A search for the W126 FE alignment specs found:

Camber -0.3 to 0.2
Caster 9.5 to 10.5
Toe 0.06 to 0.15
Cross camber -0.3 to 0.3
Total toe 0.13 to 0.29

What is "total toe"? (no comment re the pretty girls thread)

Also, the rear has a "thrust angle" spec of -0.42 to 0.42. Can someone explain thrust angle.

Total Toe is a condition where the distance between the front of both wheels on a common axle are farther apart than the rear of the same wheels .13 to .29 is the acceptable range.

Thrust angle is the direction that the rear wheels are pointing in relation to the center line of the vehicle. If the thrust angle is not zero, then the vehicle will "dog track" and the steering wheel will not be centered. The best solution is to first adjust the rear toe to the center line and then adjust the front toe. This is normally done during a 4-wheel alignment as long as the rear toe is adjustable. If the rear is not adjustable, then the front toe must be set to compensate for the thrust angle, allowing the steering to be centered

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"Total Toe is a condition where the distance between the front of both wheels on a common axle are farther apart than the rear of the same wheels .13 to .29 is the acceptable range."

I still don't understand the difference between "toe" and "total toe".

>>I still don't understand the difference between "toe" and "total toe".

For the front axle with the steering wheel centralized, or for the rear axle as-is;

Toe is the measurement for one wheel relative to the centreline of the car.

Total toe is the measurement of one wheel relative to the other wheel on the axle.

So, with you steering wheel straight, but with both front wheels pointing right - they may still meet the Total Toe spec if they're nearly parallel to each other, but, will fail the Toe requirement.

If, however both wheels meet their individual Toe spec, you're just about guaranteed to meet the Total Toe spec.

alldata has the specs

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Total toe is simply the total amount the front wheels are either angled in or out relative to the centerline of the vehicle.

If the front of the wheel is angled toward the centerline of the vehicle, that wheel is said to be toed in, and the toe will be a positive number.

Conversely, if the front of the wheel is angled away from the centerline of the vehicle, that wheel is said to be toed out, and the toe will be a negative number.

For example, if you put your vehicle on an alignment rack , and center the steering wheel, and read the toe, one side could be toed out (example -.15) and the other toed in (example +.25) By adding these two numbers, we get the total toe (+.10) If this total toe measurement is in specs for the vehicle in question, tire wear should be ok ( assuming camber is in limits as well)

When the vehicle in the previous example is driven down the road (again assuming camber and caster are ok) the front wheels will align themselves at exactly half the total toe each (+.05 on each side), which will make the steering wheel off center, but again assuming the camber and caster are ok, the vehicle will still drive straight and wear tires normally. The steering wheel will be off center, but this would simply be an annoyance and have no effect on handling and tire wear.

To center the steering wheel on the above vehicle, we would again place the car on the alignment rack, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then adjust each tie rod to obtain exactly half of the total toe spec.(+.05 on each side would give us a total toe of +.10, and the steering wheel would stay centered)

Incidentally, excessive positive toe (toe in) tends to wear the outer part of the tire tread, while excessive negative toe (toe out) tends to wear the inside part of the tire tread (again, assuming for the purposes of this discussion that camber is in spec)

On some suspension designs, a total toe measurement close to zero will cause the car to tend to wander, while other designs provide the best tire wear and handling at this spec.

I hope this helps

Makes sense... thanks.