Replaced the hood release cable today, wanting to change it before I could no longer open the hood. Everything went pretty smooth with a string tied on each end and finding the little release slots for the cable. However, the firewall boot was a PIA and after numerous attempts it is still not seated. I tried a slip loop with very fine ga. wire (trip wire) but couldn't get the darn thing to go in the hole. Anyone have a special trick for reinstalling firewall boots in cramped quarters?

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Silicone spray might help.

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I lubed it well with Dow Corning 4 but it didn't help as it is very difficult to get any straight-on pressure to overcome the locking bead.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Are you trying to put it in straight..or put a little piece in then follow around with the rest.. like a tire is put on and taken off a rim ?
I want to do this operation myself soon...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

There's a long thread here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=82774

Read to the end before taking the advice of cutting off the grommet. Different techniques are discussed later in the thread.

One hint that I didn't know when I replaced mine: raise the hood to the full up position to give more room. I didn't know there was a "wide open" release lever at the hinges.

In my first attempt, I put everything together and then tried to insert the grommet (boot). I couldn't do it that way, so I disconnected it and got the grommet installed first, then reconnected it up.

Lube, pressure, twisting, force. It ain't easy, but it is possible.

I just pushed as hard as I could from the firewall side, while turning/twisting the rubber boot. It slowly seats itself in the firewall hole. I avoided lubes cause I figured that would just make the whole thing slippery and therefore more difficult. Twisting while pushing is key.

I thought about warming up the boot a little bit to make it more pliable, but didn't as I didn't have any good means of doing so. It's tough, I put all of my weight behind it (+200lbs), and it took more than one good effort.

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

I tried both straight-on and walking it in, several times, but when neither worked frustration set in. The problem I encountered was the cable on the engine side sits higher than the grommet and when trying to walk it in, the upward push of the cable kept popping the bottom of the grommet back out. Maybe if I find a way to keep the cable straight in that area, I can get it to walk in. I'll try again tomorrow when things are fresh and maybe a little "holding my mouth right" will help.

Also, I did place the hood in the full up position, which helped, but still no cooperation from the grommet.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )