Do I need to remove the radiator to R&R the vacuum pump?

Just trying to decide how much time I'll need, whether I can fit it in today.

Thanks,

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

No need to remove the radiator, but it is handy to remove the upper radiator hose. Some of those 10mm bolts are tough to get to. Have an assortment of 10mm wrenches and sockets available when you do this job.

SteveM.

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'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver)
'87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car
'84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder
'13 Ram 2500 Diesel
'05 Toyota 4Runner

I'd recommend pulling the radiator, finding the bottomost bolts is a real chore with the radiator in place. I started out by pulling the fan and the serp. belt, and ended up pulling the radiator as well. You really want to be able to get a good look at the face of the pump timer to make sure it has not been damaged, tough to get the right angle to look at it with the radiator in the way. I'd highly recommend pulling the radiator, the fan and the serp. belt.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

The deed is done. About 2hours for the vacuum pump, including removing the belly pan to drain enough coolant to remove the top radiator hose (excellent tip Steve). Pretty easy job with the hose out, can see in very well, and I removed the retainer cage per FSM for the new dam-style gasket.

The (apparently original) vac-pump was sounding scary, loud chatter above 1800RPM. Wasn't the bearing, bearings are fine, but the crimped-on cover was so loose it can move in/out 1/4". Probably would eventually made its way into the fan, ... another 100,000miles or so, happy to have it replaced (203,000 on the car).

The scarier part was the belt tensioner, ugly angle, both the pulley and the pivot had play, and about half of the bearings are missing out of the pulley. I knew there was a reason I haven't scrapped that 3.5L block yet, it donated the healthy tensioner. Another hour there, but it made the vacuum pump easier to pull.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

i did mine last week, i had the crimp-on cover as well, i wasn't having any issues at all and the unit looked perfect but after reading all the horror stories i wanted to be safe rather than sorry, i also removed the basket and used the new style gasket. so far so good.

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1967 250 S
1967 280SE
1968 250S
1971 280 SE
1973 220
1974 280 S
1975 450 SEL
1976 220 D
1979 300SD
1983 300 SD
1985 230 TE euro
1986 280SL
1986 500 SEL euro
1986 190E 2.3
1990 300 SE
2003 C230 K
2004 C230 K
1987 560SEL
1987 300SDL now in canada
2005 C230
1998 C43 AMG Sold to DON
1993 190E 2.6
300TD Former daily driver Totaled
current:
R320 CDI
Ram 2500 Cummins

With reading all of the destructing vac-pump warnings, and hearing mine rattle like it did, ... I thought I had cheated death in that engine bay. Geeze, only the cover?

Peace of mind is restored though, just hearing the soft whirr of the serpentine belt on is how a 603 should sound.

Now to get the time to do the turbo upgrade, the head upgrade, the IP adjustment, ...

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Sorry I'm late to the party, Jeff... I don't often read the board these days, not enough time. Shoot me an email if you have a 603 question, though. Anyway, as you found out, for the 124/603 vac pump, the radiator can stay in place - as long as you remove the fan & clutch. Draining a gallon of coolant so the upper rad hose can come out makes things even easier.

I assume you've seen my vac pump explosion saga? And I had one of the new-style pumps, too!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=231260

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Yes, saw that. Not pretty, ... especially when I'm installing a "new style" pump.

Fan and clutch stayed on, short extension and 10mm on a ratchet, came right off NBD.

Now I hope it doesn't explode.

Anyone need an old-style pump with a good bearing and loose cover for a post-mortem?

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

My crimp-on cover pump was taken off a week ago to "take-a-peek" and
I thought I'd keep it but the more I educate myself of the probability of that pump failing the more I want to go with a new one. Question: is that metal gasket a "one-time" use only? I know it is only $10 but still....

I've reused pump and gasket on another engine with no leaks yet. The key might be to tighten to the seemingly loose spec and no further.

Sixto
87 300D

What are the specs? I am affraid I have maybe overdone it already....