I am swapping an engine from a 85sd, to an 83.
I have it out, and would like your opinion...

Wht engine has 250-300K on it. I was thinking about droping the pistons out the bottom, and re-ringing, and replacing the bearings before installing it into the 83. It does have some blow buy, but not real bad.
What would you do?
Why?

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

the only issue with slapping new rings on there is that they may not set correctly. You have to break the glaze on the cylinder walls. But I would read up on that, I'm not sure what the limits or indications are.

If the bearings are not damaged ,they do not need to be exchanged, just keep them in order.

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You can't take the pistons out of the bottom. The casting of the block prevents the pistons from coming all the way out from the bottom. You have to pull them out from the top.

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JT: As I recall from member spock605 and his euro om 605 he talked to meyle and they said to not glaze break or bottle hone the cylinders.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=248826

BLACKESTATE: I have swapped motors several times, as I had a "good" replacement engine that was garbage. It had a bad piston/bore. In my opinion, and as I have learned from working on these cars don't fix something that isn't broken, it usually takes a lot of time, patience and $. As long as you're comfortable with how it sounds, responds, and feels, regardless of the blowby, I would set it w/o pulling anything. I would however, pull the oil pan sump off and see what kind of guk is in the oil pickup tube screen, just because it takes 10 minutes to get it off, plus you'll be able to see # 1 and # 2 cylinders, check for any scoring or scratching. If all looks well, you have an engine that is ready to go another 250K. When installing I would recommend checking the IP timing, replacing the timing chain, and adjusting the valves while you're in the mindset to work on your old MB. Hope this helps! Keep us posted on how everything is going. Also be sure to checkout the rental tool program this forum has, you'll need a couple 'special-ish' tools to make removal a little smoother... Again, GOOD LUCK

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Regards,
Ian White

1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)

If you start to tear it down you will keep encountering items that you will want to replace. Before you know it you will be into rings, bearings, all the seals, etc, and lots of $.

As indicated, stick to items like timing set, that need to be replaced every so many miles anyway.

Then degrease it and paint it!

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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

I would also check the oil pump chain on the bottom in a turbo motor. If it has had decent care the cam chain will probably be good but the pump chain is very short so will get four or five times the wear in a given mileage. and if it breaks it is catastrophic.

I believe that is what happened to Craig's motor and I know he is pretty good about keeping clean oil in it.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

thank you. good catch. good info.

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