Hello all,

Allright here is pic of the window motor for 86' 300 SDL. The OEM is "hard wired". The new motor has a "plug" Adapter style connection. Would my local autoparts store be any help? Does anyone else have an idea of an at home style modification? Your thoughts and expertise are desired.

My thoughts are cut wires from old motor, find crimp on style connector, connect wires accordingly ( grounded and ungrounded) and install on new motor.

Thanks for your time.

Ben

Attached Thumbnails

 

Your thoughts on what to do are correct.

That one in the pic that is "hard wired" is not an OEM....that is a previous owner hack job. OEM look like your new one.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

That would work. Not that it matters, but which terminal is grounded depends on which way the window is operating. If the window works backwards, reverse the wires.

I agree w/ PawoSD....I just did this job in the wagon last week due to bad teeth non my regulator gear. I had a used replacement for my regulator that came with the motor. I wanted to use my original switch and wiring, so I just unsoldered the wires from the original one and resoldered them onto the replacement. Was able to leave the wiring in place in the door.

So in your case, just cut the wires at the old motor and solder them to the motor terminals on the replacement.

__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

Thanks for all the replies. I got the issue worked out and installed the motor, now the motor will continue to crank on the regulator when in the all-the-way up or down position. Is there a stop limit "something" somewhere on the motor????

By design, the motor runs until the switch is released.

Not sure that's true - mine stops when the window is all the way up or down if you keep the switch engaged.

__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

My 85 doesn`t have a stop on the motor. when the window is all the way up, and the motor pushes the window up hard, the door panel tends to flex.

I think this is what causes the window regulator to break, also causes extra stress on the motor gears.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Mine appears to try to stay moving as long as the switch is pushed also. However, on 123s there is a Power Window Relay behind the Instrument Cluster. Perhaps some Relays are more sensative than others and will cutoff the current to the Motors.

I have not read of anyone replacing a Power Window Relay or what type of trouble they cause when they go bad? Does anyone know?

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That is only because it can't go any farther.

Its called stalling/killing the window motors.

None of the older cars have a limiter on the windows...only the later ones like the W124 with auto-down and such.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I've purchased several window motors from Napa. For several different make/model vehicles. Most recently an 84 Ford Van, and a 97 Ford Crown Vic. Every time I get one from them I have to cut the wiring "Pig Tail", off the old motor, and crimp & heatshrink the wires with the electrical plug onto the new motor. This just seems to be standard proceedure for window motor replacement. I've never had one come through with the plug end ready to just plug in, so far. This I believe is due to the fact that so many manufacturers, make so many different design changes. Some changes are made more than once in the same year. The manufacturers buy parts from the lowest bidder, as long as it meets the specs they need. That could be the issue you are dealing with.

__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

The manual shows a mechanical limiter at least on an 85SD. FWIW, salvage yard sells regulator with motors because of slight differences that make some regulators incompatible with some motors. Apparently, all install if they are a set.