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  #16  
Old 11-30-2009, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskeydan View Post
How much rust? If it cast a shadow maybe $500-750. If not, then maybe $200-300 for the parts plus what scrap there may be.
Not much rust. I'd say 1"x2" on the front quarter panels, smaller sizes on the rear. And I didn't see any rust under the car, but I was just lying on my back looking under there & didn't have it up on jacks or anything.

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  #17  
Old 11-30-2009, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Klima relay is a common AC failure point on the 85's.
Ok. So where does that leave me?
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  #18  
Old 11-30-2009, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Codifex Maximus View Post
The car sounds to me like it deserves a closer look.
If the interior is sound, except for that leaning seat, that's big plus. Why is the seat leaning or busted?
If there is no major rust in the body or dents - another big plus.
Also, the engine is low mileage - if indeed the odo is working?
I'm thinking no more than $1000 based on your initial description. You could prolly get it for $500 maybe less.
The passenger seat is busted because an enormously fat woman with a steel hip rode in it all the time.

There's no major rust (as compared to my 220D) and there's only 1 small ding.

The odometer works.
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  #19  
Old 11-30-2009, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by The220D View Post
Ok. So where does that leave me?
It leaves you with a wife that does not support this project. Be verrrrrry verrrrrry careful. Thanks
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  #20  
Old 11-30-2009, 09:22 PM
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You don't need the turbo to climb hills. Betcha the turbo's fine, it would be funny if it were just fuel filters or something.

Go for it, give her 800 or so. Possibly less.
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  #21  
Old 11-30-2009, 09:32 PM
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yah if your not using any oil i doubt theres anything wrong with the turbo. undo the little banjo bolt at the back of the intake and clean it out, if that doesn't work try unscrewing the alda to see if it picks up.
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Diesel all the way!!!
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  #22  
Old 11-30-2009, 10:37 PM
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"The passenger seat is busted because an enormously fat woman with a steel hip rode in it all the time."

... sounds like one of those sinister characters from an old James Bond movie...

... hmmm... might want to check driver to passenger (left/right) ride height. And passenger door/hinge operation/alignment if it's that bad - some folks like to hang on them to get in and out...
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  #23  
Old 12-01-2009, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The220D View Post
My neighbor is getting rid of her 1985 300D. It has 171K, but needs a new turborcharger (she was quoted $3K!!!) and the A/C doesn't work. The front passenger seat also tilts (I assume / think it is a broken bracket in the rear where it mounts to the floor), there is some rust on the 4 quarter panels but not much, and there are a couple of cracks in the dash. She has owned it for the past 16 years and has performed standard maintenance (and has the records).

I'm in the market for another old Mercedes, so I'm somewhat interested. My questions are:

1- What is it worth? She doesn't have an asking price. She just wants me to make an offer.
2- If I buy a turbocharger (I've seen them for $350-$850) can I put it in myself? I'm game for wrenching but not an expert by any means.
3- Any idea what it will run me for a new A/C system?
4- Am I crazy for even considering buying this car given the issues identified, including the rust? My wife is not supportive of this potential new project....

Thanks for the advice!
Hi
Its not a prize - I'd offer $500 and be very surprised if she gets more.
The turbo problem will turn many folks off as will the rust. Most will see it as a parts car.

Here in Houston, turbos are pretty common in the junk yards for under $100.

Broken seats can be repaired at low expense.

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Joseph
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  #24  
Old 12-01-2009, 04:03 PM
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rust is a show stopper if it is in certain areas. Where I live, AC is necessary in the summer, so that is a non-starter. A bad turbo, unless it creates drivability issues, isnt a huge concern, as likely a better price can be found.

If I was looking for a car to buy cheap, drive a year and then scrap, or use for parts, this may be it. I wouldnt make a car with that many ailments into a project car - youll go crazy.

<$1000 unless all rust could be fixed by replacement parts (e.g. front quarter panels are the only things rusty and they can be replaced from a junkyard) and the other repairs can be done cheaply.

Even then, youll likely throw $3000 to make the car right no matter how you see it.

Id make it a one-year clunker, then get rid of it for parts, and offer $500.
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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  #25  
Old 12-01-2009, 04:42 PM
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All good advice - thank you. I think I'll go ahead and offer her $500 for it and see what happens. Wish I could get a better read on what fixing / replacing the a/c system will cost me, but I guess its worth the gamble.
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  #26  
Old 12-01-2009, 05:38 PM
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Figure to open, replace R/D, evacuate and refill with R12 will cost you $200-250. Add a rebuilt compressor in there, and youre at $1000.

Figure if it is a condensor or evaporator, it may take two tries to solve, and if it is under the dash, youre looking at another $1000 in labor.

An AC job, if youre going in without a clue, can go from $1000-$4000, IMO.

Now, if youre just low on refrigerant, and need a boost, that will run you $200 to do it right, as I described above.

Given that it is an 85, it could have a klima relay issue. You should be able to jumper it and see if it works. You should also be able to jumper the low pressure switch to see if the compressor kicks in as two initial tests.

Then it depends how long the ac system sat unused... they can dry out.

The rest doesnt sound bad, Id say worth it, if you have some $$$ to put against AC work, just in case...
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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  #27  
Old 12-01-2009, 06:26 PM
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I bet that the banjo bolt is crudded up and the overboost protection relay is stuck open, hence preventing it to create boost.
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Current Garage
2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress
1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs
2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver
1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car
1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap??

Sold
1987 300SDL 200K+
1994 S320 181K mi
2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi
1999 S420 130K mi
1980 240D 360k mi
15+ Others that has come, stay and gone

GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
1995 E320 SE 220k mi
1984 300SD 350k mi
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  #28  
Old 12-01-2009, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actros617 View Post
I bet that the banjo bolt is crudded up and the overboost protection relay is stuck open, hence preventing it to create boost.
If I clean the banjo bolt out will the overboost protection relay reset on its own, or do I have to do something to fix that too?
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  #29  
Old 12-01-2009, 06:55 PM
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it will allow the overboost relay to see pressure, and also the ALDA - thus the ability to make more power again...

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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