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#1
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recore or new radiator
Well, you start going on one of these MB's and it becomes a treasure hunt.
Yesterday I was bolting the rt frt fender back down after body repair and paint and I began eyeballing the whole inner wheel area for issues and noticed the major rust and rot along the under bumper apron/valance strip. That of course led across to the left frt fender and the same rust rot condition. So I removed fender liners and bumper end rubbers which exposed the rusting bumper rubber brackets. I spent the rest of the day doing rustoration with POR 15 products. Today, I began body and final paint work and noticed a puddle of antifreeze beneath the rad. I think my demo and prep of the rust may have shaken or somehow moved and stressed something in the rad and opened a small crack or hole. Which leads to my question. Should I just buy new or is a local recore a good option?
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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD 2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily |
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#2
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much easier and cheaper to replace.
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#3
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I would replace with a Behr radiator. Lot of the aftermarket radiators look good until you try to fit them in. Maybe even a used one that has been pressure tested.
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#4
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Radiator shop
There are local shops that take the rad end tanks, clean and recore them.
I know a friend has had this done on his heavy equipment But being Saturday PM I can't call around to find out prices and the like.
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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD 2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily |
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#5
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Green coolant
The radiator had green coolant in it and I bet it has had green for many years judging by the rest of the PO service.
Would that have eaten away the core?
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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD 2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily |
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#6
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What's wrong with green coolant?
It's the Dex-Cool yellow that eats stuff. |
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#7
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Depends on how long it's been in service.
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#8
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Statistically speaking, I would bet that the plastic tanks on the MB radiatiors are more problematic than the cores.
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#9
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I don't think you can rebuild a Mercedes radiator with plastic ends. It takes a special process to bond plastic to metal; the rebuilders use a soldering process on metal tanks, which are all brass, I think.
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
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#10
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manual vs auto
My car has a manual trans and does not have auto trans line fittings on the lower tank. It is the original Behr rad.
The new Behrs I have seen for sale all have the AT fittings. Is there a manual trans rad or do they just use the same one for both trans? What is the thread size of those fittings and where would I get caps to plug them?
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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD 2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily |
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#11
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Quote:
I wouldn't count the radiator out just yet. many a small hole in the core can be fixed by old-fashioned radiator shops. Radiator repair is a dying art, and if you still have such a shop near by, I'd let them have a crack at a core leak. Even a crack in the plastic tanks on a Merc radiator are not always a death sentence, as M-B has a repair kit just for fixing them. Somewhere out there, I have even seen a metal repair collar that takes care of cracked plastic radiator necks for Mercs.
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- K.C.Adams '77 300D Euro Delivery OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap 404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex Current status: * Undergoing body work My '77 300D progress thread |
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#12
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Buy a nissens,the behr usally break at the necks.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt |
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#13
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There is no real need to plug them.
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#14
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Old Style "ALL METAL" radiator
I'd start contacting shops (and online) there may be an aftermarket all metal
['much more desirable than the "Plastic Tanks" Nightmare.] They're ReCoreable and ReBuildable.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
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#15
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With Aftermarkets is there a choice between Aluminum and Brass/Copper cores?
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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