The plan was to stop some of the Oil Leaks by changing the Turbo Drain Seals; while at the same time removing the Oil Pan so I could flatten out the dents in it left by the Prior Owner.

After Jacking an putting a Jack Stand on the Passenger side of the Car I Jacked the Drivers side up resulting in the near disaster of the who Car sliding a crossed the Jack Stand towards the Passenger side. Red arrow in the pic shows were the Jack Stand was and you can see where it ended up.

I more carefully jacked the Car up and got it safely on the jack stands.
The Oil Pan was removed without incident. I found there was actually impressions of the Oil Pump Inlet left on the dented Area of the Oil Pan. (pics and Red Arrows ) The Prior Owner came very close to cracking the Oil Pump Inlet.

I loosened the A/C Hose Bracket to gain a little more room and removed the Air Filter Housing.

Despite what I have read it was easy to get at the Turbo Drain Bolts with a ½ inc Box Wrench. (pic)

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The upper Turbo Drain Tube came loose easily but I had to twist it around to find a spot where I could knock down on it to compress the Lower Turbo Drain Tube down into it’s hole. (Pic; a piece of wood would have been better but I had none small enough so I stuck my Punch into one of the holes and knocked it down.

After that you need to twist the upper Turbo Drain Tube around and up until you find the “Sweet Spot” where you can push it up to the highest point and still be able to pull the Lower Drain Tube out from under it. I found that the Bell Mouth of the upper Tube had a tough time getting over the top of the lower Tube. (Because of this before I installed it I ground of ¼ inch of the Bell.) Anyway I go the upper Tube out.

Next I had read that you could put a Hose Clamp around the Lower Drain Tube and pry up on that to get the Tube up and out.
This did not work for me. The Clamp kept sliding and also the tube got a little dented.

Since I had the Oil Pan off I decided to push the Lower Tube up and out from the Bottom and found that a 16mm Deep Socket I had fit well for that and the Tube came out easily. (pic)

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Next I realized that the Blow-by Drain Tube was also a source of a Oil leak and that it looked like it had to be removed in order to change the O-ring. (Without the Turbo Drain removed I do not see how anyone could change the O-ring on the Blow-Drain Tube; no room.)

There is a Bracket under the Manifolds about midway on the Engine held with 2 17mm Nuts (one of which was rounded off, see pic).

There is also a 10mm Nut and Bolt in the Center of the Bracket (see pic yellow circle) that actually holds the Blow-by Drain to the Bracket.(In the pic I already removed the 10mm Bolt and nut and you see the hole where it was.)

Removing the 10mm ones may have given me enough room to change the O-ring but I wanted the whole bracket off as I had decided to modify the Air Filter and make a larger Blow-by Oil Separator.
So I had my first experience using an External Ezee-out to remove the 17mm nut and that went smoothly. (I had to remove the Tubocharger in order to use the External Ezee-out.)

After cleaning everything (The hole were the Lower Turbo Drain Tube goes was really cruddy) I found a Socket that fit inside of the Lower Turbo Drain Tube and was able to straighten out the dents that prying on the Clamp had made.

Install the Blow-by Drain O-ring and tube first or you will have difficulty getting the O-ring on.

On the Lower Turbo Drain Tube I slid the Grommet completely over the fat end of the Tube and installed both O-rings into their grooves. I greased the O-rings and the Grommet Lip and the tube area under the Grommet.

I inserted the Tube end into the hole in the upper Oil pan and pusned the Tube all the way to the bottom.

I slid the Grommet down but had trouble getting enough pressure on the Grommet to squeeze the lip in.
I found I could use a long handled Combination Wrench; lever and pull it down; and that worked.
(In the pic of this it does not look like there was enough room for me to use the Wrench to lever it down but there was.)

When installing the Upper Turbo Drain Tube (new Gasket securely glued on) I again had to find the “Sweet Spot” where it would fit and still clear the Lower Drain Tube. But, with that ¼ inch I ground off of the Bell End it was easier to get it over the Lower Drain Tube.

I was able to get the Turbo Drain Tube Bolts started by Hand from above and used the Box Wrench to tighten them.
I again used the 16mm Socket to slowly (so the Grommet stays put) push the Lower Drain Tube up further into the Bell of the Upper Drain Tube from below (I had not installed yet).

I did not have a new Oil Pan Gasket and used Silicone Sealant on the old Gasket and installed the Oil Pan. Added the Oil.

So far no Oil leaks from the work I did.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hey 911,
Be careful with those jack stands!! I would never trust them, they are too unstable. I use a couple of 1ft diameter by 18" long pieces of tree trunk. they dont roll over.
Years ago on my old 300D I hit a bolder & removed the pan to straiten it. A new pan was cheap, not worth trying to straiten it. The oil pick up was cracked so I replaced it as well. I thing I got the 2 for under $60. Dont know what they cost now.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Yikes!! Be thankful you weren't under it!

This is precisely the reason I invested in the best set of ramps I could find...

Brotha,

Those are "Mortician Bait"
(To be used ,ONLY with a Lightweight [less than 200 LBS.] Garden Tractor

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

They are Americian Made (in the 1970s) and have even held up my full sized Chevy Van with no issues.

The issue I had was due to me not doing my job and Jacking Up the Car correctly to put them under the Car.

When I re-did it I put a Jack on each side of the Car (yes the Rear Wheels were Blocked and the Parking Brake was on) and I lifted each side of the car alternately until it was high enough to get both Jack Stands under the Car.

I actually prefer those Jack Stands (I have another set also) to the newer ones with 4 legs and the Cast Head on them.

What I think is a scary item is the Bilistein Jack that comes with the Car.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Jack placement is crucial ! Also I always keep the floorjack in place with a piece
of 2 x4 jammed in so it does not come down ( my new jack has a 2nd lock in case the cylinder fails) Good information on the tube removal. I need to do very soon.

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92 500E Silver 66k
82 Porsche 911SC 84K
68 Cadillac ( Gone Now )
03 Suburban Z71 200K
85 300SD 217k From Original Owner ( Dad )