W124 D200 (overheating,injection & valve timing)

Hello everyone here

anyone could help me with the setting of the injection pump for W124 D200

overheating and valve timing with the injection timing ???

this car is for my close friend and I was thinking to help him but I guess I screwed up !

firstly the problem was getting overheating just after starting the let it run for about 20 minutes
the gauge jumps up and if I drive soon it passes 90
so I checked the radiater ok thermostat OK belt tension OK water pump OK
so I flush the engine to get rid of any blockage items and even I was thinking that there might be air blocked inside and I put water again and let the cap of the expansion tank out
and I start the engine without athermostat just to check and still getting overheated very quickly
I expect the trouble is the cylinder head gasket because once I start the the engine the water jumps out
from the expansion tank but there is no oil in the expansion tank and no compression leak and once I accelarate no more water flashing out anyway
I checked the valve timing and I find out that piston no1 was seted to 15 BTDC and when I checked the timing through the internet I found out that no1 is 15 but ATDC
so I took out the radiater and took out the valve cover turn the crankshaft but couldn't get my 15 ATDC I got just 5 or 20 ATDC maybe the timing chain needs to reduce I don't know
so the camshaft is alighned with the timing mark and I set it to 5 ATDC then I loosen the chain tensionerand I took out bolt of the camshaft gear sprocket and moved away the gear from the camshaft
and I turn just crankshaft clockwise to 5 ATDC and and I put back everything in position and I start the engine first didn't start but shortly start and the sound of the engine is very roughly so I moved to
the second step and I set to 20 ATDC also start but after I loosen the 3 mounted bolts of the injection pump and I turn the adjusting screw left to advance but again the sound of the engine vey roughly and has white smoke
and I think I heard something like piston knocking so I stoped direct the engine and returned to the old valve timing which is 15 BTDC but now because I turned the adjusting screw I screwed myself and
didn't get the old stable running engine even after I adjust back the adjusting screw and now I have a white exhaust smoke and the engine is running very rough .

this is my story

I don't have the position sesor RIV to set the start opening of the no1 outlet of the injection pump

thanks for reading

love to see some replies from the experts

regards

umm, have you read your post?

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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

I think it's written in English

Have you ????

itsalljustkindacrammedtogetherandhardtoread. getit?

__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

Ididntreadasinglewordsinceitsinthisformat

__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

so my first question is, what made you change the timing? because it was overheating? as far as the overheating goes, sound like you need to start with a pressure test and a test for combustion gasses. you will see some water movement right away if you have the t-stat out.

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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

Begin your diagnosis by measuring temp with a meat thermometer. Check thermostat for proper opening. On most cars you can start with the engine cold.

Put a thermometer in the radiator & start the car. Radiator temp should remain nearly constant until the thermostat opens & the radiator heats rapidly with the now flowing coolant. This should happen at the specified opening temp of the thermostat.

A constantly heating radiator indicates a leaking thermostat. If car over heats & radiator never gets hot, thermostat is stuck closed. I haven't tried this on the MBZ. It doesn't work on the diesel ram as it never gets warm enough at idle to open the thermostat.

I've taken the liberty of posting your assistance request over on mbclubforumuk:
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/74183-w124-d200-problems.html#post823034

you can view any replys over there.

We never got the D200 series engine in the W124 chassis.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

why I change the timing because this car since was bought from the owner it was stopped and according to the owner said the only problem was the timing not adjusted well so my friend took it to a mechanic but he is not familiar with diesel and he thaught that he adjusted the timing and he made it run but it's getting over heat very fast so I took a look at the car and I check all the cooling system firstly and there was no problem then I jumped over the timing and because before I was not having any idea about this model and that's why I asked to get some information about this type of model but I kept in searching and searching 'til I found some informations that might help me and then I took out the valve cover turned the crankshaft right until the mark align and no1 cam lobes facing out and when I checked the crankshaft I found the mark is not at "T" TDC but it was on 15 BTDC therefore I loosen the chain tensioner and removed the supported bolt of the camshaft gear sprocket and moved it away from the camshaft then turned the crankshaft pully right to "T" TDC .

now I have to set and check the opening delivery of the injection pump
after a long search I found out the timing for the injection pump for models 1984 to 1988 is 15 (+1 or -1) ATDC but to get the exact reading you have to have whether the position sesor RIV or the Digital Testers but I don't have them both so I removed no1 pressure line of the injection pump and I removed also the plug of the governer and I bring a mirror and flash light and a small bolt to stick it inside the hole until the bolt had held while I turn the crankshaft gently right I observed the diesel just start from no1 outlet and when I check the reading on the crankshaft pulley,it was 11 ATDC not 15 ATDC so I put back everything and I tried to start it so the sound of the engine sounds normal while turning but not starting,and I even loosen the mounted bolts of the injection pump and adjusted the adjusting screw of the injection pump for direction Retarder and Advance but no chance to start it,finally I brought a piece of rag that has petrol and I wrapped the intake manifold and turned the engine and yes started but the engine very roughly and jumping .

now I just worried and I hope the valves not bent from my first old setting while I put the camshaft on mark and piston no1 at 20 ATDC accidently then I started cranking for couple of seconds,I should make now compression test to be sure of no compression leak but I don't have it .

this is what I did so far

and thanks all for reading

anyone familiar with the notch or the lug of the governer to get the exact timing of the OM601 diesel injection pump through the hole of the governer

any picture of this lug

Hello all

finally I got it started now no more white smoke and the engine is running very smoothly and sounds OK
the only probelm is still getting overheating and reaches nearly 100 plus on idling speed while the car is on a stand position
but while driving on a high way the tempreture is OK and doesn't pass 90 and I'm testing it without a thermostat becaeuse my friend brought me a thermostat with openning tempreture 65 celsius
so I decide temporary no need for putting it because I told him to bring a 80 celsius opening thermostat
and now I'm trying to find out the cause of this trouble

and here what I did so far to get the OM601 diesel injection pump adjusted for those who might face this trouble

after a long struggle of the injection pump adjusting here is the steps without the need of taking out the injection pump
so it's faster for you and to save time and the main idea is that you will be fine from getting air in the fuel system and to avoid removing the oil filter

- disconnect the battery terminal

- take out the valve cover

- you should be sure your piston no1 TDC and both cam lobes of no1 facing out which means both vales closed

- then turn the crankshaft right to 15 ATDC (marked on the pulley)

- engage the gearbox so not to move

- take out the vaccum pump then remove the inside sheild

- just loosen the camshaft gear bolt (17) support and then take out the chain tesioner

- remove no1 line from the injection pump outlet to the injector and blow out the remained diesel on the outlet no1 injection pump by small hose or anything

- remove the air filter and housing to have enough space

- remove 17 plug of the injection pump governor

- bring a mirror and flash light

- face the mirror in the front of the plug governor

- now remove the 17 bolt of the camshaft gear and take out the gear from the camshaft

- hold the timing chain by hand

- here is the most important part,bring 17 socket and T-handle with extension and turn the gear of the injection pump clockwise gently and observe the no1 outlet of the injection pump until diesel starts to comes out,
during this action watch through the hole by the mirror the position of the inside lug of the governor and once the diesel is coming out you see that the lug of the governor inside the hole just starting to show up
and keep turning the the injection pump gear more clockwise gently and keep looking at the same time at the crankshaft of not being turned and well located at the mark 15 ATDC and once you notice the diesel rises and overflow the outlet
you see that the lug just start closing the hole, in this situation your pump is set to nearly 15 ATDC therefore keep holding the 17 bolt that supporting the injection pump gear by helping someone and then you put back
the chain timing on the camshaft gear sprocket and be sure that the chain timing side to the injection pump side is tight to avoid your timing out of range then torque your camshaft gear and put back the chain tensioner bolt and tight it .

- now put back every thing in position (the inside sheild,vaccum pump,hoses,injection pump 3 support bolts and nuts,line pipe of the injection pump,air filter,vale cover,fan,radiater )
and torque them to specified manufacturer

congratulations the car now is starting and you can adjust the engine running or exhaust smoke is after you let the engine running and reach 80 degree celsius of tempreture now stop the engine and loosen the injection pump supported bolts to avoid oil flashing out while engine running and turn the adjusting screw right for Retarder or left for Advance,
run the engine again and check the difference if not change the direction of the adjusting screw and if you see no more smoke from the exhaust then tight the injection pump bolts and nuts,
and to adjust the engine idling is done by running the engine also to working tempreture 80 Celsius and loosen 17 counter nut at the back of the injection pump and turn the 15 vaccum control unit nut as required then tight back the 17 counter nut for locking position and now the engine sounds pretty good and powerfull .


finally the engine is running smoothly and no more white smoke without thermostat but while the car is running on a stand position (idling speed) the engine is getting overheat very fast but on the road the tempreture is OK and not passing 90 Celsius,
and I notice some water bubbles and water is coming out from the expansion tank and there is no oil in the expansion tank,
Is the problem will be the head gasket or air blocked in the system ?

I'm waiting for your replies

thanks for reading

best regards

1. No Thermostat/Or Incorrect Temperature Range
2.I don't like what sounds like might be compression pressure in the cooling system...The "Air" bubbles AND the Coolant expelled from the overflow tank.
(The coolant expulsion COULD be explained by a faulty/improper overflow tank
cap.)

A.Borrow or rent a Cooling system pressure tester AND test for water-tightness.
(If it ain't holding pressure when tested and you can't find any leaks...It Might
be a head gasket)[Is top radiator hose "Tight"/HARD in the morning,when the engine hasn't run all night?]
B.Get the correct Thermostat for your engine.
C.If everything else is O.K. I'd still throw a New Overflow Tank Pressure Cap at it.

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128