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#16
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I have some alignment numbers wondering if they got it right...but it is very old from 02. The problem tire is front left I don't know how to read the numbers
I think the car sat unused for a long time. The front tire that is wearing weird does not sit straight. I will have to look at it again, but I think it leans one way or the other, it is a noticeable lean and I am sure it needs an alignment. I have driven cars out of alignment before, usually they pull left or right mine does not have much of a pull left or right Would that cause a wobble/sway? It just feels like the tire is loose Last edited by whunter; 08-23-2010 at 11:23 PM. Reason: spelling |
#17
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I have some repair history but nothing related to control arms
Motor mounts were replaced alignment in 02 $167 for a relay!!! $90 for plugs!!! $27 hood star!!! Brake pad sensors $46!!! crazy stuff Caliper hardware kit $71.62 2 rotors $162.00 mono valve 1999 heat works! valve adjustment lots of oil changes ahhhh Bushing kit part #123 586 06 24 need to look this up new shocks motor mounts + bushings this is an old invoice 02. Not sure how long the car sat tho will stabilizers links cause sway??? I recently replaced motor mount less than 2 weeks Looks like control unit was replaced, fan too according to this report needs rear stabilizer links |
#19
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Thanks Roy,
I was just reading about stabilizer links I am sure it needs an alignment this will keep me busy for a while ![]() |
#20
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Does anyone know if special tools are needed to adjust camber?
And where are the adjustments made? Are there specific specs for this? I am trying to have this done today and was told by the tire shop "special" MB tools were needed... From all the links I have read above it looks like something is screwed in or out to make the adjustment |
#21
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There's a special tool for wheel alignment that consists of a pointy end screw that locks the steering box. Camber is adjusted by eccentric bolts on the LCA like in most American cars of that vintage.
That statement is reason enough to have someone else do the work. Sixto 87 300D |
#22
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That guy did not get my business....
Can you explain in simple terms how to adjust that bolt...I have read until my eyes are falling out and it still sounds greek to me...I know it has to be more simple than I am understanding. |
#23
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The bolt has an offset washer firmly attached to it. The frame has parallel rails that just fit around the washer. As you turn the bolt head, the rails containing the washer force the shank of the bolt to move in a circle. The lower control arm into which the shank of the bolt is a snug fit likewise moves in a circle relative to the fram. You thus have a range of adjustment between the frame and the lower control arm.
Moving the inner pivot of the lower control arm further from the frame pushes out the lower end of the steering knuckle which pushes out the lower end of the wheel causing more negative camber (wheels splayed apart at the bottom). Here's what I mean to say in someone else's words - http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm Here's how a picture of what the words are trying to say - ![]() Sixto 87 300D Last edited by sixto; 09-05-2010 at 01:23 AM. |
#24
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"Moving the inner pivot of the lower control arm"
So by turning this bolt (eccentric) only, it makes the lower control arm move? Boy if this is the answer I was really making it more complicated than it really is....thanks for having soooo much patience with me...I know I can be really thick sometimes...I just have never done this before and could not wait at the tire place any longer and dont want to ruin the replacement tire Now at least I think I can get the tire closer to where it is supposed to sit and not wear it out so fast |
#25
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I would look for another shop rather than do it yourself. You can't think of camber, caster and toe as independent settings because suspension and steering geometry is such that modifying one usually affects the other two. If it weren't for tolerance ranges in the specs, alignment would require several iterations. If you adjust camber using a level gauge, for example, expect to affect caster.
Are you sure uneven tire wear wasn't caused by a fault in the wheel bearings or suspension components? Sixto 87 300D |
#26
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I took a closer look at it and was not able to even get the tools to break the bolt free. No room to work. The car really needs to be on a lift. I only wanted to try to get it close to where it was supposed to be so I did not wear out the new tire I put on it. One of the bushings looks worn out on the LCA the other end looks ok. Now that there is a tire with tread on it, the steering wheel is not straight, so I am going to take your advise and let someone else do it. Too much to factor in for a noob. But at least now I understand how it works!! Thanks everyone
Last edited by newtodiesel; 09-05-2010 at 11:13 PM. |
#27
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worn out front end
OK so here were the problems that were addressed....
Complete UCA assemblies Complete tie rod assemblies Center drag link steering damper I do not have to white knuckle it any more...over 30-40mph was scary. I needed 2 hands to steer...slowly got worse. Wore out 2 sets of front tires. All above mentioned parts were replaced by 79mercy, many many many thanks....he made it look easy. We did have to sawzall one of the UCA bolts, we went thru 2 rental tool kits #3 kit and none of the tools would work. A pickle fork finally got the last tie rod loose Pictures are of how bad the bushings were...they were so worn you could see where the bushing sleeves were rubbing the metal on the UCA, the rubber was totally shot... I can now do at least 60MPH...I'll get a little braver and go faster once I get my new tires an alignment, thanks again to 79mercy and this forum for helping me keep my car going. I think I'll keep it now!!! I even found out I have a huge bonus................LEATHER SEATS!!!!!.......I was going to replace them... ![]() I know.. looking for a battery tray too |
#28
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And BTW you guys really need to see 79mercy's car, talk about a nice car...he even let me drive it! Rides real nice, and has a kool idle control knob...maybe some day mine will be as nice as his...a little work..some wax and polish maybe
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#29
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Your welcome, Glad to hear your pleased with my work. The car really does drive much better after all the parts were replaced, im sure once you get a new set of front tires it will ride even better.
All non-turbos had the idle control knob, I don't remember if i mentioned that to you the other day...
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#30
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You sure did make it all look easy...'cept for that UCA bolt...
I tell ya..I'd love to ride around town in that...or maybe that black one we saw...I think somehow I'm gonna end up with another one... |
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