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#16
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I use the invaluable MityVac.
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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST 1983 300SD - 305000 1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000 1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000 https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif |
#17
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Your likely issue is that you've got no fluid in the reservoir for the rear brakes. The design of the reservoir is not all that great...........the front section needs to be filled to the very top to allow fluid to spill over to the rear reservoir. Check the rear reservoir by looking at it from the passenger side...........it's probably empty. |
#18
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We are dealing with fluids... seeking their own level, taking the easy way first, ... all the usual fluid physics.... That seal around the nipple at the top is not sealed when the nipple is open for the fluid to be coming out... When the pedal is allowed to come up it will try to suck... but fluid has more resistance than air... and it will suck air back into the system rather than the new fluid.. |
#19
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Didn't knew that... I'll check the reservoir, but I think mine isn't divided... Been PRESS - OPEN NIPPLE - CLOSE NIPPLE - DEPRESS for about 20 minutes and nothing!!!!! Only bursts of air...
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--------------------------------------------------- Mercedes fanatic 1985 200D (w124) and totaled 190D |
#20
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Same thing now in the other rear wheel... Only air...
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--------------------------------------------------- Mercedes fanatic 1985 200D (w124) and totaled 190D |
#21
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If the back fluid reservoir was empty it shouldn't send air thru the lines right?
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--------------------------------------------------- Mercedes fanatic 1985 200D (w124) and totaled 190D |
#22
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What Brian said. Sounds like you've completely emptied the reservoir.
__________________
On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST 1983 300SD - 305000 1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000 1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000 https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif |
#23
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Quote:
The reservoir is where the new fluid comes from, if it is empty it is where the air comes from.
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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST 1983 300SD - 305000 1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000 1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000 https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif |
#24
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I'll check the reservoir division thing now! I'm doing this with the reservoir cap off, is this right?
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--------------------------------------------------- Mercedes fanatic 1985 200D (w124) and totaled 190D |
#25
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I tell my helper "pump," let him pump four or five times, then I say "DOWN." He holds it down while I open the bleeder, and then close the bleeder. Then I say "PUMP" again. After three or four cycles, I add the word "HOLD" after "DOWN" so I can go check the reservoir before he comes up on the pedal and possibly sucks air.
I also firmly (no pun intended) believe that the pumping should be relatively slow and deliberate, with firm pressure on the down stroke. I like to do it slowly because I believe that rapid motion will encourage the air to mix into the fluid and create tiny bubbles that migrate through the line, whereas a slow motion on the pedal will encourage the air to remain segregated and concentrated for more effective removal. Finally, don't forget that brake fluid will remove paint. Be careful topping up the reservoir, be careful where the bleed fluid goes. I usually put the cap on loosely during the process because sometimes fluid can splash out of the reservoir during pumping. And start at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front.
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1987 W201 190D |
#26
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I just topped de reservoir to the TOP!! It took quite a bit of fluid to top it, it looked liken the fluid was going somewere...maybe the rear...LOL
I'll try now!
__________________
--------------------------------------------------- Mercedes fanatic 1985 200D (w124) and totaled 190D |
#27
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I think so also... a few gentle pushes until some resistance is felt... and hold the pressure works just fine... not trying to blow out any seals anywhere... or get leg exercise... just push unwanted air out of the system with the fluid which is associated with it...
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#28
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You're right...
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Note to self: Always bleed the brakes with the reservoir fully TOPPED!!! Thanks for all your inputs guys!!! I was so happy that I changed the PS fluid too! Tomorrow will change the Diff fluid and the engine oil!!
__________________
--------------------------------------------------- Mercedes fanatic 1985 200D (w124) and totaled 190D |
#29
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Glad to hear you were able to get to the bottom of things! I'd suggest picking up a mityvac/brake bleeder, its a huge help!! Not to mention you'll be able to diagnose any vacuum issues in the future.
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#30
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Invest in a one-man hand trigger pump to bleed the system, and 86 the guy pumping the brake pedal. Works like a charm for me.
Last edited by Skid Row Joe; 04-11-2009 at 03:45 PM. |
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