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#1
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Anybody else having problems measuring proper transmission fluid level?
I know this is a stupid issue, but I can't seem to accurately measure the amount of fluid that's in the transmission and I know how important it is NOT to overfill it.
I've recently serviced my 300SDL with new filter/fluid. Filled it up with 4 quarts, started it and slowly added another 3 quarts - shifted to R-N-D-N-R-P back and forth, went for a very gentle ride around neighborhood until it warmed up well and then parked the car on even surface while idling and kept adding fluid until I thought it reached top of the mark. I had trouble telling where I was at but I though I finally had it. Today, I measured it again with the car completely cold and it looks like it's way way over the mark - if anything, it should be under the MAX since it's cold. The trouble I'm having is that it's hard to tell because I can't accurately tell from the dipstick where the top of the fluid is... it's got wet spots along nearly its entire lenght so it's really hard for me to tell what the true level is... Any tips will be appreciated. James
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#2
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That said, my hot-cold readings are not in agreement with the spec. If it's at the "max" mark hot, it's 10mm below the "min" line when cold. The spec is 5mm below when cold. |
#3
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__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#4
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Mine is PIA to measure also. Looks like there is no easy way to get an accurate reading.
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#5
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The filling process calls for 'pre-topping' the transmission with the engine running until the fluid level is about 10mm below the min mark on the dipstick. The actual distance varies by year and model per the FSM. Then get the transmission fluid to operating temperature. This requires a proper 20 minute drive, not idling the engine, not an easy drive around the block. As a rule of thumb, fluid at operating temperature (~180*F) is too hot to hold but a quick touch won't burn you. If you can keep your fingers pinched on the wet tip of the dipstick with fluid at operating temperature, it's either not hot enough or you're a masochist. When you're sure the fluid is hot, check the fluid level and top off as necessary. You shouldn't need to add more than a cup of fluid if you got the cold pre-topping right.
Sixto 87 300D |
#6
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As soon as you pull the stick, you get fluid in the tube. You wipe, put the stick back in, ... the 2nd and 3rd time you have more fluid slowly running down the tube.
Patience is required.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#7
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Exactly... so I guess you're saying I have to get the reading on the first pull, eh?
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#8
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When it's good and hot, the fluid runs down the tube fairly quickly. I just pull the stick and wait a minute before I stick it back in for a check. Sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, not a perfect system. If you're going to try again, wait another minute or three, rapid re-checks have never yielded useful results in my experience.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#9
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This sloppy stick problem is common to most all automatics. I ALWAYS fill, let warm up, remove the stick for a few minutes and recheck it hot. Repeat as necessary. This seems to work pretty well. Good luck!
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Thanks, Mark in NC "Spark plugs?...We don't need no stinking spark plugs!" 1985 300SD "Der Silberne Schlitten" 420,000 mi Wish these were diesel: 2003 Ford Club Wagon 130,000 mi |
#10
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I don't know if this is the correct way to do it but this is what I have been doing for years. Engine running, pull and wipe stick,re-insert stick, remove stick and look for the lowest clean place on the stick. Look at both sides. There will be oil higher up on the stick, but ignore it. The lowest clean spot will be the actual level in the trans. Try it and see what it does and let us know.
Also, try this and let me know what you see. Engine off, check the oil, but when you put the stick back in, pull it out quickly. Look at the level. Now, do it again but leave the stick in for 10 seconds before pulling it back out. Do you see a difference? Paul
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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles) |
#11
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Quote:
__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#12
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Double checking...
I'm guessing that I'll need to be reasonably sure that the level is close to the proper mark before I run it for 20 mi?! What's the chance that I'll risk damaging the transmission while I'm trying to get it to the operating temp... right (because of overfill condition)?!
I'm just a little paranoid about it now...
__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#13
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Me too
I've been doing my own car work since I was 15. This has bothered me for years checking the level on auto trannies. I always pull the stick, wait a couple minutes, count 'em, wipe the stick, plunge it in, pull it quickly and try to see where it has a consistant amount of fluid on it. Look at both sides. This has always amazed me that they say level is so critical, but leaves so much to"intuition", to asses the proper level. If you have done it many times, you see it right away. One of my motorcycles had a nice sight glass. No Hot /Cold "estimation" stick, hehe. So don't feel alone, at some point you "get the feel". So don't forget, if you are teaching your wife how to do this, that MB has that latching dipstick, so you don't look like an idiot when you cannot even pull it out,hehhe
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85 300TD FED-Daily 84 300SD-Wife's 86 XJS-Sunday 66 GMC-Work- Given to my stepson 83 BMW Airhead- Given to my stepson |
#14
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My typical issue is that I get a different fluid height on one side than the other. Is the lower level truly the correct reading?
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#15
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Everytime I wipe the dipstick and pull it back out I seem to get a different result. It is very difficult to find a definite mark as so much fluid is on the filler tube walls.
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
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