Guys and Gals,

Found a great engine candidate for my '82. '84 300D, body rusted past getting an inspection sticker, 170k true miles, runs and drives. Price is right.

Checked it out in person and it started and ran as it should. Good power, low blowby, no funky noises. Correct oil and coolant levels.

Put a deposit down, contingent on a compression test (owner is super cool).

Here's my plan:
- adjust valves and check chain stretch
- Stethoscope over the motor and check for any errant internal sounds
- check compression (warm) via injector holes (HF kit). looking for 350-380 ish across the board

What else should I do to check it out? (I want it to start when its 0F in the winter :-) )

-dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

dd,
It would be worth making sure the trans is good. You may need it one day.
Check for oil leakage at base of bell housing (rear main seal)
Turbo shaft play.
Harmonic balancer & pulley bolt.
Signs of vac pump replacement.
Signs that the sump pan has been off.

When you get it home;
Take the sump pan off & have a look for bits in the bottom of the pan.
Check Gp's
Pop test injectors.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

id just listen to it and drive it and if it starts with no glow plugs its got excellent compression

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1981 300SD 512k OM603

Always a matter of judgrment other than the compression test. Always run the engine if possible till totally warmed up. This to see if there are some potential headgasket issues or cooling issues. . Oil pressure status and any abnormal increase in noise. Buying from a good type seller is usually very important as well. I in fact rate that as really important.

For example I will not sell anyone anything that does not meet what limited standards I believe should be present. Or if the item does not meet them a full disclosure of what I think. The judgement aspect varies between individuals.

Check the coolant for bubbles or oil. Check the oil for normal apearance. If more money is involved than one would be really comforatable with perhaps an oil test. I suspect you are already well aware of the mentioned items.

It is like my finding the really good 602 engine in a ratty but roadworthy except for the front wheel bearing 190d car the other day. It was the strongpoint besides the five speed manual. I am considering going back and offering 500.00 for the whole car. He dropped to eight hundred from a thousand easily.

I might have to buy a good lower milage 190 gas with a bad engine and drop the diesel package in. I really do not want to bring that fixer upper back to good shape. Good gas 190s are now going cheap enough the equation might work.

Re: Starting with no glow plugs

If it's 90f out (New England is in the midst of a heat wave), how fast should a healthy car start with no plugs? I guess I could answer this question myself by cranking my 85 over, but I'd like to hear from others to get a range.

Re: transmission

Trans shifts great and the fluid looks good - thanks for the tip there. It's better than the trans on the 82 right now- I'm going to transplant the whole thing and keep the 82s transmission as a spare.


If I purchase the car, I'm going to put the engine on a stand and do everything to it. Injectors, glow plugs, take off the manifold and clean, replace the usual suspect oil seals, rebuild lift pump, etc. All the stuff that's a pain with the engine in the car. Oh, and i think I'll paint everything and make it pretty to match the rest of the 82

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

You ask a lot out of a parts car. Trans is good. Engine runs good. You're going over it anyway once it is out. I never hold something for a person unless they have told me that they are enroute with cash. Then I'll wait until they have a chance to say yes/no. Waste a little more time and the car will be gone.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I know you're shopping for good engine, but to put the money in perspective I paid $500 for a parts car has a blown head... and drove it home that way blowing white. Subsequently, I've taken at least triple that value out in parts, easy, and still going. Most recently its vacuum pump (yesterday).

It has actually been one of the best return on investments I've made in ANYTHING lately, out-performing the stock market.

So helpful just to have around if you have the space. Also serves as the learning mule - using it to figure out how to get at a part or whatnot, I make my mistakes over there... then do it for real on my good car.

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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

I think you see the trend. I never leave a deposit or take a deposit. All it does for the most part is cause bad feelings. I'm guessing you are looking at 500-800 bucks and a 26 year old car. If it has what you want buy it. I always get a kick out of people wanting perfect for cheap. I had a lawn mower for sale and ran an add. Had a couple lookers come offer me half of what I was asking. I was very polite and told them if they only wanted to spend that much they should look at mowers listed for that much. Both of them wanted to steal it. A guy 100 miles away answered the add and said if it was a true add he would buy it. I delivered it and he never even started it. He new what he wanted from a lawn mower. I guess my point is if its a fair price and you need it what will make you walk away and what wont. Sounds like you are going to spend millions when you get the motor in your shop so what's the risk of a few hundred up front. Not picking on you I'm just saying fish or cut bait. In the long run you will find its more fun. Thanks

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83 300D 227,xxx miles, sold
86 300 SDL 130,000 miles, sold

It's not so much a quest for perfection or cheapness - I don't want to sink time into something that's not going to be a solid used motor. Time is my limiting factor right now.

Well I'm going tomorrow compression test kit in hand. I'm pretty sure ill end up with the car.


How much turbo shaft end play is acceptable? Side to side play?

The turbo did have some wiggle to it. But I do have a good spare turbo in my spare parts library.

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Remember to check the valve clearances on any given cylinder if lower compression than reasonable. Hope it's a good one.

Boat anchors have always been a dime a dozen. You kind of suspect a good engine with enough experience. Pretty much a feeling as you get it running.

In your neck of the woods there are many good engines in rusted out hulks. Same as my area north of you.

Cold start with no glow might be deficient from low fuel pressure in the injection pump base remember. When that is low the engine is not as ready to fire off when you start cranking. Also starter and/or batttery may not be the best.

All I would be looking for is decent compression across the board. Many other misc. things to list can inhibit easy starts.

Thanks guys. At the car and just did a valve adjustment, ready to do the comp test.

Charging the dead battery in the parts car as I type....

And the rear hard brake line blew in my 85.


What a day

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Well if it's not one thing it's another.

#1:~360psi
#2:~380psi
#3:~380psi
#4:~380psi
#5:~360psi

~3 degrees of chain stretch

Cam lobes looked good. Engine internals clean. All the precombustion chambers looked good. Mileage consistent injector dirtiness.

Compression readings with the HF comp tester through the injector holes. I know these readings are low due to the fact that the tester has more volume than an injector itself.

Im picking it up later this week :-)

Thanks to forum member JEBalles who helped me with the tests today. As a bonus he got to have a fun time being my passenger on a 60 mile drive on just the front brakes.

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

No worries!

Good job!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

DD as part of the refurb don't forget the oil filter housing gasket. I may attempt to do mine this weekend. Sure wish it was out of the car.

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81 300D Turbo 190K sold
83 300sd 319K best $500 I ever spent-daily driverw/ 2 tank WVO set up