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#1
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Is this Normal for SDL/SEL W126?
I would just like to know if this is still driveable or in OK condition that I don't have to do to much maintenance. Diagnosis? I am asking about the Ride height because I have some inner tire wear. Kind of like a "Toe-in" kind of thing.
Last edited by Abadjay; 10-04-2008 at 12:24 PM. |
#2
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Looks fine to me...
__________________
1981 300 SD 213k miles "Stock for now" 1999 Super Duty 7.3L 113k miles 1981 300 SD 180k miles "Heavily modified" SOLD |
#3
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Of course I was looking at the ride height. Is that what you're asking about or overall?
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1981 300 SD 213k miles "Stock for now" 1999 Super Duty 7.3L 113k miles 1981 300 SD 180k miles "Heavily modified" SOLD |
#4
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um, what's the question?
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#5
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Oh, no.....
Oh, NO. Your car is siting way too low and it is going to require about $5000 worth of repairs to the trailing arms, springs, shocks, rubber mounts, etc.
Where is this car? I'll come pick it up personally. Okay, just teasing. It might be sitting just a tad low.....but still quite driveable. Pretty car, too.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#6
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Toe-in
There's some premature Tire wear on the inside of the rear tires. Is this a definite symptom?
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#7
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Have you had the car for a while? How long has the tire been in that corner of the car? Maybe there's a front end problem and someone rotated the tires. Maybe those wheels were on another car until recently.
There are some guidelines in this thread on what ride height is and should be - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=124073 Measure from the center of the wheel to the fender lip so you can compare ride height among 126s with different diameter wheels. Sixto 87 300D |
#8
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I'd be more concerned with all the oil leaks up front.
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#9
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Has anyone seen a sagging W126 that was successfully repaired? I can't recall ever seeing one...except for the one, but the guy had to order custom mad springs... :\
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Current cars: 2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles 2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles 1995 S320, 207k Miles |
#10
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the factory springs could be tired and time for some new springs.
Brian C. had some made for his car from coil spring specialties for a decent price |
#11
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Interesting
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When I bought it, I notice that the spare tire was on the driver's side-front (I noticed this because the tire had a different brand name and different treads). So I thought to myself, "Why is it like this? I'll put the orignal tire back so that all the treads are the same." I also noticed after installing what was the original tire...that the back tires had more tread. HENCE, I rotated the tires. The ride height has always been the same and now I'm at almost 177k. Could that spare tire have been there for a reason? Original wheel with the matching tread had no inflation troubles, but I did notice that after I installed it, I drove on the highway about 60-65 MPH and started to wiggle quite a bit on the steering wheel until I slowed down. Something is not right....ride height? Wheel Balance? I just went outside to measure and it's currently at about 25.25 inches When I rotated the tires, I noticed no wear. But I assume that if the back was aligned or fixed, that it would wear out evenly and not prematurely wear on the sides right? Last edited by Abadjay; 10-04-2008 at 02:47 PM. Reason: Added thoughts... |
#12
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Lots of possible explanations for the spare. Could be as simple as a flat tire someone was too lazy to put back on the car.
I don't think you have a toe problem if the car tracks straight and there isn't cupping or sawtooth wear on the tire. What's left is a camber problem because of worn bushings and/or worn springs. It comes down to whether you'd rather throw money at the suspension or more frequent tire changes. I'd be more inclined to address the suspension if left and right rear tires show different wear patterns. If both have comparable camber wear patterns, the $2000 you'd probably have to spend getting the rear suspension back to new condition will pay for a lot of rear tires. Even more if you swap tires left for right keeping the same direction of rotation. Tire shops will laugh at you for trying that. The first thing I'd check is the subframe bushings. There's a bracket the shape of a salt shaker at the front ends of the subframe. The round part of the bracket is just below the forward subframe bushing. There should be about 1cm gap all the way around the bushing. If there's much less than 1cm or the gap is more of a wedge, it's time for new front subframe bushings. The rear mount is at the differential. The mount consists of a rubber block with two bolts into the differential. The block floats in a rubber lined mount. The rubber lining should have a slight bump at the very bottom of the lining. Maybe 3-4mm tall. If that bump is worn flat or if the block isn't centered in the mount, you need a new mount. IIRC there's a rubber biscuit or two between the top of the differential and the subframe. Those are a PITA to get to and I don't think they have much bearing on ride height. Replacing rear subframe bushings if about a half day job. That should restore some ride height. Then there's trailing arm bushings and springs. If you go through the trouble of replacing the springs, might as well allocate time to inspect the trailing arm bushings and replace as necessary. Oh, there's also the rubber pads the springs sit on. MB provides different thicknesses of pads identified by the number of nibs. Sixto 87 300D |
#13
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....omg....
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I wish I had that money, but as far as I know, I would LOVE to do these in somewhat of a DIY fashion, but I know there are tools and stuff that I'd have to rent. If I had a friend or homie show me something or some tips to not get myself decapitated, then okay. That MP Spring Compressor sounds like a long job... My problem is that it's not really my car, my dad bought it for me to drive around, but it's in his name and he pays for the jobs done to it. But of course we don't have money for everything...so hence we pay for the jobs done at our mechanic one bit at a time...I don't think he'll wanna hear that $2000 is the budget...but if there is some great walkthroughs out here with pictures, or a video or live friend, that would be the best! Unfortunately I can only deal with words for the most part...and my dad is one of those people who are "Just have the mechanics do it" kind of people. Any suggestions on what's the easiest and/or best DIY to improve this tire mess? |
#14
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I suggest spending $75 on an alignment.
If you have other issues like worn suspension parts the alignment guys will not align it and will ask for it to be repaired before doing the alignment. That way you'll get a free suspension analysis. Then if it passes mustard and all is well, get dad to spring for a nice new set of Michelins. On a car that has nto been driven much by an old lady it probably has some issues form old hard and possibly belt slipped tires. Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#15
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Alignment
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Question: Alignment first before new tires (Preferably Michelins)? If I had to send a prayer, it'd be that all ends well and it passes! |
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