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  #1  
Old 05-04-2010, 05:31 PM
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1985 300TD Wagon

Is a 1985 TD wagon with California emmissions worth the trouble? Can the car be de-californiaized cheaply? I have read that the California emmissions on these cars really hinder performance and add to the overll upkeep.

119,000 miles, no rust, missing rear seat head rests, but has the rear jump seat.

Seller is asking $2,500. Is that even ballpark for this car?

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  #2  
Old 05-04-2010, 05:46 PM
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Also, A/C runs very cold.
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  #3  
Old 05-04-2010, 06:04 PM
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Terrible deal. Stay away from it. What's the seller's phone number?
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #4  
Old 05-04-2010, 06:15 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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A non rusted car in the rust belt... Probably worth its weight in well steel? Does it still have the oxycat?
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  #5  
Old 05-04-2010, 06:39 PM
JB3 JB3 is offline
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no rust my a$$, in chicago? Unlikely, but who knows? Probably no obvious rust as seen from inside his house looking out into the back yard with the car on the street.

I don't trust that add, no info, and the guy misspelled the word "maintenance." Would be a great price, but no pics as well. Its up to you Gvran71 to check it out in person. Sounds like you already called him or her. How do they sound?
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  #6  
Old 05-04-2010, 06:49 PM
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It's a great deal if what the seller states is correct. I doubt it, but nevertheless it appears to be underpriced. Mileage can be off, and rust free...

I wouldn't worry about the CA versions. Parts can be swapped out, but its not really that big of a deal. AIr filters cost more; 3x more. But that's a once a year or once every two year type cost depending on how you drive.
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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
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  #7  
Old 05-04-2010, 11:03 PM
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Drove the car tonight. There is a leak in the exhaust that seems to be coming from the front of the car-I couldn't pinpoint it, but it is fairly loud. I had a 84 300 turbo a long time ago and I remember it having more pick up than this car. Didn't feel like turbo was coming on like it should. It eventually did get up to a steady speed of 55-60. Battery light came on. Interior is fairly worn for the miles, but seats were not ripped. Car needs springs. Couldn't entirely determine claim of no rust, but body panels seemed to be clean.

Other items to nit pick: rear hatch needs a broom handle to stay open, no rear headrests, tires are bald.

Don't know about Oxycat.
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  #8  
Old 05-04-2010, 11:08 PM
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2500 is kinda high with those problems...
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  #9  
Old 05-04-2010, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gvran71 View Post
Drove the car tonight. There is a leak in the exhaust that seems to be coming from the front of the car-I couldn't pinpoint it, but it is fairly loud. I had a 84 300 turbo a long time ago and I remember it having more pick up than this car. Didn't feel like turbo was coming on like it should. It eventually did get up to a steady speed of 55-60. Battery light came on. Interior is fairly worn for the miles, but seats were not ripped. Car needs springs. Couldn't entirely determine claim of no rust, but body panels seemed to be clean.

Other items to nit pick: rear hatch needs a broom handle to stay open, no rear headrests, tires are bald.

Don't know about Oxycat.
Most of those problems sound relatively minor. 'Needs springs' is probably an issue with the SLS. Hatch struts are an easy fix. Turbo issue is probably a clogged switchover line.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #10  
Old 05-05-2010, 07:56 AM
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The exhaust leak in my 300TD was caused by the muffler donughts snapping (rotted rubber) - that allowed the muffler assembly to wobble and shake around - that in turn put stress on the exhaust manifold, which cracked the intake/exhaust gasket. Simple enought to fix (I have a non-turbo car) - but took a few hours.

Bald tires - take a close look at how the front tires are worn. My wagon had brand new tires when I bought it. I wasn't careful when I test drove it (didn't notice the front end pulled hard to the left) - the PO didn't disclose that he just put brand new tires to hide the uneven ware patterns. I spent almost $1500 getting the entire front end suspension rebuilt (one of the few jobs I am not able to do myself).

Springs seem like they need replacement - did the rear end come up to level after the car was run? Does it sag?

I've never worked on a turbo, so I have nothing to offer regarding why the turbo won't come on. Sounds like a lot of work. Do you love these cars? If you don't - all the bugs you've mentioned would probably wear you out. If you are happy working on Mercedes - then $2500 is a fair price for a wagon, but you'll spend a pile getting everything straight. After that, you'll have a nice wagon.

Good luck on your wagon quest!
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  #11  
Old 05-05-2010, 08:21 AM
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sounds like a strong 950.00 car. 2500 is a lot for issues off the bat. (not to mention 3-500 in tires...) in comparison, I am looking at an 87 TD with everything working, and no issues but a small oil leak for $2500...
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  #12  
Old 05-05-2010, 08:25 AM
JB3 JB3 is offline
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might still be worth it if there is no rust. Wagons are hard to come by. However, that does not sound like a car with only 119000 miles on it. Whats the read you got from the seller? Do they seem legit? do they have a maintenance history?
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  #13  
Old 05-05-2010, 08:47 AM
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if its a southern cal car, it shouldn't have any rust cause no salting of roads in winter, sparse rain. interior gets worn from the strong sun.
you need to look at the underside of the car for rust. poke around at the seams and rocker panels. look for signs of bondo patches. check around the window seals for bubbling. if it really has no rust at all, i'd go for it. all the mechanical issues can be fixed if your capable. but rust is a bee-otch. once it starts to rust, forget it.
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  #14  
Old 05-05-2010, 03:58 PM
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Thanks for the posts so far.

A little worried about the SLS repair. Is this real expensive-what does it entail? Am I better off dumping it and going to a conventional shock/spring?
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2010, 06:16 PM
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It can be. The shocks and pump are $$$. Spheres are abotu $100 a pop. Everything else is rebuildable (pump maybe as well). SLS makes for a very smooth ride, you'd be hard pressed to beat it. Nobody with a conversion has been happier than when they had a working SLS.

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