough I don't need to worry about it breaking off into the engine. And yes I did get them in correctly, I made very sure of that. I'll try taking it out for a spin tomorrow morning and hopefully it will improve.

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1981 300SD, odometer stopped at 188,000

I think that if you only swap the nozzles and everthing comes out OK you have really beat the odds. If you swap the nozzles and did not one at a time take the injector apart and clean it before you assembled it there is a high chance of getting dirt inside. If during you handeling of the spray nozzles you mixed up the nozzle pintals and put them into a nozzle it did not come out of the pintle will not seal in the seating area and may even be too tight and stick in the nozzle.
When you install new spray nozzles I believe the whole injector should be rebuilt and tested properly. This is actually more economical in the long run in time and trouble and maybe in money also. Ounce the injectors are set up as long as you fuel is clean and if you IP timing is OK you should be good for some where aproching 50,000-100,000 miles.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I know there are guys out there who live for these mods but I have to say I bought a set of bosch rebuilt injectors right off the shelf and put them into my old 240D. They worked perfectly out of the box and cleared up a nasty bit of nailing the car had which had been confirmed by having the old injectors tested (caused by low pop pressure and poor spray in 3 of the 4 injectors).

The new set cost less than $160 after I got $17 back for the cores on each. No muss, no fuss, and they came with new heat shields too.

I think these are probably the Indian rebuilds everyone bemoans...I can only say for me they worked fine and I did the whole replacement in about 30 minutes.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Folks,

I had assumed that when the gent referred to his "nozzles" he meant the entire injector......

NEVER SWAP NEEDLES AND GUIDES.....NEVER!!!!!!

I can quote many sources......that is one of the biggest no-no's in Diesel maintenance.....

as far as pop testing goes....find a local FI Shop in your area....I have mine done for $5.00 per injector......test only.....if a repair is needed it will cost more, obviously......

If you go to a Bosch Certified Shop....most likely they will have the heat shields in stock and sell them to you way cheap....as well as any parts for your OE injectors.....there is a link in here someplace....do a search inder my ID...

I highly recommend that anyone fooling around with their FI system at least visit a FI Calibration Shop.....ask then to show you why it's best that you use their services......also if you do have your injectors popped, ask if you can watch.....

The other humongous No-No is.....never even think that you can swap plungers and barrels inside the Injection Pump...!!

SB

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

why don`t you build your own pop tester?

www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=224334

charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I feel every thing was kept sufficiently clean, as I practically obsess with all in my life (OCD status.) The injectors were filthy when I initially disassembled them, and made very sure they were free of all things foreign.

I'll look into making the home pop tester, some of the supplies may be difficult to track down in this town but I'll give it a try.

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1981 300SD, odometer stopped at 188,000

I've done that several times and pop-tested the injectors afterward and the pop pressures were still within spec and closer than a random set of remanufactured Bosch injectors. With the Indian Bosch nozzles I'd have some worry about the spray pattern if I couldn't test each nozzle, but I think the chance of Monark nozzles spraying bad out of the box is pretty low.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

I think that if you exchange a Bosch nozzle for a Bosch nozzle the dimensions are more likely to match than if I exchange Bosch for another makers nozzles like Bosio or Monark. The point I was trying to make is that when you exchange nozzles you cannot assume or expect the Pop Pressure being the same.
I have done things too to save money that I should not have done to; but some times it has caused me way more trouble than If I had done it right the first time.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

You should have had your old ones tested, chances are most of them were probably fine.

Taking injectors apart with no way to test them is a bad idea, as you have found out. Maybe you can put your old nozzels back on and hope you get lucky. The only real solution is to find a diesel shop and have them fix whatever got messed up. Sounds like you didn't assemble them right or something.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200