I just found out about this product. Have any of you diesel engine owners out there tried it yet?

http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/default.aspx

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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png

Yeah, I used it in my boat (twin diesels) a couple of years ago. I think it's been around for a while.

It seems to work OK, since the fuel in the boat was several years old. I just took a minor trip in it & never missed a beat.

I also tried Startron, which noticably cleared up the fuel itself. In the filters (have a clear bowl) the cloudy fuel cleared right up. Again, the Detroits never missed a beat.

I'd say go with the Startron. It does the same or more that the Sta-Bil, but at this point I would say that it would be personal preference.

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1987 300DT
2002 Ford F-250 7.3 Crew Cab Short Bed

I have always thought that diesel was fine for a long period of time, the only gremlin being moisture that lets in fungus ("algae"). Gasoline is w different story, requiring stabilizer.

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

I seem to remember that a number of years ago, Sta-Bil was marketed for both, in one formula. Then the diesel mixing instructions disappeared from the bottle, only to show up on a new bottle with a different color of liquid in it...

Personally, I used BioBor in my first diesel car, and now StarTron when I can get it.

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-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...

I agree, I'm pretty sure petro-diesel breaks down on geological time (well, maybe not, but break-down is insignificant).

Prevents sludge and sediment formation
Cleans & Lubricates fuel injectors to improve performance
Helps remove water that microbes and algae require for growth

1. Not sure what the sludge and sediment formation they're talking about is, but I imagine if the fuel is kept in a clean, sealed container, no sludge or sediment will form. Decades of sludge that has already settled should be removed by steam cleaning of the tank, or can be picked up by bio-diesel (cheaper) and dumped into the fuel filter.

2. Standard "injector cleaner" usually only helps if your tips need replacing anyway.

3. Water remover, I already use iso-heet (another sta-bil product), which also advertises injector cleaning, and it requires 6x the concentration of the sta-bil, but it costs less than have as much, so I guess the sta-bil diesel formula is a better bargain.

I honestly don't give these too much thought, but there it is. I just care about the water remover (I'm mostly worried about rust), so I buy the cheapest thing I can find in the store.

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition