Guys,

Ok, I've driven my Mercedes now for 5 days now after reconditioning the trans fluid, filter, and installing a K1 kit. Shifts are much better in general but not perfect. 1 to 2 shifts pretty good, but still shifts on the high side of the rpm band (about 3200 rpm). 2-3 is the worst. If I dont ease off the pedal a little, then the shift point is around 4,000 rpm. 3-4 is around 3,000 to the best of my recollection---from 3 to 4, i'm looking out for merging traffic

Shift firmness:

1 to 2: If i am pretty easy on the pedal, it shifts very smoothly. If I put about 70% force on the pedal, it does have a slight kick and flares (see above). WOT, the rpms get up near 3,500 and kicks me into 2nd.

2 to 3: Definitely kicks

3 to 4: Not as much of a kick

So after reading Samuel Ross'entire transmission vacuum adjustment thread, I still have this unanswered question: is it better to test and adjust the vacuum first? Or is it better to adjust the Bowden cable to get the shift points right first? and should the adjustments for both be based on WOT shifting as in "getting on an onramp with an incline?" Or normal driving on a reasonably flat road?

This will help me get grounded and started on the right path.

Thanks,
Bob

IM FINALLY GETTING THIS THING DIALED IN!

Well curiousity got the best of me, so i started to adjust the transmission modulator last night. it took about 3-4 tries, but i significantly decreased the harsh kicks. not completely so, but good enough for now. of course, i did this without testing the vac entire system for which i still need to do more homework before diving in. nevertheless, the amount of kick made the drive into work more pleasurable

Have you disconnected your kickdown switch to make sure that a stuck kickdown switch is not causing your delayed shifts?
If you have, then start adjusting the bowden cable.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

The vacuum doesn't control when it shifts, just how hard.
If you make sure the VCV is feeding the modulator the correct vacuum depending on where the fuel rack is (13-15 when idling, 0 when full open), THEN you can start messing with the modulator. Don't fool with it until you make certain you're feeding it the correct vacuum.

I'd give your Bowden cable a few good turns to bring down the RPM shift points.
You're probably getting good acceleration at those shift points, but a little worse MPG.

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kerry and uriah,

ill do so and report back. uriah: my mpg on my 3rd tank since i got this beast on the road was:

1st tank: 24 (lower mpg i believe b/c of the tuning and the leaky IP delivery valves)
2nd tank: 24 (lower mpg i believe b/c of the tuning and the leaky IP delivery valves. IP DVs fixed 1/2 way through this tank)
3rd tank: 25.5. Best so far. i'll lower the shift points as you suggested to see if it'll improve the mpg