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#1
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Lost all guage illumination
yep, sure did.. As well as any illumination for the switches and AC control panel.
Checked fuses and even replaced them and still nothing. It was weird, I was driving just fine with everything illuminated and stopped to fuel up and turned the car back on and had nothing illuminated. After playing with it I decided to check fuses and replaced the fuses for the illumination of switches and gauges.. any ideas? |
#2
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Rheostat?
__________________
1979 240D, 4spd manual, Power Sunroof, manual windows, 147k miles, Pastel gray/Black MB Tex. 1991 300D 2.5 - Smokes like it's on Crack! |
#3
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maybe, I did not even think of fiddling with that.. I actually haven't touched it since I got the car
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#4
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Just by-pass the rheostat,solder a wire across the 2 terminals on the rheostat itself until you can get a new one, or just leave it like that.
Wiggle the knob back and forth first.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#5
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yep mine was all the way down and when I went to turn it up nothing the dash lights would just flicker, indicative of a bad connection somewhere. I sprayed some contactor cleaner into the dimmer rod clearance of the dash, (carefully). I havent had a problem since. Bad grounds do terrible things.
Have a great day!
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Regards, Ian White 1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606 2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo 2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past) 1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past) |
#6
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move your dimmer a bit. They will come back quickly. If not, the grounding circuit in the speedometer grid may be shorted.
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Pierre Hedary 1985 280SEL, 1970 111.026 in progress Mercedes technical advice hotline: 407 765 2867 [servicing older Mercedes in the state of Florida with competence and passion]. From the standpoint of an honest MB technician, Vegetable oil is a threat to your diesel engine's mechanical integrity. |
#7
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its the rheostat.. played with it and they came back.. I dont know why I did not think of that.
looks like I might need a new one. edit.. screw that I am not paying $90-120 for a rheostat...I'll do the solder trick. |
#8
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If you "wipe" the contact by turning the knob back and forth many, many times it will often solve the problems with a rheostat that has some dead spots and also revive those which are DOA. Be patient and just keep turning. Sometimes they are beyond repair but often times after a few hundred "wipes" they work perfectly.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#9
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I managed to repair an old rheostat I had for my 300D, simply by (CAREFULLY!) disassembling it, and using electronics cleaner to make sure the contacts are shiny and clean. Granted, if the guts of it are falling apart, this trick won't work - but it did for me. A little brillo to gently scrub any corrosion off the contacts can help, too.
I did this to mine, let it dry off, carefully reassembled it, and now I have working rheostat again. If all else fails? The soldered wire trick always works.
__________________
_______________________________ (Oo{=|=}oO) 1983 MB 300D USA, 212,000mi. 80's yellow/white. "Gunther" (Oo{=|=}oO) 1984 MB 300D Euro, Turbo Added in Germany, 186,000mi [SOLD] Missing her dearly. (Oo{=|=}oO) 1984 MB 300D USA Turbodiesel, 269,000mi. [SOLD] |
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