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  #1  
Old 01-18-2009, 10:15 AM
71inka02
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 286
190D 2.2 -- Need General Info...

Hello --- I'm looking at an 85 190D 2.2 Automatic. I don't really know why --- I guess because it's an old Diesel Benz, that needs a good home! Car has 237K miles - has been sitting for a couple of years. It starts up fine and can be driven - Owner states it needs a heater core, and there is an issue with power windows --- when car is started the windows work fine for maybe 30 seconds or so, then no power to switches. Owner states it needs a center driveshaft bearing as well as tires, and possibly an idle stabilizer. It needs some good cleaning and detail.

I have absolutely NO knowledge of the W210/601 --- Is this series a possible long life high mileage vehicle. What are the pros and cons?

Lot's of questions---So I'm looking for the general basics and opinions....?

Many thanks...

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71Inka02

62 W121 190DB - Original CA/AZ Car - Excellent Example
99 E300 Turbo Diesel - 362,000...Awesome Daily Driver
01 E320 Wagon - 297,xxx (wife's work car)
01 E320 Wagon - 131,000
02 Land Rover Disco SE- 110,000
87 BMW 325is (E30) Full Restore - Son's
06 Mini Cooper 'S' - Son's
87 Toyota FJ60 Land Cruiser - Showroom Condition - 152,000

84 300D - 142,xxx :cool - "Sold"
83 300D-"Sold" - 211,456
85 300SD-"Sold" - 213,789
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  #2  
Old 01-18-2009, 01:43 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,841
It better be cheap because it's not worth what a shop will charge to correct the known problems, let alone the unknown.

I believe replacing the heater core is a take-the-dash-apart affair as it is with 124 and later series. Not particularly difficult work but plan on a solid 20-30 hours with all the labeling and trial-and-error identification of what you forgot to label. If prices are similar to the 124 series, you're looking at something like $500 for a heater core and vacuum pods (which you should replace while the dash is apart). You might luck out and find a bad monovalve will get heat working again. Then it's more like $50 and a half hour.

Power window switches are a scrap yard part or check the parts forum. Sounds more like a relay problem, though.

I figure the center bearing will take a first-timer 8-10 hours and possibly a trip to a machine shop if it needs a press and you don't have one. You might replace the flex disks while they're accessible.

Idle stability could just be a bad overvoltage protection relay or engine rpm sensor (does the tach work?). The should idle or can be made to idle mechanically if it's a problem with EDS or ELR.

Are service records available? History of suspension work? Rust?

edit - there's always a used heater core. Don't get used vacuum pods!

Sixto
87 300D
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  #3  
Old 01-18-2009, 03:21 PM
71inka02
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 286
Great information - thanks.

The tach does not work --- I haven't gotten into service records, etc..., as the husband wasn't home and has knowledge of the car. So I don't know how the owner knows heater core needs replacing -- Owner is asking $1100.....Once I gather some knowledge and if interested would offer something well below that.

How about high mileage life of the engine and tranny - can this motor be compared to my 123 or 126 relative to life and ease of maintenance?

thanks again...
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71Inka02

62 W121 190DB - Original CA/AZ Car - Excellent Example
99 E300 Turbo Diesel - 362,000...Awesome Daily Driver
01 E320 Wagon - 297,xxx (wife's work car)
01 E320 Wagon - 131,000
02 Land Rover Disco SE- 110,000
87 BMW 325is (E30) Full Restore - Son's
06 Mini Cooper 'S' - Son's
87 Toyota FJ60 Land Cruiser - Showroom Condition - 152,000

84 300D - 142,xxx :cool - "Sold"
83 300D-"Sold" - 211,456
85 300SD-"Sold" - 213,789
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  #4  
Old 01-18-2009, 04:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 590
606 engine

If the oil has been changed regularly, engine will go the distance. Remember that 606 head is aluminum, so some blow head gasket at cylinder #1- oil & coolant dump into cylinder (not oil into coolant), so obvious heavy blue and white smoke. Engine has hydraulic lifters, so valves don't need adjusting, but they can fail depending on oil changes.

A good sign if the coolant is correct gold color MB or Zerex G-05, and not the green junk.
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  #5  
Old 01-18-2009, 09:07 PM
71inka02
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by ds190 View Post
If the oil has been changed regularly, engine will go the distance. Remember that 606 head is aluminum, so some blow head gasket at cylinder #1- oil & coolant dump into cylinder (not oil into coolant), so obvious heavy blue and white smoke. Engine has hydraulic lifters, so valves don't need adjusting, but they can fail depending on oil changes.

A good sign if the coolant is correct gold color MB or Zerex G-05, and not the green junk.
More good information - thanks.
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71Inka02

62 W121 190DB - Original CA/AZ Car - Excellent Example
99 E300 Turbo Diesel - 362,000...Awesome Daily Driver
01 E320 Wagon - 297,xxx (wife's work car)
01 E320 Wagon - 131,000
02 Land Rover Disco SE- 110,000
87 BMW 325is (E30) Full Restore - Son's
06 Mini Cooper 'S' - Son's
87 Toyota FJ60 Land Cruiser - Showroom Condition - 152,000

84 300D - 142,xxx :cool - "Sold"
83 300D-"Sold" - 211,456
85 300SD-"Sold" - 213,789
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  #6  
Old 01-18-2009, 09:09 PM
jobah's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Chicago native-W.MI transplant
Posts: 281
You can get a better one for similarly small money. The 601 tends to be pretty trouble free. sixto is right on the heater core issues. The tach not working can be an expensive fix.

I found that it may be cheaper to get a rebuilt drive shaft with an already set center support bearing. I did this once and got a realy good deal on a rebuilt drive shaft.

The windows are a relay issue, and not a switch issue.

Personally, the 2.2 auto is SLOW, whereas the 2.2 5speed is actually quite spirited. I would pass on this one. There are TOO many little problems that are quite expensive.
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Jovan

'84 (11/83) 190D 2.2 5-Speed; Silver/Blue; Motor No. 00354, 402k mi (340+kmi mine)

'89 Porsche 911 Turbo Coupe; Black/Black; 53kmi
'05 BMW 530i 6-Speed; 302kmi
'19 Range Rover; 30kmi
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  #7  
Old 01-18-2009, 09:32 PM
71inka02
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 286
Quote:
Originally Posted by jobah View Post
You can get a better one for similarly small money. The 601 tends to be pretty trouble free. sixto is right on the heater core issues. The tach not working can be an expensive fix.

I found that it may be cheaper to get a rebuilt drive shaft with an already set center support bearing. I did this once and got a realy good deal on a rebuilt drive shaft.

The windows are a relay issue, and not a switch issue.

Personally, the 2.2 auto is SLOW, whereas the 2.2 5speed is actually quite spirited. I would pass on this one. There are TOO many little problems that are quite expensive.
My gut is sort of leaning me away - and the main reason is the automatic tranny and slowness...I am going to wait and talk with the husband tomorrow and allow him to talk to me about the car --- I'm curious as to his knowledge and explainations.

Thanks again...

__________________
71Inka02

62 W121 190DB - Original CA/AZ Car - Excellent Example
99 E300 Turbo Diesel - 362,000...Awesome Daily Driver
01 E320 Wagon - 297,xxx (wife's work car)
01 E320 Wagon - 131,000
02 Land Rover Disco SE- 110,000
87 BMW 325is (E30) Full Restore - Son's
06 Mini Cooper 'S' - Son's
87 Toyota FJ60 Land Cruiser - Showroom Condition - 152,000

84 300D - 142,xxx :cool - "Sold"
83 300D-"Sold" - 211,456
85 300SD-"Sold" - 213,789
Reply With Quote
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