My 1998 E300 TD (W210) starts fairly well on a cold engine, but on a hot engine it can take up to 60 seconds to start!

We've replaced countless things, including all o-rings, most of the hoses and connectors, and even the electro hydraulic shutoff valve.

This problem is still happening.

Anyone seen this?

ANy ideas?

Prolly the Injection-Pump....

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

hmm. thats what i was afraid of. is it just gaskets / o-rings in there, or would it need to be mechanically rebuilt / replaced?

whunter knows a place that rebuilds them if this is problem but you may not need it rebuilt. More experts here than me. Hope you get the answer and I hope you don't need a rebuild.

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1982 300SD

What fuel are you using? Is it hard to start warm on pump diesel as well?

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

I haven't been running biodiesel lately, just diesel and WVO

i've got a frybrid system in there, and the strange thing is that when i switch from diesel to VO, it doesn't miss a beat. But when I switch back from VO to diesel after running hot, the car often stalls (and will take 90 seconds of cranking to start), the fuel line seems to have lost pressure.

I would establish if the injection pump is still good. Try feeding injection pump from a can with vegatable oil. Turn engine off when up to operating temp and see if it will start again. If it does repeat the proccedure with straight diesel from a can as well. .

If it will start cold with the diesel but not hot. First check for overflow from the relief valve as that fuel flow cools the injection pump. Find and repair the reason the pump is not cooling properly but it may be too late.

The second test is basically to eliminate any presence of air when feeding with diesel. If it will not pass the second test and there is good overflow from the return line it could be the injection pump has been trashed.

2 or 3 valve frybrid?

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

How do you Dry your WVO..?

Settling is NOT enough, settling will not remove the entrained moisture that will corrode the elements in the pump on a microscopic level. The FFA content also adds to the problem by making this entrained moisture Acidic...

--The running clearances of diesel-pumps are mega-precision and even surface-corrosion of those plungers/elements will mean they become toast....

As a test, When its hot, and the fault occurs, Cool down pump with hose-pipe and try and re-start. If starts reasonably easily, then there is your fault. Pump elements destroyed by 'wet' veggy...

__________________
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

My OM617.95x stars in two seconds or less, hot or cold, on B100 or D2.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

As alistair said, if changing the temperature of the IP turns the problem on or off, it's probably a worn IP. Reproduce the fault, and hose the IP down. and everthing else he said.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

I will try tonite but I suspect that hosing down the IP will fix the problem.

Does this mean that I need new gaskets / orings on the IP or that I need an entirely new IP?

Thanks!


Regarding the VO, this problem happens even if i do not switch to VO at all. Good pointers on VO quality, thanks for the tips!

Actually on 2nd thought, it will NOT help, because when i switch back to Diesel from VO, the car stalls. That tells me that something BELOW the switch is leaking! (see diagram, the RED line)

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