So, I did a job for a friend and replaced the leaking head gasket on his '87 190d 2.5 non turbo. I am a diesel tech but work on large engines so not new to diesels.

However, I have never been this deep in a mercedes. Got everything back together and it doesn't seen to run quite right like the pump timing is retarded. I marked everything and then put it all back together but obviously something is not the same. The head was not machined, injectors were tested.

I've searched for info for quite a while but I don't even know if the engine is a 602 or a 617 or what.

Lets assume I am starting from zero, how do I get the cam, crank, and pump all in time so it works like it should?

I know it's a 602! There are many threads on OM602 and 603 head R&R. They are basically the same engine, except the 603 has 6 cyl instead of 5.

Might be able to find help by searching. If you can wait till tomorrow I'm sure you'll get lots of help.

__________________
1979 240D, 4spd manual, Power Sunroof, manual windows, 147k miles, Pastel gray/Black MB Tex.
1991 300D 2.5 - Smokes like it's on Crack!

thanks

I searched for several hours last night and couldn't find a step-by-step procedure to get everything in time. If someone could give me a link that would be great.

thanks

the problem with the 60x engines is that they are more precise engines and Mercedes wants to use more precise methods of timing them. Some of the factory methods are RIV, A/B lights, and standard installation with locking pin. All require special tools, the cheapest of which is the locking pin - most labor instenive


The other method, which is NOT factory approved is the 'well-up' method. Use this at your own discretion, but it is certainly reliable 'enough' if you know what you are doing... especially if you are a diesel tech.

__________________

So I'm still working on this darn thing. Somebody please tell my why it won't run.

I set the crank at TDC and lined up the mark on the cam with the cam bearing cap. I'd guess about 1.5 degrees of stretch. I then rotated the engine clockwise to almost 15degrees after TDC. I pulled the cover plug off of the side of the injection pump and adjusted the pump a tiny bit until the tab was in the very middle of the opening in the side of the pump. I know I need the actual tool to make it perfect but it should be close shouldn't it? it cranks like mad and I have tried to bleed all the injection lines but still nothing

if you got that link I sent, look up the IP installation procedure. Looks like thats what you are attempting to do and it sounds like you've done it right.


Bleeding these style engines is a @#$@/. Some tips:
Fill the fuel filter completely
Crank the engine @ WOT with the injector lines loose on the injectors only (only crank in 10 second intervals for starter health)

once you see fuel spilling out of each and every single one of them, you are set to tighten up

__________________

Thanks, Got the link and checked out the installation section. Seems like it should be right so hopefully it's just air.

Thanks again

You had the head off. Find the centering tang in the injection pump port. Then check to verify the cams first two lobes are generally pointing somewhat upward. If they are pointing somewhat downward you have the pump installed on the wrong stroke as far as injection pump timing and cam phasing is concerned. This could have occured when you removed the head and had the cam sprocket off. Kind of common I suppose.

May be something simpler of course and hope it is. Just thought I might mention it if you are scratching your head. Easy enough to check.

the cam lobes are up and the mark on the cam was aligned with the mark on the cam bearing. The crank was also at TDC. I then turned the crank to 15 degrees after TDC and centered the alignment notch in the side of the pump so it should be all good.

Sounds like you covered it. As long as you only moved the damper 15 degrees from top dead centre. If you did a major part of a turn to arrive at the fifteen degrees then the pump would be off cycle. since you are a working mechanic it is more than likely you really already know what you are doing.

Next i would try feeding wd 40 into the intake with a helper and letting the engine run on it until fuel is established. After the air filter of course. If you have compression and glow plugs the engine should run pretty well on a spray of wd 40. No harm possible like when using starting fluid.

Then if the engine does not start it will get interesting.