Recently my 124 has been giving me trouble starting (or should I say not starting). Acts as though the battery is weak/dead. When I attempt to start it cold after a full 40 sec. glow it only turns over once or twice then stops. If I leave it on the block heater all night it starts fine.

After a no start situation I measured the battery voltage and it was 12.4v. Load tested the batt. and it was OK. Tested the alt. output when running with all elec. equipment on, result was 14v. It appears the batt. and alt. are healthy. Glow plugs are new and all get 12v. I'm beginning to suspect the starter or a bad ground. Wouldn't a bad starter be a problem when hot?

Temp. around 25*F. Rotella 15-40. Battery terminal connections clean and tight. Warm starts are effortless. If the motor is cold, no block heater and not run in several hours = no start. Only one or two revolutions. Jumping helps this situation.

Any input is appreciated.

__________________

Muleears
'07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD
'04 Jaguar XJ8 VDP, 34K
'10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter
'02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again
'97 E300 Diesel Son's DD
'61 VERY tolerant wife

Hampton Roads, VA USA

Gone but not forgotten:
'67 250S 95K
'86 300SDL
'87 300D Turbo, 364K! R.I.P.
'98 E300 Turbodiesel, 213K
'02 S420, 164K
'01 Prius 138K

How did you load test the battery? If jumping helps I still think you have a weak battery.

__________________
1983 300SD

A couple of silly suggestions;
How hard is the motor to turn over by hand when the starter struggles?
Have you tried another battery?

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Check the grounds from the battery to the frame and starter/motor with an ohm meter. Should be low (less than 1 ohm). If too high you might have a bad or intermentent ground connection to the frame and or motor.

__________________
81 300D Turbo 190K sold
83 300sd 319K best $500 I ever spent-daily driverw/ 2 tank WVO set up

It wasn't mine but with a meter that put a load of some sort on the battery.

"layback40
A couple of silly suggestions;
How hard is the motor to turn over by hand when the starter struggles?
Have you tried another battery?"

Never tried to turn it by hand. No, haven't tried another batt. but have one available, I'll try that.

Paul66

Will do.

__________________

Muleears
'07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD
'04 Jaguar XJ8 VDP, 34K
'10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter
'02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again
'97 E300 Diesel Son's DD
'61 VERY tolerant wife

Hampton Roads, VA USA

Gone but not forgotten:
'67 250S 95K
'86 300SDL
'87 300D Turbo, 364K! R.I.P.
'98 E300 Turbodiesel, 213K
'02 S420, 164K
'01 Prius 138K

When was the last time the valves were adjusted? I'm not familiar with your motor so please excuse me if you have hydrolic lifters. Also, is that a synthetic oil that you are using? Perhaps the if it is dino oil then it is hard to start because the oil is making the engine hard to crank. I would think it could be one of these problems along with a bad connection somewhere.

My 116 just gave me similiar problems and I had to twist the possitive connection on the battery then it started right up. It was wierd to me how it cranked once then stopped like happenned to you. Try twisting the possitive cable on the battery then tightening it down.

__________________
1998 E320 150,000
1980 300SD 240,000
1965 190D 79,000