Hello all, Turned the key off tonight and the car kept running. Not the first time as I have a small vaccum leak in the doors that I haven't tracked down yet and this occasionally happens. However the stop lever wouldn't shut it off either. Just sputtered. The linkage has been properly adjusted in the past. So I used a screwdriver and separated the linkage from the stop lever and used my hand to pull up on the linkage that goes to the back of the injection pump. Thought that would work. It didn't, engine sputtered and kept running. I finally stopped the engine by pulling up on the IP linkage and pinching the fuel line together at the same time.
I know I have a vaccum problem but what would keep the IP cutoff from not stopping the engine? Does vaccum affect the IP shutoff at all? I know it's not a linkage adjustment issue or the engine would have stopped when I pulled up on the linkage.
I've searched prev. posts but didn't find my answer. Any help appreciated. JEFF

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1981 240d aka "The rust bucket"

I cannot tell you what the problem is but the Manual shutoff is supposed to work reguardless of Vacuum issues.

I would get a mirror and take a good look at the shutoff lever on the IP to see that it is not loose and that the shaft the lever is supposed to turn is moving with the lever.

I do not know if there is anything inside of the Vacuum shutoff that goes bad that would prevent you from using the manual shutoff.
Just to check it you might want to use one of those "Mighty Vac" type hand vacuum pumps to check the Vavuum Shutoff to see if it holds vacuum.
Removing the Vacuum Shutoff and seeing if you can shutoff the engine with the Manual Shutoff might tell you if it is the Vacuum Shutoff causing the problem. However, I have read you need to be very carful when you put it back into the IP (read some threads on it).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I never did have luck with my shutoff lever either, on my 240D. It will shut the engine off when it is cold though. Ever since I fixed my vacuum problem I haven't had to use it much.

Instead of pulling the linkage and pinching the fuel like you could get a little bit of vacuum line and hook it into the shutoff valve when you can't shut it off, just suck on that line and it should shut right off. I figured that out after about 10 tries to suffocate my engine with Co2...

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http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...73378_30-1.jpg

There is a possibility that your "Vacuum Operated" stop pod's lever is incorrectly
attached to the "Stop Lever's" actuation rod inside the I.P.(Or Vice Versa)
Thereby preventing it(The Emergency Stop Lever) from being able to COMPLETELY shut off fuel flow.
There is also the possibility of "Run Away Diesel" (Where you get to watch,
from a safe distance [say 50 yards] as your engine spools up,beyond design
specifications,and begins to launch rods through the sides of the Block along
with Pistons through the Hood.)

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Here's a good runaway diesel article - fun stuff:
http://www.motorwatch.com/automotivebible/mechanics_nightmares/mnmDiesel.htm

It depends on how you want to view the Manual Shutoff. My view is that it is there as an Emergency Shutoff therefore it needs to work properly.

It is possible to install a Fuel Shutoff Solenoid in the fuel line that opens when it gets 12 volts and cuts off the fuel when there is no electricity to it (my Volvo has that but it screws into the IP fuel inlet).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

When the vacuum pump failed on my '80 300 TD I found that the stop lever didn't completely stop the engine unless the idle adjustment was turned all the way down.

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1980 300 TD

1997 Dodge Pickup/Cummins 5.9 12-valve