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  #1  
Old 12-15-2009, 10:25 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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$&%^#@* Door Strike Bolts!

THe drivers side striker is a little mis aligned so the door is hard to close.

I figured, no prob just loosen the bolts a bit and re align...WRONG!!! Every single one rounded out out on me!!! Yes, I used a 5mm allen.

So now to get the drill and the special snap on extractors busy.

Before I do that, I need the part number for bolts. I figured I would just replace all 16 of them (4 per door), and put a little anti seize on them.

Anyone have the part number or good spares they would like to sell?

Thanks!

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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #2  
Old 12-15-2009, 10:32 AM
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EPC shows A116 990 00 31
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1985 300D cali 190K

http://mercedes.thatchermathias.com/mw300d.jpg
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  #3  
Old 12-15-2009, 10:33 AM
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Ouch!

Here's the parts number from the EPC (generic 123.133)

Front: A1169900031 (screw, 8 required)
Back: A1169900031 (screw, 8 required)
Attached Thumbnails
$&%^#@* Door Strike Bolts!-doorstriker.jpg  
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1987 300D Turbo
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  #4  
Old 12-15-2009, 10:49 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Location: Royse City Tx
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Thanks guys!
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #5  
Old 12-15-2009, 10:56 AM
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We have them

SCREW, for mounting door lock CATCH (striker) to body.
Part Number: 1169900031
Description: SCREW, for mounting door lock CATCH (striker) to body.
Body Mechanical And Trim

Call.
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https://www.boldegoist.com/

Last edited by whunter; 09-27-2010 at 11:52 PM.
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  #6  
Old 12-15-2009, 10:56 AM
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If you give me a few days.....I can come up with some bolts. I've got 5 parts cars. SHEESH!!! Too many things to do.
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  #7  
Old 12-15-2009, 11:04 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
If you give me a few days.....I can come up with some bolts. I've got 5 parts cars. SHEESH!!! Too many things to do.
Sounds great Dave!

BTW, the Aux fan is still spinning!!!
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #8  
Old 12-15-2009, 11:29 AM
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As soon as you drill off the head the screws come out by hand, I even tried the hammer tool to loosen them with no sucess.
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  #9  
Old 12-15-2009, 11:31 AM
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As soon as you drill off the head the screws come out by hand, I even tried the hammer tool to loosen them with no sucess. I suggest you draw an outline around the catch it will give you a reference point
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  #10  
Old 12-15-2009, 11:35 AM
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These screws have blue thread lock applied to them, if you take a pencil torch or windproof turbo type butane lighter to them first and heat then up enough to soften the thread lock they will come out ten times easier! They don't have to be red hot or anything close; 150F softens the thread lock so just heat them enough to where you can't hold your finger on them. Good luck!
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  #11  
Old 12-15-2009, 12:01 PM
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I had a lot of trouble with these 5mm allen heads too.

For future reference, what works for me is a 3/8 drive breaker bar and a cheap (home depot/lowes) 5mm allen bit. The more expensive craftsman allen bits would all break, the steel seemed to be brittle.

Anyway, one quick, hard push on the breaker bar while pushing in on the bit seems to do it. If that doesn't work, I have a hand-impact tool that you put the bit on and then beat it with a hammer.
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  #12  
Old 12-15-2009, 12:14 PM
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These bolts are SO easy to drill out I would not mess with trying to loosen them anymore... as Peter mentioned... once you have the head drilled it is completely loose...
Do not do all of them at once in case the plate at the back is not held to where it will not fall into the abyss....
Somewhere in the archives I posted the size and pictures of drilling them out...
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  #13  
Old 12-15-2009, 01:57 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Location: Royse City Tx
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If that back plate does fall, how do you retrieve or replace it?

That has not happened to me yet, but the way my luck is...it would be good info to have.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #14  
Old 12-15-2009, 02:00 PM
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Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
DO NOT LET THEM FALL !!!!!
LOL,
that is kind like the instructions in the manual about not losing the clips for the inside of the half shafts... LOL
I do not know the answer to this at this time... if there is access at the inside behind the upholstery or what.. someone will though...
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  #15  
Old 12-15-2009, 02:26 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
Posts: 5,177
When I replaced that striker two years ago, the back plate just slid down a bit.

So what is the best way to not let them fall?

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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