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  #16  
Old 02-04-2009, 05:29 PM
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I should be able to remove the tumbler with just the key and a paper clip right? No need to pull anything else first, right?

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Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
The tumbler is a 5 minute job. Remove it, then check to see if it opperates properly when in your hand out of the car, if it sticks that is your problem, if it works fine then your problem is the steering lock which is a bit more involved.


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  #17  
Old 02-04-2009, 06:08 PM
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I couldn't get a tumbler to match the rest of my locks ("79", 240D) so I had to get a generic one. Gave the vin to two dealers, one on the east coast and one on the west, no dice for that vin, too old I guess. I really dont want to have two keys but if you have an older car, maybe its the only choice. Or, did I go to the wrong two dealers
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  #18  
Old 02-04-2009, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
I should be able to remove the tumbler with just the key and a paper clip right? No need to pull anything else first, right?
A paper clip is a bit dicey. You'd be way ahead of the game with a jewelers screwdriver.

Whatever you do...........don't return the key to the 0 position and risk the chance of a failure to return to I.
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  #19  
Old 02-04-2009, 10:39 PM
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The tumbler came out easy with a paper clip. It was quite gunked up. I soaked it in brake clean and blew it out with compressed air multiple times and it actually got worse- key wouldn't turn anymore. Some of the wafers were binding in the tumbler. I then tried spraying it with penetrating oil. Didn't help, key still won't turn. I then soaked it in citrus cleaner then rinsed in hot water multiple times. That finally did it. After I dried it off, I rubbed the key with a lead pencil and inserted the key in the tumbler for some dry lube and now the action is nice and smooth like it should. I have heard you should never use any type of wet lubricant in locks since it attracts dust. Tommorow I will put the tumbler back and see if the repair is a success or not. I am hoping the no start is due to the tumbler getting stuck and not a problem in the steering lock.
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  #20  
Old 02-04-2009, 10:48 PM
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Hi Brian, I see you posted as I was composing my last post. After having the tumbler out and taking a close look, a wire that is stiff enough is needed to push into the hole in order to pull the spring loaded pawl back so that the cap is unlocked (by the retracted pawl) and allow it to be twisted off. I used a light duty paper clip as first and it was bending and I wasn't able to retract the pawl. Tried a heavy duty paper clip next and it worked fine.

Ps.I really wanted to take the tumbler apart and remove all the wafers so that I would never have to worry about it failing again. But I could not find the curved shims (given to me by a locksmith friend years ago) that I needed to take the tumbler apart. I am going to the locksmith tomorrow and see if they will sell me a curve shim.
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Last edited by funola; 02-04-2009 at 10:54 PM.
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  #21  
Old 02-04-2009, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Hi Brian, I see you posted as I was composing my last post. After having the tumbler out and taking a close look, a wire that is stiff enough is needed to push into the hole in order to pull the spring loaded pawl back so that the cap is unlocked (by the retracted pawl) and aloow it to be twisted off. I used a light duty paper clip as first and it was bending and I wasn't able to retract the pawl. Tried a heavy duty paper clip next and it worked fine.
I like the jewelers screwdriver because it presents a flat surface. Furthermore, it's very stiff and you can get some leverage out of it.

Glad the clip worked for you Steve............
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  #22  
Old 02-04-2009, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I like the jewelers screwdriver because it presents a flat surface. Furthermore, it's very stiff and you can get some leverage out of it.

Glad the clip worked for you Steve............
Thanks Brain. I have the tumbler in front of me. It does not feel like leverage is needed. The pin feels like it is pushing against a ramp which is spring loaded. A jewelry screw driver of the right diameter will work fine. If unavailable, a small drill bit would also work if you use the blunt end.
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  #23  
Old 02-04-2009, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
Thanks Brain. I have the tumbler in front of me. It does not feel like leverage is needed. The pin feels like it is pushing against a ramp which is spring loaded. A jewelry screw driver of the right diameter will work fine. If unavailable, a small drill bit would also work if you use the blunt end.
Maybe the SD is a bit different, but the capability of leveraging against the ramp was a benefit. I suppose you could just force it forward and the ramp would retract..........but, it requires quite a bit of forward force and you must keep this force going for the entire unthreading operation. With the screwdriver, you just lever the pawl inward with minimum forward force.
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  #24  
Old 02-04-2009, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Maybe the SD is a bit different, but the capability of leveraging against the ramp was a benefit. I suppose you could just force it forward and the ramp would retract..........but, it requires quite a bit of forward force and you must keep this force going for the entire unthreading operation. With the screwdriver, you just lever the pawl inward with minimum forward force.
Maybe the SD is different? Actually , not much force is required on the one I have in front of me. As I push on the paper clip, I can see the pawl retract proportionally. If I let go of the paper clip, the sharp edge of the paper clip locks it in place. So, a paper clip is actually easier to work with.
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  #25  
Old 02-04-2009, 11:23 PM
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Thinking back when I was working with the paper clip in the tumbler in the car ealier this evening , it kept falling out. I must have scored up the ramp pretty good and that's why it's not slipping out anymore.

For reference, the paper clip I used is a pretty burly one, type with knurl marks on it for extra grip on the paper.
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  #26  
Old 02-05-2009, 09:52 PM
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I put the cleaned tumbler back in the 240D and I am happy to say that it is working fine, for now anyway. It even starts the car so the temporary push button start switch I installed is no longer needed. The cleaning worked so well that I removed and cleaned the tumbler from the 300D. I skipped the brake clean and penetrating oil this time and used only citrus cleaner and hot soapy water. What a difference!
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  #27  
Old 02-06-2009, 10:58 PM
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another key won't turn problem

I'd like to point out a problem I had on a W123 that is not your problem, but if this thread is ever searched it should be noted. Sometimes the "ignition" key won't turn because the steering wheel is straining against the lock and you have to wiggle the steering wheel to release the force. I almost had to walk/hitch 15 miles back to town before I figured this out one dark night. I haven't owned a lot of steering wheel lock cars, but my other ones (2 Chevettes) never did this, only the Mercedes.
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  #28  
Old 02-07-2009, 09:25 PM
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The 240D tumbler that I cleaned still turns fine with the key but it won't turn to the engine start position again (that worked briefly after cleaning). So I removed the tumbler again and gave it another cleaning in Citrus cleaner and hot soapy water. The tumbler has a double set wafers, one side has 5 wafers while the other has 4. I have found the 5 th wafer (at the key tip) was hanging up. When it hangs in the retrated position, the key won't turn it's full rotation, thus no engine start. I worked the 5th wafer back and forth to unstick it. After it dried, I lubed it with a bit of dry graphite powder. It works fine for now, I'll have to see for how long this time. My keys are brass and very worn and I am sure it contributes to the problem. I found the curved shim but it is made for locks with pins, not wafers. Anyone know how the Mercedes tumblers come apart? I want to make a key to fit the worn wafers. I have considered getting a key made from the VIN at a dealer but I have no idea if my car has the original locks. Even if the locks match the VIN, they are probably so worn that a new key may not work.
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  #29  
Old 02-08-2009, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
I believe its cheaper to take them to a decent locksmith and have them refinish.

Ever notice the pile of brass shavings under the ign switch?
ya, hes right. from my '87 300TD i have the regular key and the valet key. the regular key is smooth and rounded. but the hardly used valet key is nice and sharp
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  #30  
Old 02-08-2009, 08:46 AM
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The tumbler wafers are made of brass, a much harder brass than the brass used for keys, but not as hard as the steel keys. I think one way or the other, there will be brass shavings. It's a matter where it comes from. They should cause no harm and should just fall out of the tumbler unless someone sprayed an oil lube in there, which holds the shavings in place and becomes gunk over time causing the tumbler to jam.

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