|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Need Buyers Advice -- 1985 300TD
I'm looking at buying a 1985 300TD. They're asking $2000.
I ran the VIN through AutoCheck and it came back with a score of 63. Autocheck report: http://goo.gl/U6lU I've talked with the seller and he's disclosed the following:
My plan is to head over there tomorrow with a mechanic and see what they say. But I thought it wouldn't hurt to solicite advice here too. So what do you think, should I pull the trigger? Thanks! |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I've done some searching on the forum and it sounds like these are common issues for this particular car. I also found out the "valve" problem is probably related to a vacuum problem. But I digress, do you think this car is worth $2000? Or should I just take a mechanic with me and let them tell me what's what.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
$100 to $2000 Bad Brakes.... Booster? Calipers? Pads? Lines? Flush? Cylinders? Rotors? All? Tires Michelins... $500 Shutoff Valve Could be a simple yet hard to find vacuum leak DIY $100 parts Careful doing this repair on your own, could cause "runaway engine" Turn Signals Likely culprit is Combination Stalk
__________________
This area is typically used to brag about one's current or former automobiles. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Some of those issues are common as you've found out, easy to fix too.
Does the car sag in back?
__________________
83 SD 84 CD |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Are you ready to work on this car? You can learn just about everything you need to know right here...
a car like this will need lots of loving. DIY is fun and saves big money. If you are paying someone else, this will turn into a $5000 car very quickly. How that car sits in the rear is significant; wagons have special suspension back there that will cost you if needing work. Brakes can be a lot of parts; pretty easy DIY, but as mentioned, lots to fix there. The 'shut-off solonoid' is under $100 and is not hard to replace, but if done wrong can be catastrophic, as mentioned (runaway engine). Could easily just be a simple vacuum leak or hose popped off... How does it run? Shift? How does it handle on the freeway? If these three questions are answered "Great!", then I would seriously consider looking deeper into her. If the front end is slop, or it runs poorly or with tons of blow-by, or the tranny has issues, I would walk away.
__________________
Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...) |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
It may be worth offering far less than $2,000 after you and your mechanic see it person and assess it after driving it, and putting it up on a rack and giving it a once over. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I've never really been a "car" guy before but that's because I always needed a daily driver. I recently moved to a small town where I mainly commute by bicycle and finally have the time to devote to getting into cars.
I fix everything else myself, why not a car? Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I'll let you know how it goes. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
EXACTLY!!
You are a perfect candidate for a DIYer: not urgently needed as a daily driver, enthusiastic about working on stuff, and looking at quality cars ; these are the perfect cars to learn to wrench on. Given what you've said, I think that a Benz is a good fit. This particular one? How does that saying go: the most expensive car I ever owned was a cheap Mercedes... Shop around, and take someone who knows what to look for, so you end up with minimal issues from the starting line. That said, my car was $800, 8 years ago, and still running strong! (it was on its was to the boneyard, and it was another $1000 and two months of work before I drove her anywhere); but I knew nothing about MBZ mechanics prior, and I have fixed almost everything myself. Have fun! This forum is the best support in the world!
__________________
Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...) |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
It MIGHT be worth getting. Some red flags to me are the fact that it's spent from 1999 until at least 2006 in the "RUST" prone east coast. Had high mileage in 2006 (225K), and basic maintenance has been neglected. Sagging rear can get expensive in the wagons. SEEMS like $1000 car without looking. Good luck!
__________________
RT 1984 300D---Sold 1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold 1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold 1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I also have a 1985 300td, paid $750 for it and it came with a good solid engine, trans and body. It shows 157,000 miles and the CarFax report doesn't show any higher millage - but who knows the whole truth. But these 25 year-old 123s do require a lot of attention. So far in two years, I've replaced ball joints, battery, engine & trans mounts, rear axle, sway bar links, brake pads, two tires, glow plugs, , fog lights, rebuilt injectors, repaired door windows, repaired both front seats, vacuum system leaks, SLS accumulatos, SLS high pressure hose, rebuilt SLS level control valve. Fixed numerous wiring problems. Changed out all the filters & fluids. Adjusted valves. Checked engine compression, Changed V- belts. Replaced missing lower side molding. Replaced rear hatch struts. And likely other things that don't come immeditely to mind. For me, having the car is an enjoyable hobby. But it would never be worthwhile for me to pay someone else to do the work on it. You will be wise to spend the money and have an expert check out the engine wear, transmission operation and how well the car drives when you put it through its paces. The worst problem of all is rust - which can be fixed & fixed again - but never beaten. Welcome & Enjoy, Joseph |
Bookmarks |
|
|