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  #1  
Old 10-04-2008, 11:18 AM
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Question Is this Normal for SDL/SEL W126?

I would just like to know if this is still driveable or in OK condition that I don't have to do to much maintenance. Diagnosis? I am asking about the Ride height because I have some inner tire wear. Kind of like a "Toe-in" kind of thing.

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Is this Normal for SDL/SEL W126?-300sdl-wides.jpg   Is this Normal for SDL/SEL W126?-300sdl-rear-wheels.jpg   Is this Normal for SDL/SEL W126?-300sdl-rears.jpg  

Last edited by Abadjay; 10-04-2008 at 12:24 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-04-2008, 11:20 AM
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Looks fine to me...
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  #3  
Old 10-04-2008, 11:21 AM
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Of course I was looking at the ride height. Is that what you're asking about or overall?
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  #4  
Old 10-04-2008, 11:32 AM
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um, what's the question?
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  #5  
Old 10-04-2008, 12:24 PM
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Oh, no.....

Oh, NO. Your car is siting way too low and it is going to require about $5000 worth of repairs to the trailing arms, springs, shocks, rubber mounts, etc.

Where is this car? I'll come pick it up personally.



Okay, just teasing. It might be sitting just a tad low.....but still quite driveable. Pretty car, too.
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  #6  
Old 10-04-2008, 12:25 PM
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Toe-in

Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
um, what's the question?
There's some premature Tire wear on the inside of the rear tires. Is this a definite symptom?
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  #7  
Old 10-04-2008, 01:15 PM
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Have you had the car for a while? How long has the tire been in that corner of the car? Maybe there's a front end problem and someone rotated the tires. Maybe those wheels were on another car until recently.

There are some guidelines in this thread on what ride height is and should be -

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=124073

Measure from the center of the wheel to the fender lip so you can compare ride height among 126s with different diameter wheels.

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  #8  
Old 10-04-2008, 01:26 PM
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I'd be more concerned with all the oil leaks up front.
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  #9  
Old 10-04-2008, 01:37 PM
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Has anyone seen a sagging W126 that was successfully repaired? I can't recall ever seeing one...except for the one, but the guy had to order custom mad springs... :\
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  #10  
Old 10-04-2008, 02:05 PM
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the factory springs could be tired and time for some new springs.

Brian C. had some made for his car from coil spring specialties for a decent price
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  #11  
Old 10-04-2008, 02:33 PM
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Exclamation Interesting

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Have you had the car for a while? How long has the tire been in that corner of the car? Maybe there's a front end problem and someone rotated the tires. Maybe those wheels were on another car until recently.

There are some guidelines in this thread on what ride height is and should be -

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=124073

Measure from the center of the wheel to the fender lip so you can compare ride height among 126s with different diameter wheels.

Sixto
87 300D
Interesting that you should say that because I bought the car at 165k miles from an old lady who was, for lack of better terms, rich. Always brought to the dealer for inspection and oil change.

When I bought it, I notice that the spare tire was on the driver's side-front (I noticed this because the tire had a different brand name and different treads). So I thought to myself, "Why is it like this? I'll put the orignal tire back so that all the treads are the same."

I also noticed after installing what was the original tire...that the back tires had more tread. HENCE, I rotated the tires. The ride height has always been the same and now I'm at almost 177k.

Could that spare tire have been there for a reason? Original wheel with the matching tread had no inflation troubles, but I did notice that after I installed it, I drove on the highway about 60-65 MPH and started to wiggle quite a bit on the steering wheel until I slowed down.

Something is not right....ride height? Wheel Balance? I just went outside to measure and it's currently at about 25.25 inches

When I rotated the tires, I noticed no wear. But I assume that if the back was aligned or fixed, that it would wear out evenly and not prematurely wear on the sides right?

Last edited by Abadjay; 10-04-2008 at 02:47 PM. Reason: Added thoughts...
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  #12  
Old 10-04-2008, 03:13 PM
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Lots of possible explanations for the spare. Could be as simple as a flat tire someone was too lazy to put back on the car.

I don't think you have a toe problem if the car tracks straight and there isn't cupping or sawtooth wear on the tire. What's left is a camber problem because of worn bushings and/or worn springs. It comes down to whether you'd rather throw money at the suspension or more frequent tire changes. I'd be more inclined to address the suspension if left and right rear tires show different wear patterns. If both have comparable camber wear patterns, the $2000 you'd probably have to spend getting the rear suspension back to new condition will pay for a lot of rear tires. Even more if you swap tires left for right keeping the same direction of rotation. Tire shops will laugh at you for trying that.

The first thing I'd check is the subframe bushings. There's a bracket the shape of a salt shaker at the front ends of the subframe. The round part of the bracket is just below the forward subframe bushing. There should be about 1cm gap all the way around the bushing. If there's much less than 1cm or the gap is more of a wedge, it's time for new front subframe bushings. The rear mount is at the differential. The mount consists of a rubber block with two bolts into the differential. The block floats in a rubber lined mount. The rubber lining should have a slight bump at the very bottom of the lining. Maybe 3-4mm tall. If that bump is worn flat or if the block isn't centered in the mount, you need a new mount. IIRC there's a rubber biscuit or two between the top of the differential and the subframe. Those are a PITA to get to and I don't think they have much bearing on ride height. Replacing rear subframe bushings if about a half day job.

That should restore some ride height. Then there's trailing arm bushings and springs. If you go through the trouble of replacing the springs, might as well allocate time to inspect the trailing arm bushings and replace as necessary. Oh, there's also the rubber pads the springs sit on. MB provides different thicknesses of pads identified by the number of nibs.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #13  
Old 10-04-2008, 03:35 PM
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....omg....

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Lots of possible explanations for the spare. Could be as simple as a flat tire someone was too lazy to put back on the car.

I don't think you have a toe problem if the car tracks straight and there isn't cupping or sawtooth wear on the tire. What's left is a camber problem because of worn bushings and/or worn springs. It comes down to whether you'd rather throw money at the suspension or more frequent tire changes. I'd be more inclined to address the suspension if left and right rear tires show different wear patterns. If both have comparable camber wear patterns, the $2000 you'd probably have to spend getting the rear suspension back to new condition will pay for a lot of rear tires. Even more if you swap tires left for right keeping the same direction of rotation. Tire shops will laugh at you for trying that.

The first thing I'd check is the subframe bushings. There's a bracket the shape of a salt shaker at the front ends of the subframe. The round part of the bracket is just below the forward subframe bushing. There should be about 1cm gap all the way around the bushing. If there's much less than 1cm or the gap is more of a wedge, it's time for new front subframe bushings. The rear mount is at the differential. The mount consists of a rubber block with two bolts into the differential. The block floats in a rubber lined mount. The rubber lining should have a slight bump at the very bottom of the lining. Maybe 3-4mm tall. If that bump is worn flat or if the block isn't centered in the mount, you need a new mount. IIRC there's a rubber biscuit or two between the top of the differential and the subframe. Those are a PITA to get to and I don't think they have much bearing on ride height. Replacing rear subframe bushings if about a half day job.

That should restore some ride height. Then there's trailing arm bushings and springs. If you go through the trouble of replacing the springs, might as well allocate time to inspect the trailing arm bushings and replace as necessary. Oh, there's also the rubber pads the springs sit on. MB provides different thicknesses of pads identified by the number of nibs.

Sixto
87 300D
Oh my god....$2000 for a complete restoration?...

I wish I had that money, but as far as I know, I would LOVE to do these in somewhat of a DIY fashion, but I know there are tools and stuff that I'd have to rent. If I had a friend or homie show me something or some tips to not get myself decapitated, then okay. That MP Spring Compressor sounds like a long job...

My problem is that it's not really my car, my dad bought it for me to drive around, but it's in his name and he pays for the jobs done to it. But of course we don't have money for everything...so hence we pay for the jobs done at our mechanic one bit at a time...I don't think he'll wanna hear that $2000 is the budget...but if there is some great walkthroughs out here with pictures, or a video or live friend, that would be the best! Unfortunately I can only deal with words for the most part...and my dad is one of those people who are "Just have the mechanics do it" kind of people.

Any suggestions on what's the easiest and/or best DIY to improve this tire mess?
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  #14  
Old 10-04-2008, 04:08 PM
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I suggest spending $75 on an alignment.

If you have other issues like worn suspension parts the alignment guys will not align it and will ask for it to be repaired before doing the alignment. That way you'll get a free suspension analysis.

Then if it passes mustard and all is well, get dad to spring for a nice new set of Michelins.

On a car that has nto been driven much by an old lady it probably has some issues form old hard and possibly belt slipped tires.

Tom W
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  #15  
Old 10-04-2008, 04:22 PM
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Alignment

Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I suggest spending $75 on an alignment.

If you have other issues like worn suspension parts the alignment guys will not align it and will ask for it to be repaired before doing the alignment. That way you'll get a free suspension analysis.

Then if it passes mustard and all is well, get dad to spring for a nice new set of Michelins.

On a car that has nto been driven much by an old lady it probably has some issues form old hard and possibly belt slipped tires.

Tom W
Well I hope all goes well...but it'll probably be in a while before I can get this job paid for....

Question: Alignment first before new tires (Preferably Michelins)?

If I had to send a prayer, it'd be that all ends well and it passes!

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