I'm purchasing a 1985 300TD which is very straight and in excellent condition although it does have 330k miles. Through my research I know that these diesels are very reliable and enduring. Seller tells me everything is tip top (he and the car are out of state). I would much prefer to have my own mechanic look a car over but to find a 300td I really have to go out of state. Seller states that it was maintained by picky Audi mechanic, doesn't leak or smoke (well, excessively, anyway...) and all power accessories work. Yep, I even asked about the self-levelling rear suspension. 2800.00 seemed OK to me especially after seeing much worse go for way more on ebay...

Anyway, I'm new to diesel. Special starting instructions? Any special fuel additives? Regular or synthetic with 330k? Any special driving instructions? I live in Northern Wisconsin and plan on using the heater core...
Any advice is much appreciated.

Focus your attention on oil changing. Forget about the book saying 5,000 mile oil change intervals. Change it every 3,000 miles or six months whichever comes first. Even more often won't hurt anything. Also use an oil formulated specifically for diesel engines, the common ones are: Chevron Delo, Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac and Mobil Delvac One. These oils properly deal with soot which is not a consideration in a gasoline engine. Also change the filter at every oil change.

Your engine in these cars is pound for pound more expensive to rebuild than any other part of the car, so overmaintain it. With this many miles the engine is in it's twilight years. If you will keep the oil changed as I recommend, it will help you milk those last miles out of it.

Merry Christmas,
Change oil hot and change oil often,

Very good advice from Larry. Also worth mentioning, I think if I had a wagon with the self-leveling hydraulic system, I'd change out the hydraulic fluid soon after acquiring the car. Supposed to help make this system last longer.

Whenever I get a "new" used car, most of the fluids get changed fairly quickly - along with new filters when applicable. Transmission fluid, differential oil, motor oil almost immediately. Power steering fluid, brake fluid and coolant when the weather turns warm again. Oh, and test the coolant properties with one of those "floater" coolant testers (the big eyedropper things with the squeeze bulb) to make sure you have enough protection.

A well-maintained 300K+ miles diesel is nice and cheap because the average buyer just won't touch it, not knowing about diesel longevity. I think you're getting a good deal.

Ken300D

Thanks for your reply. If the seller states that compression checks out OK and no leaks, is there any reason the engine will not go another 100k before requiring a rebuild if I maintain correctly?
Does 2800.00 sound fair? I realize that's a real newbie question-
It was actually posted on ebay, here is the link:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=599123535

You're probably not going to be able to drive it back to Wisconsin with a torn CV boot, because the joint won't make it. Also, unless you have some success with a split boot repair, the boots are not repairable without special equipment. On my '82 300D, I ended up buying new axleshaft assemblies, quantity of two, for $570. When the boot ripped on mine it was less than 1000 miles before the joint started to fail. You don't know how long this one has been going on the ripped boot.

The car looks pretty nice in the pictures.

Because of the issue with the boot, maybe you can talk the price down?

My '82 300D has 315K on it, and runs strong. I felt putting the new axles on it was a good investment, and expect the car to last a long time.

Ken300D

I wouldn't bother with additives. These engines tend to be tighter and hold their compression better than other diesels I've had.

If you're completely new to diesel, I'd develop the tractor mentality rather than the go-cart mentality. They run and have power and go forever, but its different.....much better once you acquire the taste for it.

I paid $5k for mine with 200k miles on it and consider it well worth it. So far, the Michigan winter (mild this year) doesn't even cause it to stutter. Starts and runs awesome.


Don

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DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

Yep, it looks good that I'm buying this car. Seller agreed it was best to ship and not try driving home with the CV boot ripped. I tried to get him down just a little but he's stuck at 2800.00 and I think that's alright.
One more (stupid) question: I'm 6:4" and the only cars I've been comfortable in are those with height/ rake adjustable seats such as my 533i and the late 80's Volvo 740/760's. That means that the entire bottom of the seat can tilt so that your knees are higher than your rear...Seller tells me seat is not height adjustable but because rails themselves are raked the farther back you go the lower the back of the seat goes. Any tall people out there driving a 300td wagon and how is it?
Also: anybody out there swap out the stereo for a cd player and which one is an easy fit?

I couldn't tell from the pictures, but does it have a sunroof. My TD has one and it eats up some headroom. I also agree with the advice to chnage out all fluids and filters. This way you know when they were done last and thus establishing a base line for future maintenance.

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member