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#1
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all 300D owners (TD owners too) with the 617 and R4 A/C that'd be 79-85 I believe.
if you have an overzealous tendency, and installed, or got your car with insulation pipe installed on the suction line that crosses in front of your valve cover, GET IT OFF!@! I just pulled a good cleaning job on my 83 TD, and found RUST and I mean MAJOR rust on the line nearest the power steering pump!!!! I took some pics and will be posting them. but I had to get this out there! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#2
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unless the installation was glued on at the part where it goes under the PS pump, and the seam is sealed and the pipe is not torn anywhere, moisture will be trapped in the insulation and wear will eat through the cadmium plate, and start a rust fest, rapidly destroying your line.
![]() good thing I have parts cars... |
#3
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W126 owners don't have to worry about that problem.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#4
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nope, the 126 routes the suction line differently! that's why I said D/TD only!
and if your a/c is not working and you never want it to, it doesn't apply to you either. but if you someday want the line to be leak free, and you someday want a/c. FIX this problem ASAP!!! |
#5
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Suggest a fix... I have found closed cell foam but I need the right adhesive to get it on the pipe without leaving gaps for moisture to sit after repair.
I was also thinking of something like brush-on undercoating or something that will bond on. Thoughts?
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
#6
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sure.
in the a/c field, we use a rubber cement like contact adhesive. I'll take a pic later for you guys. I think a bead of acrylic on each end of the hose, and seal the seam with the proper adhesive and you'll be good to go. |
#7
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I would expect that a clean surface with a good coating like WURTH rubberized undercoating, would protect it.
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#8
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I would also recommend gluing aluminum foil or even roof flashing to the section in front of the valve cover to protect the rubber from tears etc. it'll also reflect radiant heat away from the line.
this will not help cooling at all though. possible SLIGHT drop in head pressure from the foam. |
#9
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Maybe this happened to your car but Ive never seen any rust on those lines. Maybe its a rust belt thing though
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#10
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Don't mess with the hose.
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#11
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I'd never seen any rust either. but I've never removed the foam before. on this one, the foam was badly torn, and I have PLENTY of new 3/8nominal armaflex. I WAS going to replace the foam... now I gotta replace the line and do a MUCH better job of insulating it, IF I insulate it at all.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#12
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I just replaced this line with a new Behr part. The insulation looked good and well sealed and was not damaged during install.
And the old line that came off, with its brittle insulation still intact under the PS pump, didn't have any rust on it. That would suck though to have the line discharge abruptly after a rust spot weakened. Yikes.
__________________
'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto '19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled '21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition '95 E300d - SOLD '84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one '81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter |
#13
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what were you replacing it for? was the flex part damaged?
I'm just posting this as something to check. I've seen Hundreds of these cars with poor insulation wire tied and open. it never occurred to me to check this line for rust. I'm out for that one guy that has an unknown issue! |
#14
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It is a great point though to check. On my 81, it is all solid, but this stuff just gets brittle with age. On my 82, only one section seemed to actually be glued on - it is fully connected still. The rest has fallen off.
If the engineers thought it was smart to have it insulated, so be it. The line does get quite cold, water condenses on it, and frankly, I would imagine that heat IS flowing into the line, reducing the overall efficacy of the cycle.
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
#15
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Quote:
That's a modification equal to my skill set--cutting and pasting! ![]()
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Current car: 1982 300D A New Hope! Three-plus tons of China blue steel, rubber, and magic. Past cars: 1985 300D, Glorious anthracite on black. Gracie. (R.I.P.) ![]() The rest were crappy--including a 1970 Orange Gremlin. |
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