Condition of non-running 240D engine

[engatwork]

Is there any way to tell what kind of condition a non-running 240D engine is in? I am looking at picking up a 240D that is showing 119k miles which, based on the way the car looks, is probably accurate. The interior is in excellent condition, it has low mileage Michelin tires and the body is straight and looks good, although the paint is faded. Worst case I would put the interior in my 300D. Anyway, I wonder if there is a way to tell what kind of condition the engine is in. If I purchase it and bring it home should I remove the fuel tank, clean the fuel system, change the filters, change the oil/filter, adjust the valves and start of delivery, install a battery and try to crank it or should I just go ahead and pull the cylinder head and see what it looks like in there. The current owner said they purchased it not running and do not have a clue but he did say it would turn over. I am thinking - worst case - it could have been run hot in which case a rebuild is probably in order. Best case - adjust valves and get the fuel system back in order. If the engine needs rebuilding then it will become a parts car. The tranny fluid looks/smells good. It has been sitting for about a year now.
thanks

I got a 82 300SD with 255K started that sat, unstarted, for 3+ years with a new glow plug, glow plug fuse, and a battery. Started on the 4th crank. Ran GREAT, didnt change anything other than that. Try to get it started, that will tell you alot.

John

[Ken300D]

First of all, let me say "I'm no expert". Maybe you'll get some more experienced advice than mine.

If it were mine, I'd go as far as removing the valve cover to check the timing chain and valve train first. This will tell you if the timing chain is broken or slipped (not all that likely, but if it is broken and you crank it over - bent valve - of course it may already be bent).

Next I would suggest trying to turn the engine over using a big socket on the crankshaft. Easier said than done. But the idea is to see and feel how the crank turns and if there is any rattling sound (very bad news - maybe broken rod - not likely) You can also watch the valve train while doing this.

If it were non-running I'd adjust the valves while the valve cover was off. Then I'd bump the starter for a few revolutions. Everything seems OK then back on with the valve cover.

Next I'd try to start. If no go I'd check the fuel supply by loosening a pipe near the injector and crank. No leakage, its not getting fuel. Blockage?

Next thing to check would be glow plugs.

When you know you're getting fuel and glow plug operation, it cranks OK and sounds OK but still doesn't start, then it may be time to test compression.

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You could shortcut this a little and just check fuel delivery and glow plugs. Probably a more likely culprit than broken timing chain or piston rod. And like TD said, glow plugs are very likely to be the problem.

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Once you get it started then its time to change all fluids and filters.

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Did I mention I'm no expert? Let us know what you find so we can add it to the mental statistics of "what can go wrong".

Ken300D

[psfred]

you will need a new battery, probably -- if it has been sitting any real length of time, the battery will be shot.

If you need one, get a Sears Diehard, International series. If your car isn't in the Sears book, get the one that fits a 1985 Volvo Turbodiesel, it's the same one -- huge. Make sure you ONLY use this battery in a 115 -- it has recessed connections, almost any other battery this big will dent the hood (personal experience....)

Check for fuel delivery at the bleeder on the fuel filter while operating the priming pump -- no fuel = no start.

Check that the motor turns at least 100 rpm -- it won't start if it doesn't.

Check for glowplug operation -- the resistor links on series plugs will get red hot it they are working, check for continuity on the parallel type. No glowplugs = no start. Please don't use ether, you can ruin the engine. Please!!!

If you have fuel and no glow plugs, you can use the hot air from a LIT propane torch aimed down the intake to help start -- DO NOT just blow propane in there, you can literally blow the head off (not funny, I've seen it done). The hot air (very hot, actually) from the burning propane torch will ignite the fuel spray and get you going.

Tell me what year this is and I can help more.

Low compression can be out of adjustment valves, nothing more -- more details if you need them.

Peter

Sears rips you off with that international battery stuff. I just bought one for my 300SDL.. $110.00

I could have sworn I saw the same battery on the shelf, like a gold series for $70 or $80

[MarkM]

All good advice above....

to get this thing going, you need fuel, heat from glow plugs, and compression.

My guess is that fuel delivery is probably ok. The main things to look for are operation of glow plugs and valve clearances. The most common glow plug problem is one bad glow plug.....put in 4 new ones ($10ea.)

With as little as 119K miles on it, the other likely cause of a no start is that the vehicle was neglected and the valves never adjusted. In this case all valves will be very tight....so tight that they never close...never give compression.

Put in glow plugs, adjust valves, attach battery and fire it up!!

good luck

[william rogers]

I hope you keep us posted the suspense is growing....
William Rogers....

[engatwork]

I will probably try to get it this coming week - I am going to tell the wife that ya'll made me do it . There will be heck to pay around here for at least 3 days .

[engatwork]

Gave the guy the check for it this morning and told him I would come get it over the next week or two. I have a friend that has a roll back tow truck and will get him to help me get it home. I think I will bring it home and put it in the garage when the wife is not here one day. Maybe she won't notice the difference between it and the E320 seeing as how they are both green. I will keep ya'll posted and put up pictures as I take them.
Add one 1983 240D with 119k miles to my signature

[psfred]

Turbo:

The Gold series isn't good enough (check the cold cranking amps and amp-hour capacity). Also won't physically fit in a 115 chassis!

Peter

[william rogers]

BRAVO!! A man of true sprit! Wash it and wax it before you put it on the truck ,it will be just like a new puppie irresistable.....
William Rogers....

[Ken300D]

I'm looking forward to having the dated Haynes manual replaced by the fresh, new Engatwork Illustrated 240D comprehensive publication.

[engatwork]

Got it home at lunch today and gave it a quick wash job before the wife laid eyes on it. She was pretty cool with it (brought it home at the right time of month . Upon my return from work I removed the fan/shround and put the old crankshaft socket on it and that baby TURNS OVER without any problem. I don't have any doubt that I can make this jewel run - again - it is only showing 119800 miles on the odo and based on the condition of the interior I have absolutely no reason to doubt this. I don't think the first aid kit has EVER been opened.
I removed the fuel level sensor and noticed that toward the bottom end it is quite black and there was some pretty nasty black stuff coming out along with the fuel. Most of the fuel siphoning through the clear plastic hose did look pretty good though.
The order of the "todo" list as of this writing is as follows:
a) Remove the fuel injectors and squirt a little atf in there to sit for a few days. Crank it over with the injectors out, visually inspect them and replace them as necessary. Replace all the fuel return lines from the injectors.
a) MT the fuel tank, blow out the lines and replace the filters. I did notice fuel pouring out from the fuel pump area when I operated the hand pump so a fuel pump or hose in this area may be in order.
b) Check the start of delivery.
c) Adjust the valves and take a look at the timing chain, etc while in there.
d) Replace all fluids/filters, including the power steering.
e) Replace the atf fluid/filter although I will say it does look pretty good.
f) Take the radiator to a rad. shop to get cleaned/checked out good.
Oh yea - run the diesel purge once it gets running.
Once it will run I will clean up the engine compartment real well and then start finding the vacuum leaks.
This is going to be a pretty fun project because the car is in such good condition. I will keep everyone posted as it goes along and if anyone can think of anything else I may need to take a look at please let me know. Looking forward to the first time it runs .

[psfred]

Jim:

You will probably need a new fuel sender -- they "melt" when not immersed in fuel and won't work, also shed black goo that is definitely NOT good for the rest of the fuel system!

I suspect you also need a new priming pump -- the leather or rubber "seal" at the bottom goes bad, and while fuel will draw up, it sprays out the top of the pump rather than being forced into the fuel system. You may need a crow-foot wrench to replace it, I did.

Replace all the rubber fuel lines from tank to pump and from pump to fuel filter (the clear plastic ones only come with new ends, you can replace them with standard fuel line and a clamp) if they are at all iffy. The lines from the steel tubes to priming/supply pump and from pump to filter are usually the worst. I've known more than one MB diesel to be junked because the hose to the supply pump was bad and it wouldn't start anymore!

Have fun!

Peter

[Ken300D]

Yep, it's always a GOOD sign when the first aid kit hasn't been used!

Mine is missing entirely so I presume one of the previous owners of the car needed just about everything in there.........

Well, we have to have a picture here at some point soon.

From your initial inspection, it is beginning to sound like fuel delivery issues may be why its not running. And it may even be problems before you get to the injection pump. There was someone recently who was selling the hand primer pumps on EBay for about $29 - search on "Mercedes Diesel" to see if more are listed.

Your list of tasks looks good. You may want to assess the condition of the radiator yourself before you go to the time and expense of taking it all out and having a radiator shop refurbish it. After all, there is a chance there is nothing wrong with it. Hopefully they kept good antifreeze in it, and when you get a chance to look in the top with the hose off, it won't be too corroded. This is the one thing you have listed that can cost some bucks.