Please forgive me, as I am not the most mechanically inclined.

I have a 1995 E300D that normally runs like a dream. Lately, however, the accelerator seems to be sticking in the morning. When I start the car, the engine revs at a high rpm and when I tap the pedal to bring it down, the rpms stay high or even go higher. If I put it into drive, the car accelerates without touching the gas pedal. If I switch it back to neutral, the rpms stay very high. In addition, it seems that the transmission is shifting a little harder than normal. I live in Los Angeles and it has been cold(California cold ), but not that cold. Any ideas about what might be going on?

Thank you in advance for any help.

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1995 E300D

I'm not familiar with the 95 but the first thing I would do is clean and lubricate the accelerator linkage.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

How many miles are on your car?

I do not know much about the newer models so can only give a general response until someone who knows better will give some answers.

Check your throttle linkages to see that they are not covered with thick skummy oil/dirt that would get more viscous in cold weather. Next it may be that the Throttle Linkage balls need lubrication with some thin oil.
If you do not feel confident to pop the Linkages off to clean them try spraying the Linkage Ball and Sockets without taking them apart with some WD-40 or something similar.

Transmission: Check to see that there is the proper amount of ATF in the transmission. After that inspect the Vacuum lines/hoses looking for cracking or disconnected hoses.
If you find any that need replacement try to replace 1 at time (if you have a digital cammera you can take a pic of where the hoses go before you remove them) so that that you can keep the connections in order.

Also I do not think tapping on the gas pedal will reduce the idle on Diesel Cars. That was for Carburated gass cars where you tapped the pedal to release it from the High Idle Cam on the Carburator after the Engine warmed up some.

I have not noticed one on my earlier model but see if there is an exterior throttle return spring that might have broken or come loose (have you noticed that your Pedal is easier to push down) or is there a spring located inside down by the Pedal?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The car has 116000 miles on it.

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1995 E300D

I too have a '95 E300 Diesel.

My throttle linkage was stiff when I first got the car. When I changed the oil the first time I popped off each of the ball and socket joints on the throttle linkage and sprayed with PB blaster or WD40 - then reassembled. This helped quite a bit to loosen up the linkage and reduce the pedal effort required to increase throttle opening.

I didn't have the sticking you describe - that tells me that perhaps your return spring has broken?

cleaning and lubricating all the joints in the system, and perhaps applying some Napa cable lube to the cable would also be a good idea - that stuff has worked magic for me on some push pull cables on equipment.

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95 E300 Diesel 265k and counting

The strange thing is that it only happens in the morning when the car is cold. Once it is warmed up, it drives fine. Would this happen with a broken spring?

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1995 E300D

My 95 E300D does the same thing. Only when cold. I removed the linkage as close to the IP as possible, step on pedal, all good. I think it is the IP. Did you fix the problem?

Don`t think the guy is around much. last post is dec 08 looking at his user profile.

did you lube up your linkages as mentioned above? I really does help. the ball and cups get gunked up with dirt and old grease etc.....

factory shop manual mentions using ATF to lube them.

Welcome to the Forum

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I have been dealing with the problem for 2 years now. I would like to fix it before winter. This only happens when the engine is cold. Maybe below 32 deg F. The problem goes away when the engine warms up. Here is what I did last winter.

Disconnected the linkage as close to the IP as I can get. Start the engine, grab the disconnected linkage that goes down to the IP and push down on it, and it sticks. You can watch it very slowly return to idle position. Or you can pull it pack to the idle position with a lot of resistance. Let the engine run for 5-10 min to warm up. Push down on the linkage, the linkage returns to idle immediately .

I have read a handful of posts regarding this same problem but have not read if there is a fix for this. Anyone out there know about this?

Thanks for the reply Charlie

Lube all linkages and pivot points. Can't stress this enough. I had issue. Ignored it too long. It's only takes 15 - 20 minutes to lube linkages and pivot points.

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

had to lube all linkages on my 87 om603 for this problem, dont know if linkages are same.

wonder if these later models used plastic ball ends on the linkage arms. if they do, find metal alternative! 123's used metal that fit fine on my 87 but no idea on a 95.

reason i mention is because 1 of my plastic ends broke and let the linkage fall off, thus jamming itself into intake runner, thus negating my efforts to reduce engine speed at 75mph on hwy. yeah that was fun. minivan pulled into left lane, i hit decel on cruise, nothing, decel again, nothing, cruise off, nothing, 5 feet from bumper of the minivan i nailed the brakes which thank God slowed it enough with engine still revving at 3 grand. i was in it for new set of front brake pads after that 1. my dealer suggested trying the 123 ball ends which fit perfect and are metal. Gotta go back to pre-bean counter days to get the good stuff...

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Paul
Benz-less
I need an SDL !

I've got a 95 E 300 as well and am experiencing this now.

Anyone else have this problem and resolved it?

'Lube the Accelerator Cable (That Goes through the Firewall.)

IF, you're stuck somewhere out on the Backside of Beyond and can't get the
"Approved" Mercedes cable lube... Yamaha markets a cable lube.

AND a really slick, simple device to get the lube into the cable sheath.

Attached Thumbnails

       

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Thanks, compress.

Will do today.