The timing cover broke on my wagon. From what I've read it was probably caused by a bad belt tensioner arm. Does anybody know of a good guide (pitfalls to avoid, tips and so on) on doing this job and can the piece of aluminum (1.5" x 2") still attached to my tensioner be welded back on the case? Thanks for all and any help.

Search on "gsxr" as the member name.

He suffered the same fate and I'm sure he'd help you with the pitfalls.......and there are many......including the very difficult task of sealing the cover to the head........without removing the head.

Thanks Brian, will do.

Hey guys, here is a link to the thread for my broken timing cover story:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=109058

Note that I elected to pull the engine out and do the work with the motor on a stand, rather than work in the car. It is MUCH easier with the engine out. I know it's more work, but it also allows you to fix many other things at the same time. With the timing cover removed, you should replace ALL the chain rails, and replace the chain if it is anywhere near the stretch limit. You MUST remove the cylinder head to replace the long "banana" chain rail. While this adds some time to the job, it only adds about ~$100 in parts for the gasket kit. I also pulled the oil pan & replaced that gasket as well. The nice thing is, when you're all done, you should have a 100% dry engine (assuming you re-seal the injection pump (~$25 in seals) while things are apart).



Best regards,

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Dave
Boise, ID
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Thanks Dave,

Do you think this is doable in the driveway, I don't have a shop? At least the rain stopped in Seattle for awhile.

Are there any suggestions (Removing the hub from the crankshaft) or serious pitfalls I have to be aware of with this job? Do you think the case can be welded or suggestions on where to locate a used case?

Appreciate your help.

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Maybe a motor mount problem?

That's a big design change in these timing cases. From GSXR's site:http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_timing_cover/timing_covers1.jpg

Still would be interesting to know if there is some PM so other 603 owners could prevent this fate.

You can't weld that. It broke because it is a high stress area, then became overstressed when your belt tensioner failed. It'd cost more than a new (used) cover to have it properly welded and remachined to align the tensioner mount.

As to removing the engine from the car and removing the head and oil pan, probably not a bad idea. If it were me, I wouldn't be able to restrain myself at that point. I'd be pullin' out all the pistons, putting new rings, maybe bearings... rear seal... Sometimes I can't stop myself.

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1987 W201 190D

Well... assuming the driveway is paved or concrete (for jacking), and level ground, anything is possible. Plan on the project taking a week or two, since there are always problems of some sort... this isn't a quick fix. It won't be fun doing this in the car, with the head on the engine. If you don't pull the head, you need to be REALLY careful to not damage either the head gasket or oil pan gasket while pulling the timing cover off... or you'll end up with leaks, or worse yet, have to tear everything apart again to fix it right.




You'll need to remove the radiator to make room for the crank hub puller, and you'll also need the flywheel lock tool to remove the crank bolt, and then a torque wrench capable of 310Nm to re-install the crank bolt. If you pull the head you'll need a few more items (nothing real expensive though). Given the amount of labor involved, there's no way I would put in a used timing case, unless it was the newer casting number... and I'm not sure if those are readily available. A new timing cover (p/n 601-015-06-01) is a bit over $200 wholesale.

I stopped myself at the short block... didn't touch crank, rods, pistons, rings, or anything else in there. Crosshatch all looked good, compression was OK, no oil consumption, etc... didn't see the need to mess with stuff that wasn't broken. And, the cost of rings & bearings was significant... I looked up the prices and that quickly killed any interest in a bottom-end refresh!

To benefit others with this beast, the tension seems to have come from right to left. IOW when I tried to put the broken piece back into the hole the right side was bent and did not seat back into the hole (I'll post pictures later).

Thanks for the info about the cost of the part Dave, I had no idea a new case could be so reasonable. when you say "wholesale" does this mean a part from Mercedes with inside connections?

I sent you an email with some additional info... please let me know if you don't receive it!

Great info about the dealer prices and sources for "dealer only" parts! I had no idea.

A MB tech recommended that I cut away the pan gasket and then just use (insert favorite gasket goo here) to aid reinstall. I know you didn't have this difficulty since you pulled engine, but what do you think of that tactic?

Thanks again for that detailed email about parts and case sealant.

Ugh. That would make me very nervous... if it leaks, the labor required to fix it is enormous. Which is why I pulled the engine and changed all the gaskets at once. However, if MB dealer techs have used this technique successfully, I'd say it's worth a try, if you're careful not to use too much sealant (you don't want it falling down inside in globs that could plug the oil pump inlet screen). I would also ask them exactly what sealant they are using, and use the SAME stuff. Gasket goos are not all created equal! Some work better than others, particularly in an application with an oil bath, where there is a 1/16-1/8" gap you're trying to fill (where the composite gasket would normally reside).

If you're in it for the long haul, now would be an interesting time to step up to an OM606 timing cover, which will afford you the opportunity to use the more robust and less accident prone "direct-drive" vacuum pump found on those engines.

Auspumpen, thanks for the thought. I don't think I'm in for the long haul with this bird--rough interior and some body, rust issues. It loves to run though. I never owned a car that just seems to love the freeway like this one, we'll see.

Dave, the tech did mention a special goop and I'll definitely use that. I hope someone else comments about doing this without pulling the head--it was off 3K ago.

I've been reading about the different methods for removing/reinstalling the crank bolt. I'll try and borrow/rent a tool for the hold down of the crank.

Thanks much.