I am looking at at 1977 240D with 4 speed. Interior is pretty beat up, but intact 300,000 miles one owner last ten years and one owner before that I'm told. Color Black, Didn't look at interior color, but it was redone in TJ, Mexico 10 years ago and has gone to HIAHB since.
Car won't shut off without the lever, and it needs the Vacuum pump rebuilt?? also needs at least one injector. Been a CA ca all it's life so don't think it has any rust problems. Cost is next to nothing because of issues and owner needing the space.

Cost of Vacuum pump Rebuild or rebuilt one?

Injectors I know about.
Other factors to be aware of?
Thanks in advance.

BTW I know it'll be slow, but I just need it to make my client rounds here in town and maybe do a diesel drive or two. To save my truck all the short drives.

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1986 Euro 500SEC "RUF" 9:1CR, "Rose"
1985 Euro 500SEC Cabriolet AMG Widebody
1982 Euro 500SEL "Blue"
2001 Texas Heeler (Aussie/Queensland X) "Sulphie",
2012 Queensland Red Heeler "Squeak"
Best dogs I've ever had.

How bad is the interior? Just because it won't shut off doesn't mean you need a new vacuum pump. Could just be a leak. Does anything else vacuum work (locks, power brakes)? How bad is the interior? If compression is good, probably good deal.

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

I suggest you do a search then ask specific questions about each problem if you buy the car. Like JE said your vacuum pump is probably OK but its easy and cheap to rebuild if its not. If the car will not start easy when cold, run away.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

No rust is a big benefit. If the engine will run, and you have the time and tools to fix a few items, sounds like a good deal. How is the transmission? Clutch? Even if the engine is shot, a newer one from a junkyard or similar source might be a worthwhile investment. Again, no rust is a huge plus. The other stuff can all be fixed.

Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

My advice, check it thoroughly for rust. In the engine bay, underbody of the car, underneath the floor mats. I didn't check thoroughly enough when I bought my 240D, mine had some rust. Nothing not fixable, though.

Things to check when driving it... after it's been running for 5 minutes, how smoothly does it idle? What color smoke is coming out the tailpipe? Drive it in all four gears, as well as reverse. Any slippage or grinding? Make a turn with the wheel turned as far as possible. Any clicking noise?

My 2c
Daniel

P.S. about ur vacuum issue:
http://www.dieselbenz.info/wiki/index.php?title=Vacuum_Related

I agree that you should not assume it has no rust. California cars rust from the top down. I knew my car had a little rust when I bought it, because I could see a few small places, but I looked underneath and saw none. Once I bought it I started reading posts on this bulletin board. After becoming educated I decided to look all over the car for hidden rust. Both front and rear windshield seals leaked, and the "Trough Compost had been in place long enough to rust a small hole in the driver's side hood hinge trough. I also discovered the trunk was not water tight, and the right side rear 1/4 had rust that was not detectable from outside the car. (Well, it is now, because as I pulled off the seam sealer and rusty bits, I poked my finger through.)

None of the rust is so serious that it can't be fixed with Por15 though. The driver's side rear floor is weak too. All of this rust was caused by leaks, salt air and poor maintenance. Unfortunately it doesn't take much water to rust the floors, because it gets trapped and can take months to dry.

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1979 240D, 4spd manual, Power Sunroof, manual windows, 147k miles, Pastel gray/Black MB Tex.
1991 300D 2.5 - Smokes like it's on Crack!

I'll agree with the others, that you need to check for rust. Also, a rust free or near rust free is worth saving. Also, if the paint is good. I would look behind the battery, also. Now about vacuum pumps, and possibly your vacuum issue. I have an '81 240D 4-spd. I think the pumps are different. So that might make my info incorrect for your application. Some of weather you need to replace or rebuild comes down to cost. One of the parts that goes bad is the check valve. It is a $50 part. It sits on top, and is easily replaced. It looks like a nut, and the vacuum tube from the brake booster attaches to it. Now on weather you should rebuild or replace. I think a new vacuum pump is about $300. The latter ones have an 'arm' that has a sealed bearing. When that goes, big problems. I think the cost of that part is about $180. I think the gasket/rebuild kit is $50. So, with all that you have $280. Close to the price of a new vacuum pump.
I would also think about replacing the timing chain at that mileage. A quick check, is to take off the valve cover. There is a mark on the front of the cam and the first cam cap. Align those. Look at the harmonic balancer and see where the timing marks are. This is a down and dirty way of checking timing chain streach. You might check the MB manual for a more accurate check. Also see if there are cam offset keys. 5 degrees of streatch is OK. Porbably just put in an offset key. 7 degree is the border line. 10 degrees, you probaly need to replace the timing chain. Use an IWIS brand. I might think about replacing the top and tensioner guides, if replacing the timing chain. I'd also replace the tensioner unit.
Also the front seal might be good to replace at that time. Belt hoses etc. Adjust valves.
Tom