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#16
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#17
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Ok. So where does that leave me?
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#18
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There's no major rust (as compared to my 220D) and there's only 1 small ding. The odometer works. |
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#19
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It leaves you with a wife that does not support this project. Be verrrrrry verrrrrry careful. Thanks
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83 300D 227,xxx miles, sold 86 300 SDL 130,000 miles, sold |
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#20
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You don't need the turbo to climb hills. Betcha the turbo's fine, it would be funny if it were just fuel filters or something.
Go for it, give her 800 or so. Possibly less. |
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#21
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yah if your not using any oil i doubt theres anything wrong with the turbo. undo the little banjo bolt at the back of the intake and clean it out, if that doesn't work try unscrewing the alda to see if it picks up.
__________________
93 b2200 EFI turbo, reg cab/short box, F2t swap build thread here 92 B2600i Cab plus getting a 82 3.0L 5cyl 617 mercedes Turbo Diesel build thread here 96 GMC 1500 z71 4x4 6.5L turbo diesel ![]() Diesel all the way!!!
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#22
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"The passenger seat is busted because an enormously fat woman with a steel hip rode in it all the time."
... sounds like one of those sinister characters from an old James Bond movie... ![]() ... hmmm... might want to check driver to passenger (left/right) ride height. And passenger door/hinge operation/alignment if it's that bad - some folks like to hang on them to get in and out...
__________________
1987 300SDL 2005 Ford Excursion 6.0L Powerstroke, 6" suspension lift |
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#23
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Its not a prize - I'd offer $500 and be very surprised if she gets more. The turbo problem will turn many folks off as will the rust. Most will see it as a parts car. Here in Houston, turbos are pretty common in the junk yards for under $100. Broken seats can be repaired at low expense. Peace in the home is PRICELESS! Joseph |
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#24
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rust is a show stopper if it is in certain areas. Where I live, AC is necessary in the summer, so that is a non-starter. A bad turbo, unless it creates drivability issues, isnt a huge concern, as likely a better price can be found.
If I was looking for a car to buy cheap, drive a year and then scrap, or use for parts, this may be it. I wouldnt make a car with that many ailments into a project car - youll go crazy. <$1000 unless all rust could be fixed by replacement parts (e.g. front quarter panels are the only things rusty and they can be replaced from a junkyard) and the other repairs can be done cheaply. Even then, youll likely throw $3000 to make the car right no matter how you see it. Id make it a one-year clunker, then get rid of it for parts, and offer $500.
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
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#25
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All good advice - thank you. I think I'll go ahead and offer her $500 for it and see what happens. Wish I could get a better read on what fixing / replacing the a/c system will cost me, but I guess its worth the gamble.
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#26
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Figure to open, replace R/D, evacuate and refill with R12 will cost you $200-250. Add a rebuilt compressor in there, and youre at $1000.
Figure if it is a condensor or evaporator, it may take two tries to solve, and if it is under the dash, youre looking at another $1000 in labor. An AC job, if youre going in without a clue, can go from $1000-$4000, IMO. Now, if youre just low on refrigerant, and need a boost, that will run you $200 to do it right, as I described above. Given that it is an 85, it could have a klima relay issue. You should be able to jumper it and see if it works. You should also be able to jumper the low pressure switch to see if the compressor kicks in as two initial tests. Then it depends how long the ac system sat unused... they can dry out. The rest doesnt sound bad, Id say worth it, if you have some $$$ to put against AC work, just in case...
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
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#27
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I bet that the banjo bolt is crudded up and the overboost protection relay is stuck open, hence preventing it to create boost.
__________________
Current Garage 2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress 1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs 2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver 1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car 1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap?? Sold 1987 300SDL 200K+ 1994 S320 181K mi 2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi 1999 S420 130K mi 1980 240D 360k mi 15+ Others that has come, stay and gone GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN ![]() 1995 E320 SE 220k mi 1984 300SD 350k mi |
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#28
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If I clean the banjo bolt out will the overboost protection relay reset on its own, or do I have to do something to fix that too?
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#29
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it will allow the overboost relay to see pressure, and also the ALDA - thus the ability to make more power again...
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
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