Just noticed that I measured between valve and lifter rather than between lifter and cam when I adjusted my 617 valves . . . uh, oh . . . . I wonder what the variance will be when I readjust . . any guesses? Car seems to run fine

I vote for: pretty d@mn close if you were careful about what you did.

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forgot to guess... They should be looser than intended.. .which means none of the valves are hanging open.

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Loose better than tight, but either way, tomorrow I must adjust first thing -practice makes perfect!

i still haven't gotten up the guts to adjust my own valves. it's not the job that scares me, it's all the crap that has to come off the valve cover first. i just know i'll either:

Break something
Loose something
Mis-adjust something
Put it back together and have parts left over

good attitude about your mistake though, practice does make perfect.

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1985 300D - 1984 Euro 280E AMG Clone (SOLD) - 1978 280CE (SOLD) - 1983 300D (SOLD) - 1981 300D (SOLD)

thanks, not so bad really and I am confident that I can adjust all and reassemble in about and 1.25 hours. Valve cover gasket is a pain if you are not careful -big leak the first time!

All learning experiences.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

I think this is a pretty common mistake, I have heard others who have done it as well. The best advice I can give is to take some pictures of the throttle linkage before you go at it. Plus, taking the air cleaner off gives you mroe room to work on the other side. Helper is definitely a plus - my dad and I did it all within 5 hours for the first time including replacing 5 stubborn glow plugs. I am confident I could do it within 2. Don't get too nervous just go in and have at it!

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

It is a good idea to get an old towel and fold it up and place it behind the injection pump... to keep it warm and cozy.... not actually... if you drop any tools into that space it can be hard to retrieve them...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

When I did mine the first time, that`s the way I did them, seemed to be a logical way to to it. the engine ran ok, didn`t notice any out of the ordinary. then it hit me later on, "you dip sh17" one of those DUHHHH moments I get every now and then.

when I first remove the valve cover, I run a rag around the head to wipe up any oil along the edge. I also reuse the VC gasket as long as I can, doesn`t leak so why spend the money? Iam a cheap old bast___.

The hardest part is removing and replacing the cover, if there is anything it will hang up on it will, and the gasket, always stays on until the last moment. Iam sure someone will say, "seee, this is why you replace them".

first time to do the MB I was a little nervous about it. done lots of other valve adjustments. but the MB was just different. now it is a piece of cake.

clean off the pipe that runs along the cam shaft, and mark it with a felt marker with "I" and "E" for intake and exhaust next to each valve, or use red or blue paint spot for easy identification.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Good points, I just use DieselGiants print out sheet to keep me organized on which valve intake/exhaust and mark off as I turn the ps nut

A simpler approach would involve noting whether the valve is adjacent to an intake port or an exhaust port. No paint required.

good advice, i always drop a socket or wrench and always have to go fishing lol

not a hard job, at first it can take hours but i can get it done in about 1 hour now

hardest part is getting the valve cover off and on, must twist and bend and shimmy it on and off lol

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1985 300D - 599,xxxk - blue interior #265 Monark Nozzle, AL129X, 15" Ronals, Gen II Big Brakes hunting
1985 300D - 491,xxxk - in prog-{A-A IC, 3" exhaust, psi\pyro, 28*BTDC, Hella Euros, IP Limiter removal
1985 300TD - 783,xxxk - parts car,used new engine with ALDA cap inplace
1987 Kenworth T-600 8LL 425 CAT Mech. - 6,000,000+k - DEI exhaust wrap, punched through resonators, 1 recent rebuild,

Removing the cruise control actuator will eliminate much of that difficulty.

I always put a good coating of bearing grease inside the gasket. It wont hurt anything and really holds the gasket in place. If you can find the Haynes book for your model, it will show how to reconnect all the parts, and it will also show which valves are in or out. Bill.