I've got a cracked door seal over my rear drivers side window. It only leaks when I go through the power wash, but it's like it hit an artery. I have to hold a rag or glove or whatever is there to stop the gushers from the circulating spray heads. Is there anything I can use to mend the present seal without installing a new one? Thanks

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"Knowing is not enough, we must apply.
Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe

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1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)

Its real easy, and not very expensive, to buy new door seals.

I just did my front doors, and after adjusting the door striker, they don't leak and the solid thunk is back.

Some people have had luck (I forget who) using silicone caulking to close the gaps in the seal and shaping the caulk to the space with tape, closing the door, and letting it harden that way. Or using superglue to close smaller gaps.
But a new door seal can be installed in 30minutes, just use some windex or graphite as lube to squeeze em in.

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If you get the technique down they will go right in without any lube, but soapy water works excellent and does no harm. You have to roll them in not just push em straight in.

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81 300SD daily driver/project
86 420SEL (sold)
85 380SE(in the graveyard)

Thanks, guys. That's the main reason I was not wanting to order new seals. I was afraid it would be either rocket science (I don't know how, but that seems par for the course when I think something will actually be easy), or I'd destroy them while trying to install them. I feel better now. I was tired of playing the little Dutch boy.

__________________
"Knowing is not enough, we must apply.
Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe

***********************************


1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)

Do the rear ones require check strap removal like the front?

and really, no adhesives required?

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I never go far without a little Big Star

1994 E500 199/Gray 82k
84 300D (Salty) Orient Red/Palomino 141k
88 300CE (Ersatzhammer) 904/Java 163k -- Turbo Technics twin turbo kit, AMG Gen I body kit, Sportline steering box and steering wheel, Sportline/Eibach /Bilstein Sport/500E suspension, Quaife LSD in 210 mm diff case, Silver Arrow brakes.
88 300CE Brabus 3.6 199 on Black 44k

Haven't done the rears, as I don't need to yet. I don't think you have to undo the check strap, however. That just takes a minute though, with a small punch. The hardest part of the front doors is the plastic pins that hold the metal seal cover on the front of the doors... trying to pull them w/o breaking them is a pain.

No adhesives required, or even recommended, for most of the door. The front of the door doesn't have the same channelling as the rest, so you can use a light coat of weatherstripping glue. Clean out the old channels first. It's really an easy job.

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Yea those little plastic things are $3.00 each at the dealer. I had to buy 22 of them when I painted my car cause I just broke them off.

The rear is basically the same as the front

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81 300SD daily driver/project
86 420SEL (sold)
85 380SE(in the graveyard)

I don't know about the door seals being cheap, as they are $150 a piece at the dealer, or $600 for all four. This is for my 1979 300SD W116. I hear the aftermarket brands that are less money do not work well.