Repacking front wheel bearings/adjustment - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #1 03-17-2010, 11:39 PM

yup, first on the google search list.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=2116142&postcount=2

leathermang · #2 03-17-2010, 11:41 PM

VSTech, I beg to differ... the original poster asked for the best way without the dial indicator.. at which point the people in the know went to the larger picture and rejected his original premise.... No point in telling him the specs/procedure if we have not convinced him to USE the correct tool...
LOL

Diesel911 · #3 03-18-2010, 01:54 AM

Now that you mention it perhaps the question itself was not entirely aimed at the answer the Origional Poster wanted.

I thought that the question ask for an "accurate" way without using a Micrometer (Dial Indicator?).

So in a sense we all have all missed the question mark.

Any proceedure less than using the Dial Indicator is not as accurate; so, that leaves out all of that. (To the best of my knowlege.)

In order to answer the question properly we should not exclude another measuring device that is as accurate or more accurate than a Dial Indicator.

But, from the Original Posters other responses he was not looking for another type of measuring device that equaled or exceeded the accuracy of a Dial Indicator.

A how do you "have your Cake and Eat it to" type of question.

warmblood58 · #4 03-18-2010, 02:08 AM

So as the the OP, I am ready to buy a dial indicator and base to do this right, who can provide me with the right procedure using a dial indicator? Thanks as always!

John1 · #5 03-18-2010, 08:32 AM

You really do not need an indicator if you know how to just slightly pre-load the bearing.

Been a Porsche certified mechanic and machinist 30 years.

John

vstech · #6 03-18-2010, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John1

You really do not need an indicator if you know how to just slightly pre-load the bearing.

Been a Porsche certified mechanic and machinist 30 years.

John

great, mr mechanic, do you wanna go to this guy's house and adjust it for him, or let the wonderful DIY thread I posted for him show him how MB thinks it ought to be done?

leathermang · #7 03-18-2010, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by warmblood58

So as the the OP, I am ready to buy a dial indicator and base to do this right, who can provide me with the right procedure using a dial indicator? Thanks as always!

That is great...and best for you car...

VSTech was kind enough to have already posted the reference thread on how to do it properly...

warmblood58 · #8 03-18-2010, 12:37 PM

Thank you everyone -who has the MB procedure for this and would they be kind enough to share? Thanks!

Diesel911 · #9 03-18-2010, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by warmblood58

So as the the OP, I am ready to buy a dial indicator and base to do this right, who can provide me with the right procedure using a dial indicator? Thanks as always!

The end play is 0.01-0.02 mm
The torque or the Allen Screw on the Clamp is 14 Nm

You loosen the Allen Screw on the Clamp Nut and tighten the Clamp Nut while the other Hand rotates the Rotor. They manual said until it can be turned with considerable effort.

After that you back off/loosen the Clamp Nut 1/3 turn and the manual has; release the tension by applying a blow from a plastic Hammer against the Wheel Spindle/Axle.

You attach your Magnetic Dial Indicator Base to the Brake Rotor and install the Dial Indicator with at least 2mm Preload on the Spindle Shaft (the Axle Shaft). The Dial Indicator Shaft should be parallel with the Spindle/Axle.

Carefully tighten the Clamp Nut and ounce in a while without rotating the Brake Rotor; push in and out on the Brake Rotor and watch the Dial Indicator. Tighten or loosen the Clamp Nut on the Spindle/Axle as is neccessary until you get the clearance you want.

After you get your clerance/end play; in the manual they want you to Rotate the Brake Rotor a few times and check the clearance/end play after each rotation.

When your have your clearance/end Play; without moving the Clamp Nut; tighten the Clamp Nut Allen Screw 14 Nm. Check the clearance/end play again to be sure nothing moved.

If for some reason you do not have a Dial Indicator with a magnetic base you will have to rig some place to use the Indicator Clamp. Perhaps by using one of the Lug not holes and a long bolt with a nut to give someplace to attach a clamp.

Note: If you ever had to do the Rear Wheel Bearings you will also need a Dial Inicacator there and if you want to do the 2mm Method to check your Timing Chain Stretch you also need A Dial Indicator.

I would give your Local Harbor Freight a call and as the price of the Magnetic Base and the Dial Indicator as last week they had them on sale. But, I do not know if the Sale is still going on or if it is a nation wide sale.

warmblood58 · #10 03-24-2010, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

The end play is 0.01-0.02 mm
The torque or the Allen Screw on the Clamp is 14 Nm

You loosen the Allen Screw on the Clamp Nut and tighten the Clamp Nut while the other Hand rotates the Rotor. They manual said until it can be turned with considerable effort.

After that you back off/loosen the Clamp Nut 1/3 turn and the manual has; release the tension by applying a blow from a plastic Hammer against the Wheel Spindle/Axle.

You attach your Magnetic Dial Indicator Base to the Brake Rotor and install the Dial Indicator with at least 2mm Preload on the Spindle Shaft (the Axle Shaft). The Dial Indicator Shaft should be parallel with the Spindle/Axle.

Carefully tighten the Clamp Nut and ounce in a while without rotating the Brake Rotor; push in and out on the Brake Rotor and watch the Dial Indicator. Tighten or loosen the Clamp Nut on the Spindle/Axle as is neccessary until you get the clearance you want.

After you get your clerance/end play; in the manual they want you to Rotate the Brake Rotor a few times and check the clearance/end play after each rotation.

When your have your clearance/end Play; without moving the Clamp Nut; tighten the Clamp Nut Allen Screw 14 Nm. Check the clearance/end play again to be sure nothing moved.

If for some reason you do not have a Dial Indicator with a magnetic base you will have to rig some place to use the Indicator Clamp. Perhaps by using one of the Lug not holes and a long bolt with a nut to give someplace to attach a clamp.

Note: If you ever had to do the Rear Wheel Bearings you will also need a Dial Inicacator there and if you want to do the 2mm Method to check your Timing Chain Stretch you also need A Dial Indicator.

I would give your Local Harbor Freight a call and as the price of the Magnetic Base and the Dial Indicator as last week they had them on sale. But, I do not know if the Sale is still going on or if it is a nation wide sale.

Great instructions, thanks again!

vstech · #11 03-17-2010, 11:45 PM

ahh, good point.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=100590
this thread is a great pictorial on how to do it right.

layback40 · #12 03-18-2010, 08:42 AM

Has some one got a pic of a wheel bearing that has failed from too much preload?

A nice pic with the rollers all pitted & the cup & cone all chipped away!!

Best to give some pictorial examples of what happens when you take short cuts!!

Diesel911 · #13 03-18-2010, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by layback40

Has some one got a pic of a wheel bearing that has failed from too much preload?

A nice pic with the rollers all pitted & the cup & cone all chipped away!!

Best to give some pictorial examples of what happens when you take short cuts!!

This is what I remember seeing:
When these type of Bearings are over tightened the just get hot. What happens is if it gets hot enough like 450 degrees or above it starts to soften the metal
Whey you pull the overheated Bearings out the Bearing Race in particular will be a light Straw Yellow, to Browinsh Bronze , to a Blued color depending on how much heat it was exposed to.
Of course if it gets hot enough it can melt together.

Chipped Races and Roller more often result from the Bearing being too loose or hitting something like the Curb to many times. Some condition that allows a sharp impact.
Chipping will also happen if it just gets plane worn out.

Kestas · #14 03-19-2010, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by layback40

Has some one got a pic of a wheel bearing that has failed from too much preload?

A nice pic with the rollers all pitted & the cup & cone all chipped away!!

Best to give some pictorial examples of what happens when you take short cuts!!

This bearing failed from too much preload. It resulted in surface spalling of the inner ring. One piece of evidence that points to excessive preload is the wear at the roller ends and mating guiding flange.

rosenfe · #15 03-18-2010, 01:11 PM

i got mine at www.wttool.co cost about 17$ works well.also search post for dial indicator under my name rosenfe,there you will see post from brian carlton about procedure to set preload that is pretty clear and simple -worked for me