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#1
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Why on earth did the MM mount bolts align with the arm?
I mean, seriously, how hard would it have been to put them perpendicular to the arm? it is SUCH a huge pain to get the bolt in under the arm... I guess I will be pulling the arm and mounting it last... I got all the bolts aligned into the holes, just cannot get a wrench on the inner bolt!
JEEPERS CREEPERS!!!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#2
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I mushed up the beginning Threads on one Arm trying to get the Bolt in.
I use a 2x4 and levered the Engine around and stuck a long tapered Punch in the hole until at was lined up. And, used one of my cheap Harbor Freight Taps to chase the Threads. I think part of the problem was that I had installed and tightened the other side. I should have left it untightened to allow for a little more play on the other side.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#3
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yeah, I installed the bolt in the arm first, then started aligning the bolts into the frame... well the outboard bolt was no issue. it's that damn inner one that is annoying. it's much easier to remove when the motor mount is in two pieces...
oh. anybody attempting to change the driver's side motor mount, heed this warning. take out the vacuum line before you destroy it... them connectors don't take kindly to big arms swinging wrenches in proximity... |
#4
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It probably has to do with ' center of gravity'
and other ' engineer things'..... you know by what they say in the FSM they have checked out these things... you would not want excessive vibration all the time in trade off for being able to reach that bolt easily.... .... I know you would not... I consider the rubber in the engine mounts soft.... and I am sure there is a reason ...which I assume is to absorb vibration... Greg
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#5
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........ahh........what, exactly, is an "engineer thing"............
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#6
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Quote:
functionality vs. servicability vs. manufacturability vs. cost ...Im guessing
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#7
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Numbers! My mortal enemy....
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#8
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no, numbers are an account (bean counter) thing...
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#9
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Quote:
cost = They assign several Engineering teams to design something. The winning team is the one who comes up with the cheapest solution that will in use hold up until just after the warranty has expired. functionality = The design suites the needs of the Company. serviceability = The Item or Vehicle made so you have to take it to the Dealer to be serviced because no one else can or wants to service it. manufacturability = The ability for the part/s to be made easily in a 3rd world country (politically correct = Newly Developing Countries).
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
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Well as a Mechanical Design Engineer (I build military radios) we consider serviceability, but it's usually the after the prototype and first production batch starts to roll.
Before that there is a simple triangle of things we aim for, mind you that only two of the corners can be chosen at once. The three are: On time, within budget and right. So I'd say that the initial design was right/on time or right/within budget and that "serviceability" was lumped into the "well... we can service it" category of excuses. |
#11
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Motor-mounts...
Ive just dropped a 617 into a Wagon that was a 280TE with a gasser M110....
The rubber-mounts were already fitted and in great condition so I didnt disturb them. The motor mount-arms on new 617 just located perfectly on the top, when the motor was lowered (At the right angle!) I kept maybe 99% of the motor weight on the lift, so was easily able to shove the engine back/forth/left/right until the holes lined up and the bolt went straight in no probs, or excess force.... I didnt need to alter the position of the rubber-mounts on the chassis at all.... --Apart from finding the correct centre of gravity of the engine/trans so its angle was right, fitting the motor etc, was surprisingly easy....
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year.... |
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