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#1
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Curious to know the voltage reading when you start the car with the reconditioned battery? I usually ditch a battery when starter draws it down to 10.3 volts.
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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000 1995 E300D 306,000 Sold 1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold 1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold 2016 Ford Fusion 24,900 |
#2
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i actually never put a meter on it after intstalling it in the bike. i could tell just by the sound that it didnt drop much. im sure someone will get on here and argue with me shortly. about how it wont work, or its dangerous, even though i stated that this is close to how exide does it. ![]()
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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it ![]() |
#3
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OOPS..... I stand corrected. I pulled my receipts and the battery was installed new in May 1996. That means it is 13 years old. I agree that normal battery life is 3-4 years though on newer cars. Our 2003 Honda Odyssey battery lasted 4 years, my daughter's 2000 Camry lasted 5 years. Now, the battery in my 1967 VW Beetle that is driven about 1000 miles per year has been in there since I replaced it in 1997. Remember, old cars have like nothing that will draw the battery down while it sits. I do not even have an electric clock in the Beetle. It is garage kept and I charge it about twice a year with a trickle charger. As I said earlier, the battery in my 07 BMW has to be on a trickle charger when it sits for a week at a time. Even though BMW claims it has a SLEEP mode, this car will continually drain the battery. Too much electronic stuff in it.
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John 1986 300sdl 1985 380se |
#4
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My white MB battery is about 2.5 years old now....working great. My dad got just over 10 years (based on the date stamp) from the Energizer that was in one of his SD's....it just gave up one day, real low voltage, no start.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#5
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if you really like that battery so much, i would check the water in the battery. Other wise i would just buy a mercedes battery at your local MB dealership, I think MB battery are made by bosch.
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Current Garage 2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress 1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs 2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver 1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car 1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap?? Sold 1987 300SDL 200K+ 1994 S320 181K mi 2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi 1999 S420 130K mi 1980 240D 360k mi 15+ Others that has come, stay and gone GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN ![]() 1995 E320 SE 220k mi 1984 300SD 350k mi |
#6
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Just changed mine it was an Advanced Auto Store Titanium. It lasted 5 years. I put back in same battery as 5 years is a good life to me. I hear Interstates are the best but I have no supplier and Advance tests and installs. 13 year is amazing also! I hear the clocks drains batteries on a 300SD so when I garage mine I Trickle charge it.
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1982 300SD |
#7
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The reason that Exide can equalize-charge a battery bank is because the battery bank is designed for the cycle. Car batteries, ... are not.
Deep-cycle flooded-cell batteries differ in many ways from car batteries: the plates are usually thicker and fiberglass-reinforced to handle the heat of long charge cycles and stay together when sulfated, the space beneath the cells is usually deeper to handle more sluffed-off lead-sulfate from operation and charging/equalizing, etc. Also, for equalizing batteries the voltage must be carefully controlled, not just an open charger with a voltage floating higher as the load decreases. Active boiling must be controlled. Shotgun-style equalization as outlined above might or might not work, but remember that you're creating lots of hydrogen gas (which is of course explosive), overheating a battery that isn't designed for it, and boiling sulfuric-acid. Might work, might fail, might be catastrophic. I only equalize batteries that are designed for it, with proper safety and procedural steps taken, using a computer-controlled charger/inverter designed for and matched to the battery bank. Oh, and the original battery still starts my wife's '96 Ford with 110,000miles, even when she leaves the dome lights on all night. Might check into the source of the US Bosch batteries, I've been told that they are JCI / sourced in the US.
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#8
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im on 12 years on my interstate battery in my 240D
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#9
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IMO, the death of many batteries in vintage cars (definately including diesel Mercedes through the late '90s) is incomplete charging and frequent/shallow cycling. Put a big alternator on your 'Benz to charge while idling with the lights on, and your battery will thank you.
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#10
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Quote:
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'98 E300 turbodiesel |
#11
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This killed my Die Hard in my SD just recently... well the fully working HVAC system did. The puny alt was just not able to charge the car at idle/my city driving with the lights on, blower on max, HVAC relays on, clutch engaged, etc Bought a 150A, problem solved. I never encountered this issue on my other stuff as I have upgraded the alts in all of those already... did not dawn upon me to be proactive and swap it. Oh well. I was told the big issue with the small alts and these batteries is that they are almost all not Maintenance-Free which does not allow them to charge well.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. ![]() '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#12
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which alternator did you use on your w126 300sd? would be curious since my 300dt has essentially the same engine |
#13
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UPDATE:
I am driving the BMW this week. I pulled the battery out of the 300SDL and have been charging it with a trickle charger for two days now. I charged it for 6 hours on Sunday. It went to 13.04 Volts and then on Monday it settled at 12.5 volts. I charged it Monday for 6 hours and it went to 13.1 volts and I could hear it " cooking". I unplugged and this morning it was still at 12.5 volts. I will let it sit all day then charge it again tonite. I know it would be a whole lot easier to just go buy a new battery, but I do not need the car this week and I want to play with the battery and charger. I am going to do this till Friday night and then re-install it on Saturday and see if it works. If it does not work, Saturday it is new battery day.
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John 1986 300sdl 1985 380se |
#14
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So true, the alternator really needs that big capacitor and so do the car's accessories.
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#15
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John,
O'Reilly Auto Parts can generally get anything you want in a matter of a few days... I generally avoid AutoZone cause they tend to try to sell you whatever is on the shelf instead of taking the trime and trouble to order the part you prefer. If the battery lasted that long, I highly doubt that you have issues elsewhere in the charging system...If it ain't broke, don't fix it...However, It is probably a good idea to replace your battery cables if they are the same age or older. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/home.oap
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Bama1 ![]() 2008 SLK 280, Firemist Red - "Hurricane" 2001 F150 Lariat 4x4, Black on Black - "Badboy" 1982 240D 4 speed survivor -"Pearl" - Donated to Vietnam Veterans 1962 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 -"Gertrude" 1954 model original owner - ~2.5M Gray softtop/solid exterior/modified chassis ![]() ![]() Last edited by Bama1; 09-01-2009 at 01:18 AM. |
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